I think I finally found a good boat that's priced well/fair

firecadet613 said:
Be sure to take care of all thru hulls after you close on the boat. Dig out coring, fill with epoxy then rebed. My Cruisers friend was amazed his coring was still dry with how little sealant they used at the factory.
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Wait, below the waterline was cored? All of my research suggests it's only above the waterline, which is not uncommon.
 
mrsrobinson said:
Wait, below the waterline was cored? All of my research suggests it's only above the waterline, which is not uncommon.
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I can't comment on the below the water line. All the one's he did were above the water line - sink drains, a/c discharge, etc.
 
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Just talked to my buyer's broker. All cylinders on the suspect engine are 170 PSI, one is 100. Turns out I didn't have to pay for this because the seller finally admitted they had this done about a month ago, that's why they accepted my offer. My buyer's broker knows the mechanic who did this for the seller about a month ago, and talked to him today.

My buyer's broker says the mechanic quoted a head job and ring job for $2,800. I questioned the ring part cuz that to me means either pulling the motor or going in through the oil pan. Has anyone ever heard of doing a head job and ring job on a boat with the motor in the boat for $2800?

I would still be at a very low price for this boat, but they're still the risk it's something else like the block or cylinder wall.
 
mrsrobinson said:
My buyer's broker says the mechanic quoted a head job and ring job for $2,800. I questioned the ring part cuz that to me means either pulling the motor or going in through the oil pan. Has anyone ever heard of doing a head job and ring job on a boat with the motor in the boat for $2800?
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There's no "either pulling the motor or going in through the oil pan. The only way you're doing rings is by pulling the pan which means you're pulling the motor.
 
HawkX66 said:
There's no "either pulling the motor or going in through the oil pan. The only way you're doing rings is by pulling the pan which means you're pulling the motor.
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That's what I thought, I rebuilt an engine in high school so when he said this I couldn't think of a way to replace a ring with the motor in the boat. He did qualify with "I'm not a mechanic though". He's a good guy, I like and trust him, just think he's been misled about this one.
 
If a seller or “my buyers broker” (whatever that means) told me the engine needs a ring job, oh hell no. I have no prob replace a water heater, some canvas, but internal engine parts just no, just me, but it aint my coin.
 
As @HawkX66 noted, it has to come out. However, depending on the decking, that can actually be a pretty straight-forward job, so wouldn't add all that much to the overall repair bill. For me, engine condition was quite a bit down on my list, below rotted stringers/transom, and bad outdrives.
 
If you find one you like, can afford, get it, allow for unexpected repairs. Sellers lie. Every ad i see from a broker is “this 20yo boat has circumnavigated the 7 seas and is fine as it left the factory.”
Every private ad i see is “it’s turn key, just got minor issues like rotted transom, and blown engine. Needs a little TLC to remove cabin mold cause its been in a moldy barn last 5 years”.
If you find a good one, grab fast.
 
mrsrobinson said:
Just talked to my buyer's broker. All cylinders on the suspect engine are 170 PSI, one is 100. Turns out I didn't have to pay for this because the seller finally admitted they had this done about a month ago, that's why they accepted my offer. My buyer's broker knows the mechanic who did this for the seller about a month ago, and talked to him today.

My buyer's broker says the mechanic quoted a head job and ring job for $2,800. I questioned the ring part cuz that to me means either pulling the motor or going in through the oil pan. Has anyone ever heard of doing a head job and ring job on a boat with the motor in the boat for $2800?

I would still be at a very low price for this boat, but they're still the risk it's something else like the block or cylinder wall.
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Maybe have them do a leak down test to see if they can isolate the issue. Heads wouldn’t worry me (been there). Pulling the engine might.
 
Yeah I've been there before with heads as well. Sent them out to the shop for new seals and such and that resolved the problem.

The seller is shifting the risk-on to me though with the good price. I could invest $3,000 and the problem still exists. Then I'm stuck with a boat with a bad engine. Then again I could invest $3,000, it's resolved, and I've got a good boat for a good price.

I did a leak down test myself on my 1995 330 sundancer, which revealed a cracked head gasket. I was losing antifreeze. Would a leak down test isolate the issue in this case to a bad ring, bad valve seals, etc.?

I'm a little pissed the seller didn't reveal this, they only said the one engine wouldn't reach wide open throttle. I was about to pay for engine compression checks when they already knew about this.
 
Going through a similar situation. "if the engines don't smoke, rattle, etc., the engines are in good condition because X brand don't perform well if not properly serviced". Yea, that's just not it goes. Reminds me of a great quote someone once told me, actually he's good got two quotes.

Can't fix stupid.
Can't teach balls.
 
A friend of mine bought a boat that the Owner said it just needed a head job lo compression on one motor. Ended up pulling the motor, broken ring, scored bearings and a lot more then just heads. I’d have them pay the bill to fix it and then complete the sale. You never know what is really wrong.
 
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Id pull all the injectors out and have them cleaned/tested as well. Dirty injector will lean out a cylinder and burn exhaust valves. Worst case burn a hole in a piston. Leakdown will tell you everything you need to know
 
mrsrobinson said:
I'm a little pissed the seller didn't reveal this...
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When is the surveys & sea trial? The boat will tell you anything the seller/seller's broker didn't reveal. Make your decision then.
 
Shenanigans77 said:
Id pull all the injectors out and have them cleaned/tested as well. Dirty injector will lean out a cylinder and burn exhaust valves. Worst case burn a hole in a piston. Leakdown will tell you everything you need to know
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Exactly. It's things like that that most people don't understand. They think the engines start and run so nothing is wrong with them. All that means is nothing is wrong with them at that exact moment.
 
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