Quicksilver Generator Problem, starts but dies in 3-5 sec

If its not overspeed (high freq), then its a safety, a bad board, or perhaps engine ignition related. You could disconnect all safety (pull #85 from the engine controller board, which is Terminal 12), or disconnect one at a time. Worst case, put a voltmeter on #85 and record video (phone/GoPro) and see if it grounds out just before the engine dies.. an analog voltmeter would work best to catch any momentary grounding, or disable Auto ranging on the digital meter.

How is the engine oil level, and filter?

If your confident that you dont need the safety sensors, pull #85. If it still dies, you can ‘hotwire’ the engine, by feeding it a constant 12v to the ignition components (terminals 9, 10, and 11 on engine controller, wire #14) - which basically takes the engine controller out of the mix, also bypasses the overspeed safety (which you’ve check anyway). To hotwire, pull 9, 10, 11 off the board and find a way to provide (and disconnect) power to them. These feed the fuel pump, fuel solenoid, choke module, and engine ignition. To start the gen, apply power to 9, 10, and 11 and then press Start switch. Engine will continue to run until you manually remove power from 9, 10, and 11. Engine controller is only used to power the starter motor - no safety, no overspeed, no shutdown. Suggest doing this without load. If genset still dies - its an engine thing. If it runs and runs, then its an engine controller thing.

My problem was the transistor bolt came loose, transistor overheated and became damaged, and was only providing ~6v on wire #14 (ignition) which wasnt enough to run. Thus my experience with hot wiring it. I ended up buying a brand new board (newer version) and have been good since.

Safety Sensors:

High Coolant Temp, greater than 240F

Low Oil Pressure, lower than 15psi

High Exhaust Temp, higher than 246-266F


Ignition related components-
Fuel pump (you just replaced)
Fuel solenoid on bottom of carb
Engine ignition items (cap/rotor/etc)

Good luck, and let us know what you find out next.
 
18487FE8-E41A-40D0-976B-946B587DD7B4.jpeg
If its not overspeed (high freq), then its a safety, a bad board, or perhaps engine ignition related. You could disconnect all safety (pull #85 from the engine controller board, which is Terminal 12), or disconnect one at a time. Worst case, put a voltmeter on #85 and record video (phone/GoPro) and see if it grounds out just before the engine dies.. an analog voltmeter would work best to catch any momentary grounding, or disable Auto ranging on the digital meter.

How is the engine oil level, and filter?

If your confident that you dont need the safety sensors, pull #85. If it still dies, you can ‘hotwire’ the engine, by feeding it a constant 12v to the ignition components (terminals 9, 10, and 11 on engine controller, wire #14) - which basically takes the engine controller out of the mix, also bypasses the overspeed safety (which you’ve check anyway). To hotwire, pull 9, 10, 11 off the board and find a way to provide (and disconnect) power to them. These feed the fuel pump, fuel solenoid, choke module, and engine ignition. To start the gen, apply power to 9, 10, and 11 and then press Start switch. Engine will continue to run until you manually remove power from 9, 10, and 11. Engine controller is only used to power the starter motor - no safety, no overspeed, no shutdown. Suggest doing this without load. If genset still dies - its an engine thing. If it runs and runs, then its an engine controller thing.

My problem was the transistor bolt came loose, transistor overheated and became damaged, and was only providing ~6v on wire #14 (ignition) which wasnt enough to run. Thus my experience with hot wiring it. I ended up buying a brand new board (newer version) and have been good since.

Safety Sensors:

High Coolant Temp, greater than 240F

Low Oil Pressure, lower than 15psi

High Exhaust Temp, higher than 246-266F


Ignition related components-
Fuel pump (you just replaced)
Fuel solenoid on bottom of carb
Engine ignition items (cap/rotor/etc)

Good luck, and let us know what you find out next.

Thanks again for all the guidance! So I disconnected the 12 wire----generator runs fine, never dies. So next step, I went to troubleshoot each safety sensor. Started by shooting with the infrared again, and made a discovery--I had been shooting the exhaust at several different points, but apparently missing one single hot spot (I'm guessing where the sensor is?) where it looks like the cap mates to the exchanger. Anyway, at that one point (and only that one point) the exhaust consistently registers between 230 and 245. So I'm guessing a small spike there is what trips the safety, at which point the engine shuts down but it's already cooled enough to immediately start right back up and run fine until the next 245+ spike. The exhaust on both sides of this "hot spot" stay around 180 or less; the coolant tank and lines stay around 150 or less, the raw water outlet stays right at 100 with GREAT volume (I took the raw water line off the pump inlet and backflushed with city water through the strainer and out the thru-hull a couple weeks ago), and both Hz and V stay constant 60.2 and 120.2 the entire time the genny runs now.

Does this mean the heat exchanger has bit the bullet, or can the genny exchangers be cleaned out through end caps like my motor exchangers? Or is this NOT an exchanger problem? I'm tempted to just use it with 12 disconnected and the safety bypassed for a trip this weekend, but don't want to do permanent damage. What can catastrophically fail if I use it this weekend and the exhaust temp at only that one spot runs too high for too long? Thanks again for working me through this learning experience!
 
$15 part - I would order a new one and see if that takes care of it. If issue still persists - then it may indeed be a true cooling issue - your right on the thresholds edge.

https://www.partsfortechs.com/asapcart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=918

As for the cooling/exhaust/heat exchanger - I cant help you there, havent had to deal with that yet.

As for disconnecting it, eh - given you run it for >1 hr at a time, I would be cautious. Any other way to monitor temp? Any option to slightly move the sensor to a slightly cooler spot (metal hose clamps to hold in place)? Goal would be to provide you some protection - given we dont know what the true problem is yet. Would hate to have a true heat issue that runs away on you while your driving the boat.
 
Hello all just checking in here on this thread. I have the QS 4.0 I'm trying to figure out as well. I started a Quicksilver generator group on Facebook if anybody want to join in. My unit currently outputs no AC power and is currently shutting down immediately after start up. I'm going to disconnect #85 for starters but I'm still trying to wrap my brain around what was mention above with injection +12 at the control board. When measuring windings resistance are we doing that at the wires at the terminal trip where they meet the boats power feed line? I have the manual printed out but can't find Part 1 anywhere. Part one contains the schematic which I found on a thread and down loaded but would be great to have the entire Part one section.
 
Here's the manual for the QS-4.0G, QS-6.5G, and QS-8.0G. For full disclosure - I just found it online, and aside from a quick skim - it appears to be valid. It includes the wiring schematic, and several pages of troubleshooting, including testing the Excitation and Power windings. I had to break it up into separate files due to CSR file size limitations.
 

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If you disconnect #85 and the engine still shuts down, then I would suggest trying to hot wire the engine. This in effect removes the Engine Controller.

When you press the START button - two things happen:

First, The Engine Controller provides 12v power to the following engine components
Wire #14 - Screw Terminal 9
Carb Fuel Solenoid
Choke Heating Strip​
Wire #14 - Screw Terminal10
Fuel Pump
Ignition Coil​
Wire #14 - Screw Terminal 11
Hour Meter
Low Voltage DC Convertor​

Second, The Engine Controller provides 12v power to the starter solenoid
Wire #56 - Screw Terminal 7
Starter Solenoid​

Once started, the Engine Controller monitors the 60hz frequency being generator by the Power Windings (Wire #11 and Wire #22) on Screw Terminals 5 & 6. If frequency falls out of spec, the Engine Controller stops providing 12v on Wire #14 and the engine shutdown.

Disconnecting #85 removes the Engine safety sensors.

Manually providing power to Wire #14 does three things:
(a) removes the frequency monitoring
(b) alleviates the Engine Controller from providing IGN to the engine
(c) ignores safety sensors Wire #85, given your hot wiring the engine​

To manually provide power to the engines IGN components:

PREP WORK
  • Turn off the battery switch for the Generator
  • Make sure AC power panel is on Shore power (NOT Generator)
  • Make sure Generator start/stop switch on your inside power panel is in the middle/run position
  • Label the wires connected to Screw Terminals 9, 10 (first wire), 10 (second wire), and 11.
  • Disconnect wires from Screw Terminals 9, 10, and 11
  • Using jumper wires (wires w/ alligator clips), connect all 4 wires together.
  • Using another jumper wire (with inline 10amp fuse), prepare to connect those 4 wires, to the positive side of the generator battery.
  • Reference attached picture for visual of how this works
ACTUAL HOT WIRE
  • Turn on battery switch for Generator
  • Connect your two jumper wires together, which provides +12v from the generator battery to the (4) Ignition wires.
  • You should hear click (fuel solenoid), hum (fuel pump), and the hour meter will click
  • Press the START button on the generator
  • Generator should start, and continue to run.
SHUTTING DOWN GENERATOR
  • Disconnect the two jumper wires - removing +12v from the IGN wires.

TESTING GENERATOR OUTPUT
Provided the engine starts and runs, you can now use a voltmeter and frequency meter to test the generator output. Using a multimeter, you can use Terminal Screws 5 and 6 to monitor the output of the generator

hotwire_qs7.5g.JPG
 
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Awesome thanks so much! Sorry for the late reply I never got an alert to this as it went to my junk folder! I have since fixed it! It turned out to be the voltage regulator. I've got her dialed into 60 HZ and she is purring it was so great to finally get this fixed. My biggest issue is now that I don't have a dip stick for the engine. Thanks for those bypass procedures in going to print them out and carry them on the boat. I'll have to check out those downloads and see if it has Part one. I have the entire binder on the Gen but missing part one thanks so much again!!
 
I am having the same issue with my 7.5 kw quicksilver. I am reading 2.6 volts on 11/22 and 33/44. I have gone through the troubleshooting steps from the manual and I am up to checking the brushes. I hope to do that this week. I tried markrsimon's hot wire and I kept the engine running! CaptMorgan, how did you determine that your voltage regulator was bad?
 

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