Parker Skinner Fuel Solenoid Manual Overide

thanks
 
Try to search out Parker Skinner (Grainger was a surprise) showing 1/4 NPT inlets and outlets, knurled knob bypass, 12VDC, constant duty. All of your existing connections should work. Mine are hard wired these days, no plug connectors, so prepare for that if you are good at crimp/soldering/shrinking, or get someone to do it. I found no polarity on the leads, red to black, black to black, either one.
 
Thanks
 
Is that a carb engine or fuel injected? If carb, that fuel evaporates anyways, and priming is more important. Us Westerbekers deal with the fuel pump failing or the fuel shut off solenoid on the carb body (does what the Parker Skinner does, just right at the engine) all the time.

I have a Westerbeke genny and have a bad fuel solenoid. I have manually put it in by-pass but still can't get fuel to the genny. I'm guessing I need to prime manually, or might I have a bad fuel pump also???? Thanks for any help you can porvide!
 
could be a bunch of stuff. I'd disconnect the fuel line after the fuel pump, push the bypass switch and see if fuel comes out of the outlet.
The fuel pumps hate ethanol. If you have any air leaks in the fuel circuit, that will hinder operation. If the fuel shutoff solenoid on the engine is not getting power, or has given up, it will prevent fuel from getting to the carb.
Now, for the real questions. Which Westerbeke? Carb or Fuel Injected?
 
could be a bunch of stuff. I'd disconnect the fuel line after the fuel pump, push the bypass switch and see if fuel comes out of the outlet.
The fuel pumps hate ethanol. If you have any air leaks in the fuel circuit, that will hinder operation. If the fuel shutoff solenoid on the engine is not getting power, or has given up, it will prevent fuel from getting to the carb.
Now, for the real questions. Which Westerbeke? Carb or Fuel Injected?

I have the 4.5 Kw Gas carb genny. I am convinced it is my fuel lift pump and have ordered a replacement. There was no fuel in the line from the tank through the water/ gas separator, down to the generator. I by-passed the solenoid and cranked the genny for quite a while then checked the lines and still no gas in them.
 
I have a Westerbeke genny and have a bad fuel solenoid. I have manually put it in by-pass but still can't get fuel to the genny. I'm guessing I need to prime manually, or might I have a bad fuel pump also???? Thanks for any help you can por
my kohler had a electronic govenor auctuator, it was sticking and caused the same issues u are having. basically it opens the throttle plate at the start up.
 
I have the 4.5 Kw Gas carb genny. I am convinced it is my fuel lift pump and have ordered a replacement. There was no fuel in the line from the tank through the water/ gas separator, down to the generator. I by-passed the solenoid and cranked the genny for quite a while then checked the lines and still no gas in them.
You are on the right track. Facet pump. I'm on my 5th or so in 20 years. BTW this does not mean your solenoid is bad. You just took it out of the equation.
 
Guys any idea why is my safety fuel valve not getting any power? I was following the cable and it's going to the fuel pump and than keep going somewhere..any fuse or relay? Mercruiser 496 mag. Thank you.
 
Does this item look to be a replacement for the OEM valve?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00APDNPXG

U.S. Solid - 1/4" NPT Brass Electric Solenoid Valve 12VDC Normally Closed

$21.99 ea.
The only thing different is it doesn't look to have a manual bypass.

Only reason I ask is because all three of mine are looking like this after 20 years. I assume they are still functional, but doesn't give me a warm feeling.

fuelValve.jpg
 
not intended to be energized continuously for more than 8 hours. This can lead to burnout of the coil, and malfunctioning of the valve

don't accidently leave your ignition switch in the run position (like I've done a hundred times)
 
not intended to be energized continuously for more than 8 hours. This can lead to burnout of the coil, and malfunctioning of the valve

don't accidently leave your ignition switch in the run position (like I've done a hundred times)
I like the FLIR pic in the description... That's just great - a thing designed (well, supposedly) to carry a higly explosive fluid is overheating ;)

I dunno, Gunn - that whole ad screams made in China to me (and not in the good way). When it comes to things like this, I tend to go with tried and true - especially when safety is involved. The OEM valve is VERY much tried and true... heck, it's lasted a solid 20 years in your boat and is still working. I'd say that merits getting the exact same thing again.

"Only thing different"... there's probably a lot more that's different that you can't readily see.
 

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