Bypass heater question

scoflaw said:
They still make the air chuck with the lever that locks onto the shrader valve threads, so no holding. When the water is done draining disconnect it. Simple stuff. Dial the compressor down before this event begins, nothing is going to over pressurize. Plenty of volume can pass through that valve.
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Ah, the 2 chucks I have are press-on. They don't lock.
 
Just making sure here, once I blow out the lines, i should disconnect the red and blue hoses and make a hose to connect them together. Then run the AF through. Correct? Is there a way to make sure the hose on the pressure relief valve has nothing in it other than taking the hose off?
Anything else I am missing for the hot water heater?
HotWaterHeater.jpg
 
I open the valve on the pressure relief valve. That’s about it for that. The hose is usually just a rubber hose, freezing won’t hurt it anymore than a garden hose freezing.
You could always just blow a little air through it from the through hull, the water will go back into the hw tank but will run out the open tank drain valve. Leave that tank drain open all winter.
 

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b_arrington said:
A typical multi-purpose shop-style compressor has a dial to adjust the pressure. Mine ranges from 0-125 psi. I keep it fairly low for this purpose, 25-30 psi to start. Once most of the water is out you can raise the pressure a bit. The higher volume of air will help flush our the water, but will less water in the lines (and an open valve) there's far less risk of damaging the plumbing. Don't leave the compressor set on high with the water outlets closed though.
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Did your BC have the Seagull filters on the ice maker and galley sink? If so, how well did the air pressure process work, or did you pull the filer elements first?
 
Shaps said:
Just making sure here, once I blow out the lines, i should disconnect the red and blue hoses and make a hose to connect them together. Then run the AF through. Correct? Is there a way to make sure the hose on the pressure relief valve has nothing in it other than taking the hose off?
Anything else I am missing for the hot water heater?View attachment 93413
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Yours has different fittings than our 280 and Sabre, but the process you described was what I do. I have the water tank drained, and after the the heater is by passed (and all four water filter elements removed) I put 3-4 gallons of antifreeze in the tank and use a hose attached to the wash down to fill traps, AC raw water cooling lines (reverse flow via throughulls). In the spring I found emptying the filter bodies and replacing elements reduces the amount of tainted water. I also don’t reconnect the heater until after the antifreeze has been flushed. I generally nuke the water tank with bleach a couple times in the spring anyways so residual antifreeze taste isn’t an issue.
 
3E34AC0D-248D-4066-B84E-5A2D20DD3A2C.jpeg
Just thinking out loud, maybe T n one cold to the other, eliminate the copper T.... then add something like this in the pic



villain style said:
Years past I would drain water tank. With valve open I would then connect air compressor to shore water inlet and blow out all faucets. When done I close heater drain valve.
Then i would add antifreeze thru strainer for engines. I never had antifreeze fill heater back up that I’m aware of.
Based on what you see do you see any issue with what I’m doing? And if I bypass cold and hot water lines which cold line based on what you see?
View attachment 93157
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Henry Boyd said:
Did your BC have the Seagull filters on the ice maker and galley sink? If so, how well did the air pressure process work, or did you pull the filer elements first?
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No, I had a single filter for the whole water system. I don’t recall if I pulled the element first. The air pressure process worked great.

I didn’t use any AF in the system. In part because my ice maker expressly forbade it, and part because I hate the residual taste.
 
this all seems way overcomplicated. Yesterday i put in the blowout valve ($8 amazon pic below) in the shore water fitting, and used my tire inflator / air compressor. opened each faucet cold/hot one at a time. and let the pump run, (after draining the fresh water tank). 15 mins total time, easiest method ever. when it was just blowing air and no water i was done. Left all faucets open to allow for air escape in event some water pocket needs to expand a little. in about a week i will run the compressor again for insurance just in case water settled in a line somewhere after i use the boat this weekend.
 

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Is your shower sump empty?
Also, what did you do for the heads and black water holding tank?
Still deciding whether to take this on or not.

Thanks
 
Pump out holding tank, put some antifreeze in fresh water tank. Fill toilet with antifreeze from tank, flush a couple of times. Vacuum shower sump then pour antifreeze down shower drain until pump activates...pour a little more down so some remains in sump.
 
marks737 said:
Pump out holding tank, put some antifreeze in fresh water tank. Fill toilet with antifreeze from tank, flush a couple of times. Vacuum shower sump then pour antifreeze down shower drain until pump activates...pour a little more down so some remains in sump.
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Thank you!
 
Another question about using air. If I use compressed air and open all hot and cold water faucets until no water comes out. Can I assume the hot water heater is empty or do I still need to drain?
 
my thinking is.... Whats the harm in opening the drain to make sure?
Also, it's been recommended to leave that drain open all winter
 
marks737 said:
Another question about using air. If I use compressed air and open all hot and cold water faucets until no water comes out. Can I assume the hot water heater is empty or do I still need to drain?
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You still need to drain, as the outlet from the water heater is (usually) situated at the top of the tank.
 
On this topic, I can’t drain my tank it’s old rusted and Petcock is frozen shut,but no matter I got water out. I need a new tank. So some place online called Fred’s has them cheap, like $100 less than anybody else cheap, but my heat exchanger fittings are on back and all they have is fittings on front. So thinking it don’t matter. Maybe I should eliminate the hoses going from thermo housing for that any way cause a 160 thermo really don’t heat the water anyway, so opinion s welcome.
 
Pirate Lady said:
On this topic, I can’t drain my tank it’s old rusted and Petcock is frozen shut,but no matter I got water out. I need a new tank. So some place online called Fred’s has them cheap, like $100 less than anybody else cheap, but my heat exchanger fittings are on back and all they have is fittings on front. So thinking it don’t matter. Maybe I should eliminate the hoses going from thermo housing for that any way cause a 160 thermo really don’t heat the water anyway, so opinion s welcome.
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I liked my previous boat, which had the water heater piped through the engine. Water was plenty hot, and seemed to stay hot for 12 hours....
 
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