Shaft seals

Riptide III

Riptide III

3D
Dec 8, 2007
1,139
Dartmouth MA
Boat Info
1997 Sea Ray 400DA
Cat 3116 TA
1994 Sea Ray Laguna CC 250 Tohatsu
Engines
:
I replaced the tides seals on the port side when I removed the engine. Now the starboard seal is dripping. Can I leave the coupler attached to the transmission? It seams easier to remove the shaft nut and use a puller to push/ break the shaft free then slide it down. It’s been a while am I missing something??
 
Riptide III said:
I replaced the tides seals on the port side when I removed the engine. Now the starboard seal is dripping. Can I leave the coupler attached to the transmission? It seams easier to remove the shaft nut and use a puller to push/ break the shaft free then slide it down. It’s been a while am I missing something??
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that would be fine as long as the shaft key doesn’t hang up somewhere. It’s pretty tight going through the void in the transmission but I think the key would clear

that being said the easiest part of ours was taking those nuts and bolts out and separating the couplers. The big nut broke loose easy enough, getting the shaft coupler off the shaft was a PIA
 
Strecker25 said:
that would be fine as long as the shaft key doesn’t hang up somewhere. It’s pretty tight going through the void in the transmission but I think the key would clear

that being said the easiest part of ours was taking those nuts and bolts out and separating the couplers. The big nut broke loose easy enough, getting the shaft coupler off the shaft was a PIA
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It was a PIA on my port engine. Eventually I had to enlist the services of the yard to use a hydraulic puller to separate the two.
Am I correct in assuming that if I unbolt the coupler, unbolt the shaft and have the yard use the hydraulic puller to separate the two, no alignment should be necessary since the engine mounts were not moved? Just slide the shaft and key into the coupler install the nut, and bolt the couplers together or is there alignment issues between couplers?
 
Riptide III said:
It was a PIA on my port engine. Eventually I had to enlist the services of the yard to use a hydraulic puller to separate the two.
Am I correct in assuming that if I unbolt the coupler, unbolt the shaft and have the yard use the hydraulic puller to separate the two, no alignment should be necessary since the engine mounts were not moved? Just slide the shaft and key into the coupler install the nut, and bolt the couplers together or is there alignment issues between couplers?
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You won’t affect alignment doing it that way. As long as the strut and engine stay in the same place your alignment will remain the same. I’d spot check it once back in the water to be sure, especially if it hasn’t been checked in a while, but small adjustments could be made in the water if necessary.

when you have the couplers apart clean up the mating surfaces with some scotch brite or something. Mine had some crap on them
 
Suggest that you mark the coupler/shaft/trans, so when you reassemble things they are as close to same as when you took it apart. Sometime rotating the shaft/coupler will effect the alignment.

You may also need new set screws and locking/seizing wire.

+1 on checking the alignment given your assuming its okay today.
 
markrsimon said:
Suggest that you mark the coupler/shaft/trans, so when you reassemble things they are as close to same as when you took it apart. Sometime rotating the shaft/coupler will effect the alignment.

You may also need new set screws and locking/seizing wire.

+1 on checking the alignment given your assuming its okay today.
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I have never seen set screws and locking wire on the couplers. What are you referring to please?
 
Are you talking about removing the nut that holds the shaft to the coupler and then re-attaching the coupler to the transmission flange and using a slide hammer on the prop end to break it free?
 
044A8D48-C339-49E6-B44E-232008E730FE.jpeg
05A4546E-4C4B-486C-8219-9A4741677203.jpeg
Like this ?
 
Riptide has the same setup as I do, V-drive with tapered and keyed shaft and a large retaining nut on the shaft coupler. Those photos look like a straight drive, different configuration for our boats.

no set screws or wires on my 2002. Shaft coupler with 6 nuts/bolts that hold it to the transmission flange. Large retaining nut on the shaft, and a key.

good advice on marking the two flanges. Ours have punched holes from SR showing where they mate up. You should check alignment in all orientations though. @techmitch has a great article on it
 
Strecker25 said:
Riptide has the same setup as I do, V-drive with tapered and keyed shaft and a large retaining nut on the shaft coupler. Those photos look like a straight drive, different configuration for our boats.

no set screws or wires on my 2002. Shaft coupler with 6 nuts/bolts that hold it to the transmission flange. Large retaining nut on the shaft, and a key.

good advice on marking the two flanges. Ours have punched holes from SR showing where they mate up. You should check alignment in all orientations though. @techmitch has a great article on it
Click to expand...
Riptide III said:
I have never seen set screws and locking wire on the couplers. What are you referring to please?
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joeyleggz said:
View attachment 103238 View attachment 103239 Like this ?
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http://www.marinegears.com/pdf/GetInLine.pdf
 
Due to the limited space forward of the coupler, we had to use a hydraulic puller from the boatyard for the port side. can I instead use a slide hammer from outside? My initial thought is transmission damage on bearings and such. Will there be enough force from the slide hammer to do harm? Am I overthinking that?
 
Riptide III said:
Due to the limited space forward of the coupler, we had to use a hydraulic puller from the boatyard for the port side. can I instead use a slide hammer from outside? My initial thought is transmission damage on bearings and such. Will there be enough force from the slide hammer to do harm? Am I overthinking that?
Click to expand...

I don’t know, I ran into the same thing. I used coupler removal plates, hydraulic press, pb blaster, etc. Nothing worked

finally I went to autozone and rented a 5lb slide hammer. I put the large prop nut on the shaft, wrapped the threads in tape, and used the included 3 “fingers” in the kit to grasp the nut from the outside. At that point the couplers were joined and tight but the retaining nut was off

a single slide of the 5lb hammer released it. I was worried about damage as well and if I had to hit it more than once I would have stopped but I think it was the shock to the taper that released it more than the pressure.

My rather unscientific justification was that folks hit all sorts of crap in the water and destroy props, struts, shafts, and somehow the transmission usually comes out ok. Our boat weighs north of 30k lbs, so the trans has to at least have a fair amount of heft for that task. I was also worried the yard might not be as gentle in their persuasion and was more comfortable just doing it myself
 
Strecker25 said:
I don’t know, I ran into the same thing. I used coupler removal plates, hydraulic press, pb blaster, etc. Nothing worked

finally I went to autozone and rented a 5lb slide hammer. I put the large prop nut on the shaft, wrapped the threads in tape, and used the included 3 “fingers” in the kit to grasp the nut from the outside. At that point the couplers were joined and tight but the retaining nut was off

a single slide of the 5lb hammer released it. I was worried about damage as well and if I had to hit it more than once I would have stopped but I think it was the shock to the taper that released it more than the pressure.

My rather unscientific justification was that folks hit all sorts of crap in the water and destroy props, struts, shafts, and somehow the transmission usually comes out ok. Our boat weighs north of 30k lbs, so the trans has to at least have a fair amount of heft for that task. I was also worried the yard might not be as gentle in their persuasion and was more comfortable just doing it myself
Click to expand...

great info! Did you eventually separate the couplers?
 
Riptide III said:
great info! Did you eventually separate the couplers?
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oh yeah, as soon as the shaft dropped I pulled the coupler. Those 6 nuts come off easy

putting it back together I pushed the shaft up through the trans and then installed the key and coupler before bringing them back together
 
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