58 Sedan Bridge Official Thread

Ooooh! Nifty! Thanks, hadn't found anything in the boat material! Looks like that'll help a lot!

Cheers, -Chris
 
The switch in the cockpit is on and off only, not up and down.

The pump and solenoids are port side of the generator.

I find that switch very "sticky" generally if I hear the quick chirp and above doesn't work, I switch the rocker back and forth until I hear it again, the repeat the remote on procedure.

Our wired remote you press and hold on while pressing up or down for 5 seconds.
 
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No green indicator light on the actuator switch. No power indicator on the hard-wired handheld remote. Ours looks slightly different than yours, Scott, but I think there's a tiny LED on ours that's probably supposed to light up.

Anyway, the manual has helped a lot, as has knowing where to start looking (port side of generator). I got partially back in there this morning, took a couple pics, and I've asked GHD customer service to confirm what I think I know now.

I suspect I next need to change at least two blade fuses, one for the ON/OFF indicator light and one for the hard-wired handheld remote. At least.

I won't get back to it 'til later in the week, but at least prepping my mind in the meantime for getting back there will help.

-Chris
 
5) Do both: replace the original regulator with the current Jabsco product (access will not be easy), repair the washdown spigot (needs doing anyway), and then usually bring city water aboard via the spigot using a Camco/Valterra (or similar) on the supply hose. Water pressure would usually increase a lot, this retains backflow prevention on the actual city water inlet, and leaves the boat in improved-near-original condition.

I made some progress on this, today!

I checked with Whitecap and sure enough there are rebuild kits… although they’re not currently available for a while. In the meantime, I bought a whole new replacement sillcock, it arrived yesterday, and today I swapped the new stem onto the old housing. Works fine! Yes, city water backfeeds through that spigot. Yes, it seems like water pressure might be better than through the (now failed) Jabsco 35 PSI inline water pressure regulator. Maybe not so much better, at our home dock, since pressure there isn’t overwhelming, but I’m taking whatever improvement I can get.

The new Jabsco 45 PSI replacement hasn’t arrived yet. That’s for down the road a bit, and for when I feel like enjoying some installation pain. I also ordered a Camco high flow 50-60 PSI unit to use with the washdown spigot, and it too hasn’t yet arrived. Not a big requirement at our home dock.

-Chris
 
Anyone have a model or part number for the Bosch alternator on a 2006 MAN CRM 900 my data plate was removed and painted over on both alternators.
 
Well, I have a few projects on hold for a couple of days: Still troubleshooting the dismal, abysmal, anemic, underwhelming waterflow at the galley sink. Still troubleshooting the lift platform (with GHS advise). Prepping to replace the original water pressure regulator (it'll hurt me to get there). Prepping to take oil samples and change oil filters. Prepping to eventually winterize. Et cetera...

In the meantime, though, I did finally remove the old original -- with crumbling black backing -- bridge carpeting. Then cleaned with brush and mop. Next is probably to use the Admiral's rotary floor scrubber. Then chemicals. Gak!

And now I'm thinking ahead to bridge carpet replacement. (I'll still leave the cockpit bare.) We used Corinthian carpet with the AquaLoc backing on our previous boat. 11 years now and still going strong as far as I know, so I'd consider that again. Especially if they happen to have bridge templates (no answer to my query yet). OTOH, I've also thought about something like Sea Deck, faux teak to complement to table on the bridge? I don't usually care for faux teak (and certainly don't want any REAL teak), but given the table, thought it might be sort of OK in this application...

Thoughts? And what products have other folks used?

-Chris
 
We put SeaDek on our 52DB. I absolutely love it. We went with the dark brown with the teak pattern. It looks great and doesn't show stains or dirt. It was about 7 Boat Bucks, but well worth it, in our opinion.
 
QUOTE="ranger58sb, post: 1267878, member: 60131"]Well, I have a few projects on hold for a couple of days: Still troubleshooting the dismal, abysmal, anemic, underwhelming waterflow at the galley sink. Still troubleshooting the lift platform (with GHS advise). Prepping to replace the original water pressure regulator (it'll hurt me to get there). Prepping to take oil samples and change oil filters. Prepping to eventually winterize. Et cetera...

In the meantime, though, I did finally remove the old original -- with crumbling black backing -- bridge carpeting. Then cleaned with brush and mop. Next is probably to use the Admiral's rotary floor scrubber. Then chemicals. Gak!

And now I'm thinking ahead to bridge carpet replacement. (I'll still leave the cockpit bare.) We used Corinthian carpet with the AquaLoc backing on our previous boat. 11 years now and still going strong as far as I know, so I'd consider that again. Especially if they happen to have bridge templates (no answer to my query yet). OTOH, I've also thought about something like Sea Deck, faux teak to complement to table on the bridge? I don't usually care for faux teak (and certainly don't want any REAL teak), but given the table, thought it might be sort of OK in this application...

Thoughts? And what products have other folks used?

-Chris[/QUOTE]

Our boat came with AquaTraction installed. While I thought I would have much preferred just the non skid everywhere we have come to really like the AquaTraction. It stays cool, is very grippy, dry's quickly and when wet doesn't soak your feet like carpet would. We do have a couple of spots its lifting, and PO said they replaced a couple of sections but we are happy with it. The spots its lifting at is where there is a joint underneath it just as you get to the top of the stairs to the bridge. I suppose they could have seamed it there but were fine with how it is, its just a small bubble in the middle of the panel and not a trip hazard.

We have it installed everywhere outside, fixed portion of swim platform, cockpit, steps, and bridge. We also have two "anti fatigue" mats at the helm made out of it as well.

It cleans easily as well, we don't have any stains.

Ours was installed by the original owner, they used the dealer in Naples and I was told they have the templates should we ever need a replacement panel.

www.aquatraction.com


PXL_20210407_140611058.jpg
 
For future reference however my alternator checked out as working from the shop but I’m having voltage issues on my starboard battery bank. It drops to about 24 and fluctuates when I’m cruising and with the generator on. I’m thinking I might need new batteries on that side.
 
Thank you all for your feedback. This is the best owners board
- hands down.

We ran TBIV 250 miles last weekend....down the Potomac and up the Chesapeake to Cambridge MD and return.

Steep 4’ on the bay with spray over the hard top Friday morning (NOAA Forecast winds NW @ 7, seas 1-2‘ ) and the old girl kicked ass. Backed down to 14 knots and had a comfortable ride north.

Such a shame that Sea Ray lost sight of quality control and pissed away owner loyalty with the L Series.....but 58s in my year are listed in the mid $600s

Who would have thought.....

Skip
a friend of mine purchased an L 650 fly in April of this year - it is a great boat with all the bells and whistles but i think all in all the 58 is the best all around boat
 
We saw you checking out the 650 yesterday evening as we were getting off our boat heading over to Lakewood. Are you getting new eisenglass for the front section, noticed it had been removed?
 
So an update for all of the 58DB people. A month ago on a somewhat short trip to Southseas, Our steering cylinder sprung a major leak. After our week stay, we tried to leave, but literally had no steering. We had to be towed back 4.5 hours to our house. Thank God for Seatow!

Seastar was sold to Dometic, who sold all of their patents and licenses to Boat Steering Solutions, LLC (BSS, LLC) in North Naples.

My mechanic said he would replace the seals. I purchased $250.00 in seals, reinstalled, and during purging, sprung another leak. Called BSS, LLC, who told me there is a zero percent chance that replacing the seals would fix a leak. The cylinder rack must be remanufactured. Around $1,600.00. I wish they would have said that when I purchased the seal kits.

I took it up to them, and basically after a week received a "new" steering rack.

Purging is a two person job, but is pretty easy.

We are back on the water after a month!!

Ken
Ken - same thing happened to me but we were running home from Galveston - completely lost steerage - we ordered a new unit $3300 plus install - all good now -
 
I'll throw in here if you don't mind. Don't confuse brightness with color temperature. I have replaced all lamps on the boat sans engine room with LED. For the three inch recessed lights in the cabin I kept the temperature to no more than 3600 degrees Kelvin and matched the lumens (brightness) to the halogens and for the heads 5000 degrees Kelvin (more towards sunshine). These are the lamps from Marinebeam.com I installed for the living areas https://store.marinebeam.com/9-led-back-pin-g4-smd-power-cluster-novi-bp-g4-09x/
Very happy with them.
Thanks for posting - i will take a look - you made it easy - thanks again
 
So you got the entire lock set for $108? Wow!! Was that the interior guts of the Taylormade Handle/lock assembly?

If so, I may make a trip to Houston!!

I took that door off 4 years ago by myself - that was a bear of a job!!
i did not need to purchase a new lock set - the one key that came with the boat opened the door but when you made a duplicate key it would not work - took the lockset out and took it to a locksmith and he knew immediately that i had the wrong blank for the key - just purchased 3 keys made with the correct blank and put the lockset back in -- all good
 
We saw you checking out the 650 yesterday evening as we were getting off our boat heading over to Lakewood. Are you getting new eisenglass for the front section, noticed it had been removed?
Yes we are - they are replacing sections - it was so cool yesterday we decided to take a sunset cruise
 
GALLEY SINK WATER FLOW

I've taken the screen/filter out of the galley faucet -- at the sprayer attachment end -- and cleaned that... Is there also a screen/filter somewhere earlier on in that connection? Somewhere down under the galley sink? Or...? The galley sink is where we have the least water flow with city water only... just slightly more than dribble...

@ranger58sb
Regarding your galley sink, ours too was basically down to a drip. If yours is a Grohe, there is a quick disconnect under the sink/behind the access panel.

It should be this:
https://www.grohe.us/Bathroom-Faucet-Fittings-and-Spare-Parts/Quick-Coupling/GROHE-CHROME-46315000

I had called Grohe and they pointed me at this. I bought a new one, and did replace it, but it turned out my original one had some(LOTS of) activated charcoal in it I guess from the PO and the whole house filter. It made a big difference in the flow out that faucet.

Well, I have a few projects on hold for a couple of days: Still troubleshooting the dismal, abysmal, anemic, underwhelming waterflow at the galley sink.

Back in early September I mentioned our water flow problem at the galley sink. @Shaps tipped me to the Quick Coupler Grohe uses to connect the pull-out spray faucet head to the system... and then he also mentioned finding some charcoal sediment in theirs...

So I thought better to full explore the system before replacing our Quick Couple or before calling Grohe if the problem turned out to be something different. I dismantled the pull out hose connections at both ends and also took the faucet head apart, got some of the crystalline mineral build-up out of the way, then soaked/cleaned everything in vinegar. No improvement, but at least I knew what didn't help. (Didn't have any charcoal build-up, but then too we don't have the extra drinking water filters, so I wasn't surprised to not see any charcoal fines in there.)

Back to the project a couple days ago, I also tried the water flow adjustment built into the faucet. No impact.

(It's not obvious in the documentation, but the 3-ring collar just under the handle can be pulled downward to expose a set screw for a 3mm allen key. Loosening that releases the handle, and once it's lifted out of the way that in turn exposes the adjustment set screw which uses a 2.5mm allen key. The adjustment didn't seem to do much, at least in all the mid-ranges I tried.)​

Then I disconnected the cold water connection to the boat, and verified pressure going to the faucet is good.

THEN I called Grohe a couple days ago... and the tech confirmed the Quick Coupler was the most likely cause and that replacing it would most likely fix the problem. Yep, that did it.

For background, the pull-out dual-spray faucet is Grohe's EuroPlus II, part #33 939, and it's similar to the EuroDisc model (#33 330 001) and original EuroPlus (#32 946 002) that Grohe's online docs cover better. The tech said the current Quick Couplers #46 138 000, yellow, and #46 315 000, green) are basically interchangeable, but then later he also said he prefers the yellow Coupler because it seems to be more durable.

(Our original Quick Coupler was red, apparently no longer an option. The part is #48 220 000 in the EuroDisc and original EuroPlus diagrams, so maybe that was an earlier red one.)​

Anyway, I ordered the yellow Coupler, about $40 from Amazon, installed it this morning, and that brought water flow back to what it should have been all along.

Then I tried the water flow adjustment again, no impact again. Still doesn't seem to do anything, at least in mid-ranges that I tried.

-Chris
 
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