480 DB Owners Club

SeadawgVB said:
Kind of leaning towards the QSM engines (and associated years). I have a dockmate that has an earlier model with the 3196 motors and have learned a bit about the aftercooler issues. Also, If what I have gleaned from some posts on this thread and on the 460DA thread is true, the earlier years had balsa coring. I would guess that the 480SB upgraded to non-cored hulls about the same time the 460DAs did (2002?). I also like the look of the non-tucked upholstery on the newer models. (But that can be changed.)

When I bought my 360DA, I knew it wasn't my "last boat". In fact the Admiral and I called it our "interim boat", just to test the waters and the lifestyle. This boat we are considering it be our last boat. It seems pretty big to me.
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The QSM-11's also have heat issues. Check Tony's info at www.sbmar.com for details.
 
SeadawgVB said:
I don't quite understand the graphs, but I do understand the "BELOW 18.6 GPH at 2000 RPM and the rest will take care of itself".

https://www.sbmar.com/articles/propping-cummins-qsm11-to-prevent-exhaust-leaks/
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Here is some additional info: https://www.sbmar.com/articles/the-cummins-qsm11-marine-engine-story/

And this is from a thread I was in:

Hopefully you read and understood the Extremely Important concept in that article about the Exhaust manifold and turbo being “dry” meaning those components are not liquid cooled. Thus paragraph #4 indicates that you should aim to burn less than 20GPH per engine @2100 rpm regardless of the QSM model in the boat. Ignore Load% and Throttle %. Fuel burn at RPM is the goal.

To figure this out for any boat, you load the boat to its maximum operating load by filling the fuel tanks, water tanks and waste tanks and then load as much people and stuff on the boat as you feel you would ever have cruising. Take her out and plot the fuel burn at 50 rpm intervals starting at 1800 and continuing up to 2100. Plot those fuel burn numbers against the fuel burn numbers of the QSM 535 curve. The 535 curve is the ideal. Thus <20GPH @ 2100…….

For the 480 Sedan Bridge and its newer version the 52, they come from the factory over prop’d. Each boat will be unique in its running so you will need to pay very close attention to the fuel burn at sea trial. Once you get the burn numbers you can then determine how much prop pitch to remove so that you can get the ideal fuel burn.

I would not get wrapped up in trying to figure out how much horsepower you need, just run the boat and use the fuel flow electronics to determine what the current fuel flow is in that range and then we can help figure out how much pitch you need to remove. You can factor all of this into your offer if you like.

Generally speaking each inch of pitch you remove will move your fuel burn curve up the RPM range by ~150rpm. This is not a hard and fast rule but a good rule of thumb. As an example, I looked at a 2004 Sea Ray 480 Motor Yacht. QSM 11’s. The current owner indicated that he cruises at 26mph @ 2000RPM burning 42GPH. So that tells us that the boat is over prop’d. 42GPH total translates to 21GPH per engine @2000 RPM. Our goal is Less Than 20GPH @ 2100 RPM. By removing 1 inch of pitch we move that 21 GPH per engine up to ~2150RPM. As a conservative engineer I would remove another inch of pitch to cover extra load over time.

That will get the fuel burn below the goal of 20GPH per engine at 2100rpm. As you can read on this forum, there are a host of owners that do use the EGT and Boost readings to help them operate their boats as to minimize the amount of heat that is going out the exhaust. This is after they have dialed in the propeller pitch. Larry Backman posted an excellent post about running his boat and watching EGT and then speeding up or slowing down when things get too hot in any particular sea state. Conditions will vary, so too should your prudent operation.
 
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SeadawgVB said:
Kind of leaning towards the QSM engines (and associated years). I have a dockmate that has an earlier model with the 3196 motors and have learned a bit about the aftercooler issues. Also, If what I have gleaned from some posts on this thread and on the 460DA thread is true, the earlier years had balsa coring. I would guess that the 480SB upgraded to non-cored hulls about the same time the 460DAs did (2002?). I also like the look of the non-tucked upholstery on the newer models. (But that can be changed.)

When I bought my 360DA, I knew it wasn't my "last boat". In fact the Admiral and I called it our "interim boat", just to test the waters and the lifestyle. This boat we are considering it be our last boat. It seems pretty big to me.
Click to expand...
The QSM11 is as good an engine as any; in fact, I think the best choice for this power range and engine year. They are very clean burning engines and I have yet to see any significant soot on the back of the boat. There are some things that need to be done to get the EGT's in our applications down but factor that in. The maintenance interval to service the coolers is an expensive one so if you can find a good boat which that was recently done it would be a bonus....
 
The 480s are great boats. We've had our for at least 6-7 years now as well. We have all of the options which you are looking for, but we arent ready to sell yet...lol It took us 2.5 years to locate DiamondGirl and it was worth it.. We do have the hydraulic platform and bridge air. You'll also want the bridge door as it helps to quiet things when running as well as helps with heating and cooling.. best of luck with your search.
 
I need your advice. Can you recommend a brand/model inverter? I plan to install a 24v inverter using my bow thruster batteries (2x8D) to run the fridge and freezer when the genset is turned off.
 
Ranger Mike said:
I need your advice. Can you recommend a brand/model inverter? I plan to install a 24v inverter using my bow thruster batteries (2x8D) to run the fridge and freezer when the genset is turned off.
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Following the recommendation from another CSR member, I installed a Xantrex Freedom SW 3024. I changed the bow thruster batteries to (4)6 volt Lifeline batteries wired in series to create 24 volts. The entire 120 volt panel runs on the inverter. Works great and I can stay on inverter power for approx. 14-17 hours depending on demand.
 
I will be removing my washer and dryer this weekend for more storage. We do not use the unit since the dock has a nice laundry room. From what I understand, it has to come out in pieces, which is what I plan on doing. I will save the control board and motor if someone wants the parts. PM me if you are interested. The parts will be free and all you need to do is pay the shipping.

My disclaimer.....I will be in "Master Destruction Mode" while cutting and hacking during the removal process. The parts come with a two part warranty. If they break in half, the warranty kicks in and you get both pieces :)

Keith
 
I am in serious search mode for a 480 DB and have located 2 strong candidates. One of them, from the listing photos, will require a complete replacement of the flybridge canvas and isenglass. I've noted some posts about sources for new canvas but I'm interested to know the approximate replacement cost since it will be a negotiating factor for purchase. I'm estimating $10,000+ - close?

Having now visited a 480DB, we cannot wait for the upgrade from our 370DA... Bimini and beyond, here we come!
 
The crime scene said:
I will be removing my washer and dryer this weekend for more storage. We do not use the unit since the dock has a nice laundry room. From what I understand, it has to come out in pieces, which is what I plan on doing. I will save the control board and motor if someone wants the parts. PM me if you are interested. The parts will be free and all you need to do is pay the shipping.

My disclaimer.....I will be in "Master Destruction Mode" while cutting and hacking during the removal process. The parts come with a two part warranty. If they break in half, the warranty kicks in and you get both pieces :)

Keith
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If you take out the AC unit under the stairs, then you can take out the washer/dryer without doing a demo. It might also be faster than demo.
 
CLC3 said:
I am in serious search mode for a 480 DB and have located 2 strong candidates. One of them, from the listing photos, will require a complete replacement of the flybridge canvas and isenglass. I've noted some posts about sources for new canvas but I'm interested to know the approximate replacement cost since it will be a negotiating factor for purchase. I'm estimating $10,000+ - close?

Having now visited a 480DB, we cannot wait for the upgrade from our 370DA... Bimini and beyond, here we come!
Click to expand...

I've only gotten quotes for another full EZ2CY hard enclosure (around $14k) so I'd guess you'd be in the $8-10K range for rollable isinglass.
 
quality time said:
I've only gotten quotes for another full EZ2CY hard enclosure (around $14k) so I'd guess you'd be in the $8-10K range for rollable isinglass.
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I'd second that one the price range. I have the EZ2CY as well. I'd probably never even consider isinglass now.. EZ2CY is sooo much better..
 
Ranger Mike said:
I need your advice. Can you recommend a brand/model inverter? I plan to install a 24v inverter using my bow thruster batteries (2x8D) to run the fridge and freezer when the genset is turned off.
Click to expand...

I also have a Xantrex Freedom 3012 on my boat. I installed it with the Auto generator start(AGS) etc... Works pretty good. I put it off of dedicated golf cart batteries.
 
mquiet said:
If you take out the AC unit under the stairs, then you can take out the washer/dryer without doing a demo. It might also be faster than demo.
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Have you taken one out that way? I looked at it and it does not appear that it will fit out the hole due to a support beam. I may be wrong.

Keith
 
The crime scene said:
Have you taken one out that way? I looked at it and it does not appear that it will fit out the hole due to a support beam. I may be wrong.

Keith
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Keith I have not, but read about it on this forum. I had a buddy that tried to remove into the crew room and it was a mess.
 
Thanks for the replies on Isinglass replacement and recommendation for EZ2CY. A friend has a Viking with "Strataglas" which I assume is the acrylic material used by EZ2CY. The difference from Isenglass is amazing and, gulp, worth the incremental cost.
 
In January 2019, I replaced the three forward bridge panels with Makrolon and love it. They still look brand new and Makrolon has a five year warranty. The Strataglass I installed in 2016 lasted less than three years before it started to become glazed and had to be replaced.
 
steve4566 said:
In January 2019, I replaced the three forward bridge panels with Makrolon and love it. They still look brand new and Makrolon has a five year warranty. The Strataglass I installed in 2016 lasted less than three years before it started to become glazed and had to be replaced.
Click to expand...
Side topic but curious what you're using to clean the Makrolon?
 
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