The Official 450 Express Bridge Owners Club

I am planning on putting a seperate self-contained A/C up top. Originally, I had planned on putting it in the space port and aft of the trash can.

After some time, I have shifted my thoughts and plan on putting under the seat just starboard of helm. My thought on the change is that with the ice maker already under the steering wheel that is enough excess heat in that space (I think it killed my autopilot computer, since replaced).

I am trying to decide between an 8k and 10K unit, knowing that really the cool air is only going to blow on folks and not drop the temp up top. I do also want it for heat for Christmas parades and other "winter" excursions in Northwest Florida.

I am thinking two small vents for the helmsman, a vent for the forward starboard seat, and vents blowing aft towards the big couch across the aft of the bridge. Maybe, a small vent to cool under the helm to save electronics.

As hot as it gets here, I can't imagine "stealing" from an 8k BTU mid-ship is going to give the relief required for a full day hanging out on the bridge. Other flybridge boats have hard windshields and other ways to allow folks to close off the bridge, not my boat. It is going to be about airflow to blow cold air on people giving some respite from heat/humidity

Going to run cooling water from the manifold in the aft state room up (yes, will increase pump size), and then back down to the "main drain" where the salon A/C dumps cooling water. The cooling feed and return all will go through the starboard area behind the washer dryer (3 SR model). Condensate will go out the helm sink drain which shares the washer/dryer drain.
As a point of reference, my boat has a 27K BTU unit on the bridge; in the central Florida summer it doesn't do really anything but chisel it from 120 to 95 degrees. It has two large diffusers that blow from the helm forward and three round adjustable ones blowing towards the seats at the helm. Just my experience and the 52DB's bridge is quite a bit larger but I'm thinking you are wasting money on those small AC units.
 
As a point of reference, my boat has a 27K BTU unit on the bridge; in the central Florida summer it doesn't do really anything but chisel it from 120 to 95 degrees. It has two large diffusers that blow from the helm forward and three round adjustable ones blowing towards the seats at the helm. Just my experience and the 52DB's bridge is quite a bit larger but I'm thinking you are wasting money on those small AC units.

@ttmott thank you for the input. Have sea-trialed a similar bridge to yours on a Cruisers 497 when we were looking and looked at a Sea Ray 560 SB. A much different bridge feel than the 450. The 450 has A LOT more airflow. She stays comfortable on plane in the dead of summer without A/C. My wife gets annoyed in no wake zones or if we are stationary. I'm looking to just keep cool air moving at low speed, and for some heat during the winter. Know without the real windshields, hard top, bridge door that heat isn't going to do anything for me if we go fast, but Christmas parade. The other plus for a smaller unit is that it could swap into one of my other stateroom units as a backup.

If it doesn't work, I have a back-up state room A/C and I if I ever have to sell I can say I have bridge A/C...lol.
 
I agree my buddy in the slip next to me has a 2000 38 SR Aft Cabin they do look similiar but I believe slightly shorter and installed inverted as I recall.

Perhaps the larger aft cabins are the same. Below is a pic of the 2001 420 AC, looks spot on

View attachment 113760

Searay 2001 460 Express looks a bit different

View attachment 113759
420 looks very similar. 460 even better. If I had an engineering drawing, might be possible to fabricate with SS. Appreciate the remarks in thread re. 3D scanning/printing. Salvage parts is another approach I've been hunting.
 
Jack,
Normally the vents are held in with 8-10 screws and caulking. Maybe check with neighbor boat to confirm caulking vs. glue.
I am pulling my boat this winter, probably in January or February for bottom paint, underwater lights and to repair a small leak with the trim tabs. I can pull my vents then and see if can have them 3D scanned for you if you haven’t found a replacement by then.
Tks for offer. At very least, suggest close inspection of the vent "inserts" or covers for their adhesive. There are no screws evident for these but screws are present on the large vent assembly to the hull. I can't be only 450EB owner where the inserts are missing from falling off!
 
Looks like @SR450EB Captain and his son might be able to advise based on those awesome speaker pods they made (I want some too).

I think you would need the two pieces seperated to scan the cover. I worked for a company that scanned images to build 3D models of military aircraft for VR training. The process wasn't all that difficult to laser scan, but the scanner is like $5k. You also need the piece and then a 3D printer that is big enough. I didn't realize how big those vents are until I took them off the boat, they are big. There must be a company that does this stuff end to end. Another option would be to have something machined out if delrin after taking some basic measurements off of the other boat???

I am sure all of us are going to go make sure our covers are secure, and I am concerned that my adhesive is failing and will be checking them regularly.

Not sure if this helps the discussion, but here is the pic of the vents from the back (sitting on my office flloor). For reference, I measured the couch and it was 48" wide at the bottom. That would put the vent around 5 ft.

View attachment 113735
Your pic looks a little different than my vents re. the opening that the insert is glued to. Here's perhaps a better image of mine missing the glued on insert (or cover). The insert is actually a complicated piece, has vent openings in it's bottom side.
IMG_20211016_084147.jpg
 
Your pic looks a little different than my vents re. the opening that the insert is glued to. Here's perhaps a better image of mine missing the glued on insert (or cover). The insert is actually a complicated piece, has vent openings in it's bottom side.View attachment 113808

It's the same as mine, just missing that insert piece. You can see below what you are talking about with the openings on the cover that has just that small piece in the center that is also glued (I re-glued both of those joints, and wish I had removed and re-glued the tops too after seeing your issue). If you zoom in, you can see some of the gray adhesive protruding at the top of the vents.


20210910_083829.jpg
 
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It's the same as mine, just missing that insert piece. You can see boe what you are talking with the openings on the cover has just that small piece in the center that is also glued (I re-glued both of those joints, and wish I had removed and re-glued the tops too after seeing your issue). If you zoom in, you can see some of the gray adhesive protruding at the top of the vents.


View attachment 113810
I see it now after viewing the pic upside down so the straight section is on the bottom. Glad you are re-attaching! An annoyance for me they are missing. Running water off the gunwale doesn't intrude so I'm not worried about rain unless a sideways t-storm I guess. Heavy seas more if a threat. Then again, heavy seas could push up and in under the cover but less likely.
 
I see it now after viewing the pic upside down so the straight section is on the bottom. Glad you are re-attaching! An annoyance for me they are missing. Running water off the gunwale doesn't intrude so I'm not worried about rain unless a sideways t-storm I guess. Heavy seas more if a threat. Then again, heavy seas could push up and in under the cover but less likely.

Yeah, a total bummer they are missing.

Yes, straight is bottom. You can see the black fittings for bilge blowers which are top and aft.

On my retrieval trip way out in the Gulf, we had water coming in even with the inserts with heavy aft quartering seas. Not too bad, but each night I had to manually pump water from the area outboard of the rudders into the rudder area so it would bilge. Would imagine it would be worse without the inserts in that particular condition.
 
Here is Matt’s HIN # to add to the thread:
D8009000-CA1D-442A-B6D9-5A1BC49FEE6B.jpeg


Again, all credits to Frank Webster:
SER: Vessel is a Sea Ray
P: boat built in Palm Coast FL plant
4711: is the serial number of the boat
K: was built in November
9: boat was built in 1999
00: manufactured as a 2000 model year boat
450EB-534: this was the 34th boat built in the 2000 model year production run.

An interesting observation, I believe the first year run (the 99 model) from July of 98 to the end of June of 99, Sea Ray cranked out approximately 60-70 boats. With Matt’s boat, we see that Sea Ray was already at 34 in just four months. It must have been selling well. :)
 
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Our neighbor just sent us these pictures from sunrise this morning. Pretty cool with the two 450s in the shot along with a L590 Fly and a Sundancer. :cool:
8C62F4EE-A8B4-4132-8F18-62FA22317FCC.jpeg

67F54953-BBD3-4347-876D-F2378C281B13.jpeg
 
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Yeah, a total bummer they are missing.

Yes, straight is bottom. You can see the black fittings for bilge blowers which are top and aft.

On my retrieval trip way out in the Gulf, we had water coming in even with the inserts with heavy aft quartering seas. Not too bad, but each night I had to manually pump water from the area outboard of the rudders into the rudder area so it would bilge. Would imagine it would be worse without the inserts in that particular condition.
Indeed. I too have water outboard of one engine. On the list for wetvac because not clear if it also contains oil or even fuel laying there since prev owner. It's a long bilge void at the bulkhead. I have a guy to work on my bilge cleaning in general and on his list. I have no leaks of any source but 19 yrs old and two prev owners, it's needed. In May, had bottom & running gear painted, raised the water line, replaced the tape, replaced both raw water seacocks and dropped the rudders to reseal the flanges and repack. Had to, flanges leaked, seacocks wouldn't close all the way. Shafts, props, cutlass bearings inspected by several, experienced, and deemed acceptable. Next bottom job, I'll replace Cutlasses and re-align shafts...just because. Don't intend to buy props because I don't intend to hit anything!
 
RE Salon AC outlets, on mine, there is a 3rd AC outlet on top of the convection oven/fridge/freezer cabinet. It shoots straight up and is easy to miss, and easy to put something over it to block it without knowing (kitchen towels, bowls, trays, etc. )

And I've heard mixed reviews on chlorine tablets in sea strainers. Could do more harm then good. I've heard copper plumbing fittings help as well, but I haven't risked that either.
Found A/C vent as you say, at back of shelf directly above the microwave cabinet. Tks, didn't know of it.
 
Jack, I inspected my neighbor’s 420 AC this weekend. The entire vent structure is 71” long, exactly the same length as the 450’s vents. Here is the 420:
185DA4AE-5A58-4E4C-A4C0-5B449D59D89C.jpeg

I believe that the insert is the same for both boats. But the outer shell is a little different. It has less screws holding it in place. 4 with the 420 and 6 on the 450.
Here are a few close up pictures of the 420.
Forward:
64432DC8-7716-4B3B-ACAE-672C73720264.jpeg

Middle:
226C7458-D9F4-4661-92BD-EE4B983BE1B4.jpeg

Aft:
1C122FE4-5F09-4C5C-8231-66277C2D5EC6.jpeg

And here is my boat (also on the port side for reference)
686C9AE2-1FDC-4E1D-96D3-9783ABE3F304.jpeg
 
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Jack, I inspected my neighbor’s 420 AC this weekend. The entire vent structure is 71” long, exactly the same length as the 450’s vents. Here is the 420:
View attachment 113916
I believe that the insert is the same for both boats. But the outer shell is a little different. It has less screws holding it in place. 4 with the 420 and 6 on the 450.
Here are a few close up pictures of the 420.
Forward:
View attachment 113918
Middle:
View attachment 113919
Aft:
View attachment 113920
And here is my boat (also on the port side for reference)
View attachment 113921
Great pics, and yes, insert (or cover) looks identical. Not familiar with the 420 AC but I could perhaps be seeking the part referencing both boats. Thanks much!
 
I was able to stop by the boat last night and I took a few more pictures of the latch.
View attachment 112517
View attachment 112518

Well, I got all my hatch parts in. The missing cam plate was $21 vs. $200+ for the whole assembly.

Alas, here is where I am at:

20211018_201048.jpg


1/4" to 3/8" too far to port...ughh. Thinking I can grind it a bit. Hate to do that to a new piece. Even grinding the cam plate I think the stud/nuts may hit. Was very careful not to let that hatch shut while I was in there or I would be calling for my son to bring tools and help dismantle the latch.
20211018_201103.jpg
 
Well, I got all my hatch parts in. The missing cam plate was $21 vs. $200+ for the whole assembly.

Alas, here is where I am at:

View attachment 113985

1/4" to 3/8" too far to port...ughh. Thinking I can grind it a bit. Hate to do that to a new piece. Even grinding the cam plate I think the stud/nuts may hit. Was very careful not to let that hatch shut while I was in there or I would be calling for my son to bring tools and help dismantle the latch.
View attachment 113986
My gas struts to the hatch are a little tired. In a strong wind, I found out the hatch likes to slam shut and I had no one to call. :eek: Luckily the cam is easily removed from the inside (so long as you have tools in the engine room) but there was that moment of panic.
Here are the pictures of my latch again for reference.
SeaRaylatch2.jpeg


SeaRayLatch3.jpeg
 
My gas struts to the hatch are a little tired. In a strong wind, I found out the hatch likes to slam shut and I had no one to call. :eek: Luckily the cam is easily removed from the inside (so long as you have tools in the engine room) but there was that moment of panic.
Here are the pictures of my latch again for reference.
View attachment 114018

View attachment 114019
Now I see what this is. And tools in engine room, lol. Uh-oh, actually a good idea! At least channel locks & a screw driver. Note to self...I also have a busted piston at the bottom, held together with elect tape. Wonder if I can get a part. Haven't gotten to remedy yet or even looked closely yet. Made deposit for replacing radar, Tridata unit, and a blown VHF (one of two and second one screen is lame).
 
Now I see what this is. And tools in engine room, lol. Uh-oh, actually a good idea! At least channel locks & a screw driver. Note to self...I also have a busted piston at the bottom, held together with elect tape. Wonder if I can get a part. Haven't gotten to remedy yet or even looked closely yet. Made deposit for replacing radar, Tridata unit, and a blown VHF (one of two and second one screen is lame).
I would guess the struts are pretty easy to find and replace. I have them on my off season list to take care of. I'm not sure if you saw this in the thread earlier, but I built a little platform above my battery banks to hold a tool box. It really comes in handy when you are locked in the engine room. :D
Which radar, tridata and vhf are you purchasing for the boat? Do you still have the original Raymarine autopilot? I do and that is one thing that I might upgrade soon so it can sync with the Garmin for navigation.
SeaRayER2.jpg
 
I would guess the struts are pretty easy to find and replace. I have them on my off season list to take care of. I'm not sure if you saw this in the thread earlier, but I built a little platform above my battery banks to hold a tool box. It really comes in handy when you are locked in the engine room. :D
Which radar, tridata and vhf are you purchasing for the boat? Do you still have the original Raymarine autopilot? I do and that is one thing that I might upgrade soon so it can sync with the Garmin for navigation.
View attachment 114033
@Shoyrtt Didn't realize your autopilot didn't interface. I'll have to track down the link on mine, but pretty sure it is the Sea Talk that feeds into the Garmin. Mine slaves up and follows courses and routes pretty well.
 

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