Windlass problems slipping and line jamming 350 SLX

A

Anthony Lopreto

New Member
Aug 11, 2020
6
Boat Info
2014 Sea Ray 350 SLX
Engines
twin Mercruiser 8.2 w/Bravo III
I recently purchase a used 2014 350 SLX. I have been having horrible windlass issues. The windlass operated fine, but the anchor line slips on the gypsy and continues to bunch up where it drops into the anchor locker. I have a Quick DP2 512 with 1/2 inch anchor line and 20 feet of 1/4 inch chain (this is what the manual recommends). I already replaced the anchor line with new 3 strand 1/2 inch from West Marine, changed the anchor swivel where the chain connects to the anchor and replaces the tension arm on the windlass. But still, when there is very little tension on the line, the gypsy just spins. When it does catch and pulls the anchor line in, the line often bunches and jams at the hole where the line drops into the anchor locker. I suspect part of my problem is the design of the anchor locker. In 2019, Sea Ray put the anchor on top of the bow rather than under the bow like the earlier models. There just does not seem to be enough depth to the locker for the line to drop in. BTW, when it reaches the chain and I can get the splice through the hole, the chain come is just fine. The other problem I am having, as soon as the anchor line punches up, the 60 amp breaker pops and I have to reset it. Does anyone have any advice? This is not fun when it comes time to leave the beach and pull up anchor.
 
I had a similar problem with mine when it was new... not slipping but it would not feed down the hole. The dealer replaced the line under warranty but it didn't help. I would have to go up front, use the foot switches, and help feed the line in.

I went to all chain and have no problem now.
 
First welcome to CSR.

How old is the line and do you have a swivel between the line and the anchor?
 
I just bought new line from West Marine, so it is 1 week old. I also replaced the swivel between the anchor and the chain. The Anchor line braided directly to the chain because it passes through the windlass.
 
Anthony Lopreto said:
I just bought new line from West Marine, so it is 1 week old. I also replaced the swivel between the anchor and the chain. The Anchor line braided directly to the chain because it passes through the windlass.
Click to expand...

What kind of line did you buy from West Marine? It looks like your windlass calls for 3 strand polyester. They also specify a certain kind of splice though you say the splice moves through fine?

I found it interesting that Quick calls out the same size anchor line for all three available gypsy sizes, even when the change size varies. Maybe this is common...I really have no idea.

I went all-chain this year and have very much enjoyed not dealing with rope. I know it's not what you want to hear but it is surely the closest thing to a 100% solution you'll get. Even if you get that thing to work with rope this year, eventually you're pressure finger will fail. And eventually you won't be able to get parts. Going all chain almost feels inevitable. ha. :)
 
Sounds like the spring in the pressure finger may be the issue. If you put manual pressure on the finger does the line feed correctly?
 
Agree with both from above, clean the windless and make sure you purchased the correct size line
 
Anthony Lopreto said:
I recently purchase a used 2014 350 SLX. I have been having horrible windlass issues. The windlass operated fine, but the anchor line slips on the gypsy and continues to bunch up where it drops into the anchor locker. I have a Quick DP2 512 with 1/2 inch anchor line and 20 feet of 1/4 inch chain (this is what the manual recommends). I already replaced the anchor line with new 3 strand 1/2 inch from West Marine, changed the anchor swivel where the chain connects to the anchor and replaces the tension arm on the windlass. But still, when there is very little tension on the line, the gypsy just spins. When it does catch and pulls the anchor line in, the line often bunches and jams at the hole where the line drops into the anchor locker. I suspect part of my problem is the design of the anchor locker. In 2019, Sea Ray put the anchor on top of the bow rather than under the bow like the earlier models. There just does not seem to be enough depth to the locker for the line to drop in. BTW, when it reaches the chain and I can get the splice through the hole, the chain come is just fine. The other problem I am having, as soon as the anchor line punches up, the 60 amp breaker pops and I have to reset it. Does anyone have any advice? This is not fun when it comes time to leave the beach and pull up anchor.
Click to expand...

I'm with JimT on this one. I have a few questions though. Why did you need to replace the tension finger? Since we don't know your boat, how big/small/deep is your anchor locker? Where are you located/how deep is it in your normal anchoring and how much anchor line do you have now?
 
I went with 1/2 inch polyester 3 strand as the windlass manufacturer calls for. I change the tension finger because I could get it to feed somewhat better when I hold it in. But changing the finger did not help, it was not worn. I suspect I nee to go up an 1/8 inch on the line to 5/8, but then I will have more problems feeding it into the hole. On pre-2019 350 SLX's, Sea Ray mounted the anchor below the bow of the boat. Post-2019, they put the anchor on top of the bow. I suspect it was a design issue where there was not enough depth for the anchor line to drop into the anchor locker. I am going to order 1/4 inch galvanized chain.
 
Had this problem with my 310 when it was new, going all chain solved it completely. In terms of aggravation savings, its probably the best value relative to cost I've invested in this boat. And that includes sending the new chain back to Defender when they shorted me 20 feet.

We're on an inland lake so anchoring is daytime swimming only, but I also think all chain has definitely helped us get more hold in marginal anchoring situations (wind, short scope, etc).
 
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