Official 380 Thread

I looked at the invoices and it was about $2k for the removal and rebuild and install of the trans. There was a bunch of other stuff on the invoice so I had to sort out all the other issues the PO had addressed.

They re engined and then did the transmissions and had a bunch of alignment work done and it was all good. Then they sold it...
 
amajamar said:
If the diesel boat checks out, that's great. If you do end up with 8.1's, don't think twice about it. Plenty of power and torque for this boat.
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I have loaded my boat (8.1's) up with 11 people for a sunset cruise and the boat popped right on plane with 3/4 tank of fuel.
 
LattitudeAdjustment said:
I have loaded my boat (8.1's) up with 11 people for a sunset cruise and the boat popped right on plane with 3/4 tank of fuel.
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I agree, I have the 7.4 horizons, had 10-11 people, full water and fuel. No issues with getting on plane.... the gas engines are plenty for a 380 DA
 
The previous owners spent $25k on factory rebuilt engines and install. Then they spent another $10k on vibration and transmission repairs. Then they sold it.

I just got the invoices as the sales guy lives near by and still had them in the file. Turns out they are the 7.4s, not the 8.1s. Too bad as I understand the 8.1s are about 35% better on fuel economy. Dunno why they put in the 454s when the 8.1s were out.

The install did not go well as there was a bunch of follow up work. It runs great now and we have no issues other than the start thing.

I need to change my signature....
 
Thanks for the info Bruce. It's nice to have that comfort factor when you are taking longer trips knowing that you have new engines. We are trying to decide do we re-power or sell and buy something newer. The boat market is crazy here right now.

Sorry to hear about the 8.1's... they may be a little better on fuel, but let's face it... if we are going to play in this game, we have to pay at the pump.

You may have less weight back there which is a good thing in my opinion. All the weight back there is something I never cared for with mid cabins boats . We had a new 1998 290 and it had twin I/O's... all the weight in the back. It never liked big choppy sea as we didn't have much weight up front. One trip we made from Clearwater to the Keys, I loaded a huge 200+ qt. cooler filled, 4 scuba tanks, scuba gear and weights all up in the front cabin. What a difference in the boat cutting through the seas.

Sorry I got off topic. I appreciate the info you shared! Hope you having a nice weekend.

Vince
 

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Hi anyone know the best way to run an audio cable 3.5mm from the Radio in the cabin to the Dash? I have the Dash panel out along with the radio. I was hoping to use the remote display wire and string but appears to be zip tied down. I also tried a tape measure but got hung up on something. Any help here would be great. Thanks.
 
tdb380Ray said:
Hi anyone know the best way to run an audio cable 3.5mm from the Radio in the cabin to the Dash? I have the Dash panel out along with the radio. I was hoping to use the remote display wire and string but appears to be zip tied down. I also tried a tape measure but got hung up on something. Any help here would be great. Thanks.
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If you remove the cabinet on the starboard side next to the helm seat, you should find the conduits that terminate behind the stereo. In fact, I'm fairly certain you will find the stereo remote control cable running through one of them and you can use it as a pull wire if you want.
 
amajamar said:
If you remove the cabinet on the starboard side next to the helm seat, you should find the conduits that terminate behind the stereo. In fact, I'm fairly certain you will find the stereo remote control cable running through one of them and you can use it as a pull wire if you want.
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If you do get to it would you mind posting some pictures on how you got to it and what the conduits look like it would be greatly appreciated!! Having my 1995 370 for about a year I have always been curious how to get from the helm to where the radio and old TV are mounted in the salon.
 
Roch Speiser said:
If you do get to it would you mind posting some pictures on how you got to it and what the conduits look like it would be greatly appreciated!! Having my 1995 370 for about a year I have always been curious how to get from the helm to where the radio and old TV are mounted in the salon.
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I'm not sure I have photos, and I don't have a 370, but fairly certain the concept is the same. My 310 was similar. Remove cabinet adjacent to the helm seat and you will probably find the conduits running up the hull on the starboard side.
 
Roch Speiser said:
If you do get to it would you mind posting some pictures on how you got to it and what the conduits look like it would be greatly appreciated!! Having my 1995 370 for about a year I have always been curious how to get from the helm to where the radio and old TV are mounted in the salon.
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when i removed the "cubby" on the starboard side of the helm, i found some of the flexible conduits, at least one was available...
 
You guys are awesome. I will work on it this weekend.

I found the one to the engine room under the dash, it had a pull wire in it. I am running a backbone to engine room for the Merc GW.
 
Figured I would share a little project with you all. I installed the converter and Axiom a year ago but had it on a U bracket on the side. It worked out well and managed the old autopilot great so now I am mounting it in the Dash. Since it was an arm and leg for the panel and I paid for cutouts, I went ahead and upgraded the VHF to Ray53 and the Tridata to the I50(integrates with old analog sensors).

At the same time I am going to run a 20 ft setalkng backbone to engine room and I converted the old clarion CD changer to accept 3.5 mm and installed a bluetooth gateway. I need to run the 3.5 form the radio to the helm for when I am out hanging behind the boat. Lots of upgrades and they are pulling the boat next week :(.

And the Rocker switches, what a pain! take lots of pictures the wiring is easy to mix up.
 

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tdb380Ray said:
Figured I would share a little project with you all. I installed the converter and Axiom a year ago but had it on a U bracket on the side. It worked out well and managed the old autopilot great so now I am mounting it in the Dash. Since it was an arm and leg for the panel and I paid for cutouts, I went ahead and upgraded the VHF to Ray53 and the Tridata to the I50(integrates with old analog sensors).

At the same time I am going to run a 20 ft setalkng backbone to engine room and I converted the old clarion CD changer to accept 3.5 mm and installed a bluetooth gateway. I need to run the 3.5 form the radio to the helm for when I am out hanging behind the boat. Lots of upgrades and they are pulling the boat next week :(.

And the Rocker switches, what a pain! take lots of pictures the wiring is easy to mix up.
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How did you convert the CD changer to accept a 3.5mm jack? I was just about to purchase a Fusion radio. I would like to do the same. Please post more pictures, I will be copying you this winter with the same upgrades!!! Haha. Looks AWSOME!!!
 
Haden said:
How did you convert the CD changer to accept a 3.5mm jack? I was just about to purchase a Fusion radio. I would like to do the same. Please post more pictures, I will be copying you this winter with the same upgrades!!! Haha. Looks AWSOME!!!
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Ha ha yeah, I did it a few years ago, and it worked awesome besides the blue tooth device too far away from where we hang out when we are at the marina. The concept is that you basically splice the cable that goes to the CD changer. two pin outs you put a toggle switch on which puts the radio into accessory mode and the remainder you wire into a RCA and then you use a rca to 3.5mm adapter for any Bluetooth audio receiver. There is a kit you can buy. Let me try to dig up the link.


EDIT, I cannot find the link but since I installed this seems that there has been innovation and the adapters are common place now. Here is one that I suspect would work. If it didn't you would likely have to open it up and modify the Pin Outs to work with clarion. The two wires will go to a toggle switch which puts the radio in accessory mode.

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Bluetooth-Adapter-Kenwood-Release/dp/B086DRYQK9
 
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Working on installing a bypass on the water heater. This past spring, about a week or 2 after commissioning for the season the outlet water hose from my heater came loose. After that, it seemed like the fitting was worn out from 20 years of disconnecting and reconnecting to bypass... replaced the fitting, good to go now....

so now I am adding the bypass like I had on my campers... the only question is what to do with the cold feeding the mixing valve.... pretty comfortable there is a check valve in the mixing valve so that water will not back fill into the water heater.... thinking I blow out the system with the water heater bypassed. The. With the cold to the water heater still closed, Close the bypass, and open the hot leaving the water heater. This will feed the air through the mixing valve and back through the hot to get that last little bit of water out....

I have no idea how the mixing valve functions, but when the previous owners winterized, it appears they just tied the in and out together, not accounting for the T feeding the mixing valve....

Here is a pic of the bypass so far....5A929A3C-23EF-4D64-B8C4-A2F7764DF683.jpeg
 
Chris-380 said:
Working on installing a bypass on the water heater. This past spring, about a week or 2 after commissioning for the season the outlet water hose from my heater came loose. After that, it seemed like the fitting was worn out from 20 years of disconnecting and reconnecting to bypass... replaced the fitting, good to go now....

so now I am adding the bypass like I had on my campers... the only question is what to do with the cold feeding the mixing valve.... pretty comfortable there is a check valve in the mixing valve so that water will not back fill into the water heater.... thinking I blow out the system with the water heater bypassed. The. With the cold to the water heater still closed, Close the bypass, and open the hot leaving the water heater. This will feed the air through the mixing valve and back through the hot to get that last little bit of water out....

I have no idea how the mixing valve functions, but when the previous owners winterized, it appears they just tied the in and out together, not accounting for the T feeding the mixing valve....

Here is a pic of the bypass so far....View attachment 93391
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Looks good
Where did you get the plastic Shark type fittings and what did you pay for them?
Have you had any leaks with them?
 
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