Official 330 Express Cruiser / 340 Amberjack 1997-2003 Thread

I’m up here in Boston so once the weather starts breaking (late March) I’m going to put a zip door and get in there and start troubleshooting.. my gen runs at 3800rpms it’s pretty loud, I want to buy a rebuilt one that runs at 1800 rpms.. but if I can fix mine without taking it out of the boat I’ll do that..
 
Has anybody found the company that sells the sea deck pattern for the swim platform.
 
3800! Geeze.. what model do you have. Mine was a westerbeke 3.5 bcga. You barely heard it if you were in the engine room. Didn't hear it at all in the cabin or cockpit just heard the water coming out the exhaust
 
I found the bottom of the rabbit hole. I took a couple of screws out of the base of the stairs and the whole thing lifted out. NOW I’m doing that too. These things are really poorly made though. I’m thinking of redoing the treads in LVT to match the floor and recover the risers in the new carpet I got to match. I really don’t think I’m up for re-engineering the entire stair case and I do like and need the current functionality of the lifting center tread. Using carpet on the risers means I will only have 2 cuts in the LVT for function.

I would like to start this post by stating that I am a complete hack when compared to some of the craftsmen I have seen grace the pages of this forum! However, I am pretty proud of this work and hope the new flooring which matches the treads on this staircase will give the update we are seeking in the cabin. I cut the base for the permanent bed in the v berth area and the couch cushions are at the upholsterer. Struggling with which foam mattress to buy to cut up for the v berth. So many options and all state that fiberglass goes everywhere when you remove the fabric cover (but as a boater I’m used to that!). Hope everyone is getting some projects done this winter! Without further ado...
 

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The V-births on 2001 models and newer are permanent births which are great. That being said, they are an odd shape which forces a couple to sleep with their heads against the stb side of the bow. The designers did this to allow for some style to the birth (swoopy curves) and to allow room for stb side storage/mirror, counter, and drawers. This allows quite a large sleeping area, but the birth does get narrower towards the foot of the birth.

If I was doing a retro-fit it might be nice to have a full island type birth and worry less about the additional drawers or counter space.

jimmy: we tried to mock this up but even as a couple of short people the island berth configuration does not allow enough room with the sliding doors. I’m only 5’7” and we couldn’t make it work. Great thought! (Because I had the same thought.)
 
Dry fit the new floor this weekend. Need to glue down and cut for the hatch in the floor. Turns out my heat pump is shot. Boat came out of the salt so no surprise and it did last 22 years! Good thing it’s a long winter!
 

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Dry fit the new floor this weekend. Need to glue down and cut for the hatch in the floor. Turns out my heat pump is shot. Boat came out of the salt so no surprise and it did last 22 years! Good thing it’s a long winter!
Looks great !!What’s your plan for the trim?
 
Carpet meets the floor in most places. Cut a new HDPE for the trim under the head door (old wood was ROTTEN) and cut a strip of the LVT for the toe kick under the cabinetry for the galley. Step into the bed gets stair nose trim like the staircase. I bought the stair nose from Plas Teak after I ordered a sample of their product but the math on cost ($850!) caused me to select this product from HD instead ($200). A few spots will get a small black flexible trim I used on the cabin door opening earlier this summer. I went with Johnny corners for the floor hatch (saw on another thread somewhere).
 

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has anybody replaced their ice maker up in the cockpit with a fridge? I was just wondering what size I need to get. I would measure but the boat is shrink-wrapped.
 
I threw mine away and turned it into storage. Ordered a door and had to make a surround for it out of king starboard. It’s huge under there!
 
I got the door from boat outfitters and dug out the order. Unfortunately can’t remember if I ordered outside dimensions or cutout dimensions. Either way 19 1/4 x 15 1/8” is what I ordered. Cut out dimensions add 1”. Maybe that helps get you started. There is still room if you need to make the opening a little bigger.
 
has anybody replaced their ice maker up in the cockpit with a fridge? I was just wondering what size I need to get. I would measure but the boat is shrink-wrapped.

this



This is on my shortlist, but I haven’t yet justify the price tag yet. With a family of four on the boat for a long weekend, we need more space for food.
 
Carpet meets the floor in most places. Cut a new HDPE for the trim under the head door (old wood was ROTTEN) and cut a strip of the LVT for the toe kick under the cabinetry for the galley. Step into the bed gets stair nose trim like the staircase. I bought the stair nose from Plas Teak after I ordered a sample of their product but the math on cost ($850!) caused me to select this product from HD instead ($200). A few spots will get a small black flexible trim I used on the cabin door opening earlier this summer. I went with Johnny corners for the floor hatch (saw on another thread somewhere).

nice work!

I replaced the trim under my head door when I did my floor. I used a piece of white PVC trim from either Lowe’s or HD. If you go that route you may need to trim the bottom for a good fit AND a heat gun is your friend for making the bend around the rounded corner.
 
MLeon,

I went out to my garage and measured the ice maker. It’s currently out because all of the seats needed pulled this fall to get a transmission replaced (required engine pull).

The ice maker measures approximately 14.5” wide and 18.5” high. There is room on the boats to increase height for replacement with a refrigerator, but not much room to increase width. I’ve been looking at the smaller drawer type models. I’m certain I could make one fit without much hassle.

If you need exact measurements of the current cutout i can stop at boat sometime in the next couple weeks. I have a zip door in my shrink wrap.
 
MLeon,

I went out to my garage and measured the ice maker. It’s currently out because all of the seats needed pulled this fall to get a transmission replaced (required engine pull).

The ice maker measures approximately 14.5” wide and 18.5” high. There is room on the boats to increase height for replacement with a refrigerator, but not much room to increase width. I’ve been looking at the smaller drawer type models. I’m certain I could make one fit without much hassle.

If you need exact measurements of the current cutout i can stop at boat sometime in the next couple weeks. I have a zip door in my shrink wrap.

Thanks so much I was wondering if I cap off the water and remove the ice maker inside and make it a little freezer if that would work.
 
Thanks so much I was wondering if I cap off the water and remove the ice maker inside and make it a little freezer if that would work.

It works as freezer, but mine is only AC. I’ve used ours to store ice cream and popsicles for kids; and extra freezer space on occasions. Good when on shore power, but kinda useless when you leave dock unless you run genny a lot. I’m pretty sure the ice maker is integral, but it can be simply turned off.
 
Heat gun has been my best friend on this project!

nice work!

I replaced the trim under my head door when I did my floor. I used a piece of white PVC trim from either Lowe’s or HD. If you go that route you may need to trim the bottom for a good fit AND a heat gun is your friend for making the bend around the rounded corner.
 
Hello everyone, I'm new owner here. I am serious thinking how can i prevent the 'station wagon' effect ? Install such a long pipe closer to the water may help? Any ideas

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Hello everyone, I'm new owner here. I am serious thinking how can i prevent the 'station wagon' effect ? Install such a long pipe closer to the water may help? Any ideas

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If you look back in this thread I had posted something about this before I found a product that uses two stainless steel pipes that meet in the middle of the transom or below the waterline I never pulled the trigger on this one might still be interested , for the time being I find having the cabin door closed and the vent window open drastically reduces the station wagon effect if you must leave the cabin door open, open up the front hatch for the positive airflow pushing through the cabin all the way to the transom transom
 

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