340 SUNDANCER THREAD

Quick question for the braintrust...waste panel led display on my 02 340 was not lit at all before we pumped out after purchase. It was quite full with no indication of tank's level. Now it shows "empty" being lit up, so at least that works, however I would prefer if the 1/2 or 3/4 lamps worked...LOL. In your combined experiences do the LED's burn out necessitating panel replacement or is it a level sensor that is typically the issue? TIA
 
I repair the fresh water circuit boards all the time. Have never had an led go bad, usually the 4 transistors. Simple devices to test. Remove, short the color leads to ground, one at a time (not Red!)Red needs to be +12 and needs to go to a good ground.
 
Benjamin Gray said:
Quick question for the braintrust...waste panel led display on my 02 340 was not lit at all before we pumped out after purchase. It was quite full with no indication of tank's level. Now it shows "empty" being lit up, so at least that works, however I would prefer if the 1/2 or 3/4 lamps worked...LOL. In your combined experiences do the LED's burn out necessitating panel replacement or is it a level sensor that is typically the issue? TIA
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On the waste tank, typically you need to remove the float assembly (unscrew large threaded hub with wires) on top of the tank and clean the “stuff” off the floats. The “stuff” weighs the floats down and they won’t float when the level increases.... I bought a male/female connector and cut it into the assembly to make it easier to remove/install the float assembly
 
jim696 said:
I thought it was time that we start up a 340DA thread...Me and the wife started boating 3 years ago and fell in love with it. We where planning on moving up from our 23ft bowrider to a 340 last season but we had to hold off. We are planning to move up this season. We are looking at the 340 with the 8.1's, radar/chartplotter, spot light, front sun pad with s/s runners, under swim platform lighting and the fixed soft top. I'm on the fence with getting the generator. Any suggestions or comments would be great.
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I’ve had many boats with and without a generator... you will have a better world with one. Our recent new to us 340 has a Westerbeke. Low rpm 1800 5K a d is the quietest I’ve ever had. Good luck- great boats!
 
Probably should plan on removing/cleaning/inspecting/replacing the roller dogs on my sliding door (2002 340) Can someone send me a link? I know its been brought here many times.
 

Straight from my generator guy: If you have a generator, run the shit out of it, do NOT let it sit unused. Literally run it every time you run the boat.
 
Benjamin Gray said:
Quick question for the braintrust...waste panel led display on my 02 340 was not lit at all before we pumped out after purchase. It was quite full with no indication of tank's level. Now it shows "empty" being lit up, so at least that works, however I would prefer if the 1/2 or 3/4 lamps worked...LOL. In your combined experiences do the LED's burn out necessitating panel replacement or is it a level sensor that is typically the issue? TIA
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We've been looking at buying a 2001 340 Sundancer, but we have one issue and I'm curious if anyone else here has worked through something similar. There are 3 steps going down into the cabin, and there is quite a steep drop between the cockpit and the top step (or a steep rise if you're coming back out). The expanse between the top step and the cockpit is just great enough to make it difficult for my wife to get up onto the deck from the cabin without assistance.

Has anyone reworked the heights of these steps or replaced them with a set of 4 steps on this year and model Sundancer?

I've seen it done with the newer style "free-flowing" steps, but because these steps are anchored to the outside wall of the head, it would seem that you would have to use some type of veneer on the wall to cover the location of the original steps.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

340-Steps.jpg
 
Grec said:
We've been looking at buying a 2001 340 Sundancer, but we have one issue and I'm curious if anyone else here has worked through something similar. There are 3 steps going down into the cabin, and there is quite a steep drop between the cockpit and the top step (or a steep rise if you're coming back out). The expanse between the top step and the cockpit is just great enough to make it difficult for my wife to get up onto the deck from the cabin without assistance.

Has anyone reworked the heights of these steps or replaced them with a set of 4 steps on this year and model Sundancer?

I've seen it done with the newer style "free-flowing" steps, but because these steps are anchored to the outside wall of the head, it would seem that you would have to use some type of veneer on the wall to cover the location of the original steps.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

View attachment 94176
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If I recall correctly the tabs for those steps are welded to the upright. Might not be an easy modification?

One thought - you can add an inch or so to all the steps by covering them with some type of material, perhaps teak. Since that bottom step is likely closer to the floor than the top step is to the cockpit opening this might help make it more manageable overall. Just a thought.
 
Thanks. I wondered how the stairs were attached to the upright, but I didn't think of looking at the connection when we were inspecting the boat. Adding something thick to the top surface of the top step was my first thought too. That may be the easiest solution if I can gain enough height without increasing the distance to the next step too much. I need to get back to the boat to take some measurements.

We'll be disappointed if we can't come up with a viable solution, because we had been looking primarily at 310's when this boat showed up on the market and it appears to be a great boat at a very good price - and of course, once you look at a 340 - well you know the rest.
 
Grec said:
Thanks. I wondered how the stairs were attached to the upright, but I didn't think of looking at the connection when we were inspecting the boat. Adding something thick to the top surface of the top step was my first thought too. That may be the easiest solution if I can gain enough height without increasing the distance to the next step too much. I need to get back to the boat to take some measurements.

We'll be disappointed if we can't come up with a viable solution, because we had been looking primarily at 310's when this boat showed up on the market and it appears to be a great boat at a very good price - and of course, once you look at a 340 - well you know the rest.
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I
 
We have the same 2002 340 they are great boats, but that top step we got used to. Back down might be easier for her and the handle is sturdy too.
I will look at mine and let you know what the attachment points are besides the welded tabs if any. I think they just float off the bracket. The handle has visible bolts in the shower but not any others that I remember. So adding to the tread might work. I think possibly putting something under the tread and using longer bolts you can keep the original treads.
 
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