Big soft spot repair

Marc Rainaldo

Active Member
Apr 18, 2019
260
Netherlands
Boat Info
Sea Ray 500 DA 1994
Engines
Detroit diesel 6v92
When we did our own survey on our boat we noticed a soft spot around the windless and took that in our offer. Unfortunately after we transported the ship to Netherlands A lot of things suddenly broke. Finally, 1,5 year later, during the winter storage we had time to fix this soft spot. Almost forgot to tell that we spoke to many shiprepair shops what they would charge to fix this. We got offers between €4K an 7k and they all seemed not happy by doing this. As DIY guy I don’t get the right feeling by any of the spoken company’s that I started to do it myself.

speaking after the job I must say that it was a nice job but be aware, it isn’t a job that you do in short time. Omg you got to have patients.

My plan was to cut the top layer off, get rid of the rotten wood, build it up, place the topdeck back and repair the cuttingline.


The start:
Before we even start we faced on of the most difficult part of the proces. Were do you begin. How far did the rotten wood go? I knocked, pressed with weight etc. If you go to far maybe the top layer won’t let go. If you do less you have to saw another piece. As you can see the spot was very big. Every time we were docking the deck made noices. Almost we were afraid to walk on it.
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I bought from Dremel a small saw with a diamond saw blade. You can adjust the depth of the saw and it went pretty easy true the polyester.
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After sawing all around my world almost collapsed. I didn’t get the topdeck off. Yes around the windlass area it was loose but on the sides no movement at all. What was I thinking to do this job? Did I f...ed it up? Because I started the job o had to move on and took a long crowbar and eat a popeye spinach and made my self very angry. Around the edges, especially in the back corners the topdeck was very hard to loosen but I did it. I had to relax for couple minutes because all my energy was gone.
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Arghh all was so wet, almost unbelievable.
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After cleaning the most I let it dry for couple days.

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You can see on the picture above there are 2 slots. These slots contained 2 support beams that were completely gone. Unfortunately the support beams went all the way to the bow. I pressed on the polyester on the pulpit area and it felt good so I decided to leave that. With a screwdriver I scratched most wet wood out as far i could reach.

The products I gonna use are epoxy and cotton fiber filler and cotton mats.
The cottonfiber you add in the epoxy and makes the epoxy thicker and make it better attach.

I made 2 new hard wooden support beams. In the slots I poured the epoxymix and put the beams in.
From inside the boat i taped every hole and then from above I put a thin layer epoxy to make the holes “waterproof’. In the next fase when we glue new layers the epoxy won’t leak true that holes and mess up the anchor compartment.
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All saw sides I scratched as far as I could reach as many wet wood out. The epoxymix I used for the beams I added some more cottonfiber to make the mix even thicker. This mix I use in the spaces around the saw sides.
On the picture above it’s a little hard to see but on the left and right side there was an wooden part that I couldn’t remove and that part was good. So problem was now that we face different thickness to fill. For now I let dry this for 2 days because want the support beams to hard good.

Meanwhile at home I use a grinder with sandpaper to remove all wood from the back of the topdeck.
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On the right side on the picture above you see a missing part. That happened with my Popeye action. That part was not rotten and tore apart.

As mentioned before we faced different thickness to fill. At my local polyester shop they have pvc matts. Very nice material and whenever in the future there will come water from the windless it won’t rot. Problem is that the thinnest thickness is 1cm. The balsa wood that was used originally was 2 cm thick. Because we use a couple layers of epoxy mix I chooses for the pvc matt with a thickness of 1.5cm. For the thinner parts I use multiplex wood 0.7cm thick.
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As you can see on picture above the pvc matt is build up with small pieces. The deck is curved so it will fits perfectly (I hope lol).

I cut everything in perfect shape (wood and the pvc).

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It’s time to make a new epoxy mix with cottonfiber. I want a thick mix but not to thick, it has to flow. A bit like yogurt. With a wide putty knife my wife ( I don’t see 3D) spread out the epoxy mix and we lay the wood and pvc on their place. Now Squeeze a bit so that the epoxy mix is coming out a bit on the sides. Not to much because you don’t want the epoxy mix pressed out. Also important is that you level everything as good as possible.
 
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I let everything dry for 2 days.
Time to make a new epoxy mix with cottonfiber. I made the same thickness as the last time. Yogurt thickness.
This time we put a layer on it to fill every gap.
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Forgot to mention that before adding new mix I sanded everything and cleaned it with aceton. Every time again!!!

It’s time to put the top deck on his place. First make a new epoxy mix with cottonfiber. This time a bit thicker then yogurt. We want to level the topdeck exactly on the sides.

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I put some wood on for weight. Not to long and not to heavy because else the epoxy mix will be squeezed out.
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After again 2 days we were very happy with the result and the level was very very good and we can walk again on the deck. We glued everything together and the hardness is very good. But we ain’t ready. The topdeck fiber that we took out has to attach the other topdeck. I took the grinder and grind from both sides around 2 cm (4cm total) true the topcoat till we see the polyester. This part is very messy and we had to build a tent. Else all the boats in the storage were full of polyester dust.
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At this point I laminate the topdeck parts to each other with epoxy and cottonfiber strokes (not the same as the cottonfiber filler).


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Several cottonfiber strokes have to be placed but not to high because the next fase is adding a topcoat.

From the edge of a part from the topdeck i took a small part off and brought that to a coating shop to make me a perfect color matching topcoat. Unfortunately the shop was not that fast by processing that so we couldn’t proceed. I toke that time to saw the holes from the windlass and installed a pair of new Maxwell footswitches and a new hatch.
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finally the topcoat was ready. This time we have to put the topcoat on that extend the level of the deck.
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The problem was that with grinding sometime you go a bit deeper and theirfore you have to put more topcoat on.
The topcoat we used is kind of thick and won’t flow out at all. Very difficult to apply. When you put your brush in it again you have an dent. Basically a nice job for misses.
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after every topcoat layer we wait a day and then use a flat sander. And a lot of sanding by hand. These parts I have to do :(

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I think we added 5 layers topcoat in 5 days and sanded it everytime. I use grain 80 at these points
 

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And after sanding and sanding finally you get result. Yessss
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above picture is the topcoat. Had to put hardener on weight
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Now that the level is oké we stop with grain 80 and go smoother and smoother with the sandpaper. At the last parts I use wed sandpaper 400-600-1000-1500.

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Finally it’s ready. The level of the removed topdeck matches the old deck perfectly. The rest of the deck is dirty and will clean it when it’s in the water. Then polish and job well done.
The areas that didn’t have the antislip are a bit wider but I think nobody will noticed. When we are back in the water and done the cleaning/polishing job I will make some pictures.

looking back again it was a long long long job but now very satisfied. The soft spot is gone. We are very very happy.

For those that want to fix their soft spot I hope i gave you some idea what you can expect during the job. Definitely not a 2 day job hahaha. Good luck all.
 
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Great job. Fiberglass work is never quick and always a bigger job than you think it’ll be.

your gelcoat match is awesome. That is really hard to do
 
Great, Great job! Did you watch any of Mads refit video's? Reminds me of his work. Both of you do impeccable work. Again, Very nice job. GOD speed, JC
 
As someone who's doing the same thing, excellent job. I am going in from the side, hopefully my results will be as nice.
 
Great, Great job! Did you watch any of Mads refit video's? Reminds me of his work. Both of you do impeccable work. Again, Very nice job. GOD speed, JC
Didn’t watched Mads refit videos, will check them out.
Basically I am I guy that starts doing. I went to the local polyester shop and asked them what products i needed. The owner gave me great tips and stood me by every step of the process. Learned a lot with this job including gelcoat repairs. All my boating live I always struggled with repairs. During this job I also repaired some scratches with products the owner advised me and all repairs are invisible repaired. Biggest and most difficult problem is making the right color. With that process, the shop gave me great advise and the right pigments for making the colors I needed.
Then with the right products it’s pretty simple. First I was afraid to do such a small repair job and now it’s like cooking an egg. And not to forget, one of the important thing is having patients
 
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As someone who's doing the same thing, excellent job. I am going in from the side, hopefully my results will be as nice.
You are going in from the side? What you mean by that? Are you gonna post your results? Looking forward to see your progress
 
The detail of the work is as good as the quality of work you have did on this repair, great job! Thank you for sharing all this with the forum
 
And after sanding and sanding finally you get result. Yessss ...
Finally it’s ready. The level of the removed topdeck matches the old deck perfectly. The rest of the deck is dirty and will clean it when it’s in the water. Then polish and job well done... We are very very happy...
You are an artist, Sir! That is a huge job to take on but you got it done, in professional style. Kudos!
 

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