420/44 DB Owners Club

RBB said:
Fellas I finally got a new blackwater tank gauge sending unit. It sucks that it is not model specific, you have to cut it to lenght and wire it in , no plug. I had sea ray of Cincinnati get it for me since I could not find the part. Its a dometic. Unreal that the original part is not made or they do not make them to order in my opinion.
Aggravated . What a PIA!
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Took mine out and cleaned it last summer with no luck. Was too pricey of a fix at the time but I did read that you have to cut to size.
 
Irie308 said:
Took mine out and cleaned it last summer with no luck. Was too pricey of a fix at the time but I did read that you have to cut to size.
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Yep, and sea ray of Cincinnati already threw my old one away. Mine was showing full all the time so it shut off the vaccum flush. had to leave it unplugged so the heads would work. Now I wish I would have just let it go. I see more problems ahead to getting it going.
 
Tomco said:
I haven't heard of ceramic tint before, was it an expensive process? Anything with ceramic in the name is usually at the higher end!
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I don’t think it was terrible $700 for a couple of hours work and travel to the boat. What a difference it made we took heat gun readings before and after. Highly recommend it and would do it again.
 
Charlesoceanone said:
Did you ever find the wheels for your anchor roller?
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Have not.
I got hold of SeaLux and they were basically not wanting to do anything because covid. I need to call them again and see if they back to normal ops.
I did find some other white colored rollers that may work but not same diameter. If I get those and can get them to work I'll post it. and please let us know if you find anything.
 
I hope I am in right place. Recently bought a 2007 44 Sedan Bridge. On trip north ran into some good chop and was taking spray over bow for a while. After that I noticed water coming inside from front windshield that ran a along flat area above guest cabin and a bid down door frame of master cabin. Thinking about re-sealing around windshield pieces as current sealant appears rough/aesthetically unappealing and hoping this may stop leak. Has anyone done this and can offer any advice? I am hoping I don't have to rebed the windows and can just replace sealant around outside edges. Looks to be almost a 1/2" deep channel around the windows.
 

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Not exactly the same, but I re-caulked my front windshields and plan on doing the same to my side wiindows this spring.
I removed a fair amount of the old caulk from that channel but definitely did NOT remove all of it. Cleaned the resulting channel with acetone and then filled in with new sealant. Knock on wood, 1 season in the books with no issue.
 
Shaps said:
View attachment 118894 View attachment 118895 Not exactly the same, but I re-caulked my front windshields and plan on doing the same to my side wiindows this spring.
I removed a fair amount of the old caulk from that channel but definitely did NOT remove all of it. Cleaned the resulting channel with acetone and then filled in with new sealant. Knock on wood, 1 season in the books with no issue.
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What sealant did you use?
 
techmitch said:
Sure is, but that is what I recommend as it will probably out last you, it's black, easy to work with and adds to the structural integrity of what ever it is used on.
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Thanks! so it tools well? What is the working time?
 
cls3934 said:
I hope I am in right place. Recently bought a 2007 44 Sedan Bridge. On trip north ran into some good chop and was taking spray over bow for a while. After that I noticed water coming inside from front windshield that ran a along flat area above guest cabin and a bid down door frame of master cabin. Thinking about re-sealing around windshield pieces as current sealant appears rough/aesthetically unappealing and hoping this may stop leak. Has anyone done this and can offer any advice? I am hoping I don't have to rebed the windows and can just replace sealant around outside edges. Looks to be almost a 1/2" deep channel around the windows.
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As you probably saw from a previous post I had all my sealant replaced including the windshields. Not because of leaks but because of its poor condition. I had it done professionally because it was such a big, tedious and messy job.

I would recommend getting a hose out and spraying different areas to replicate the leak because your sealant doesn’t look that bad.

Old:
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New:
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ttmott said:
Ya, that's my go-to product for all caulking on the boat. Actually using it now to bed the Presto dinghy lifts onto the swim deck. Didn't know that it comes in black to use on the windows.
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To be fair, I only did the white at the bottom....
Apologies, I should have been specific
 
AEO said:
As you probably saw from a previous post I had all my sealant replaced including the windshields. Not because of leaks but because of its poor condition. I had it done professionally because it was such a big, tedious and messy job.

I would recommend getting a hose out and spraying different areas to replicate the leak because your sealant doesn’t look that bad.

Old:
View attachment 118913View attachment 118917View attachment 118916View attachment 118915
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Maybe a silly question but did they remove the white sealant first or just over white with black sealant?
 
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Tomco said:
Last summer I added two 170W SunPower flexible panels on the aft arch. They are held on with rare earth magnets - no holes in the canvas or sewing involved. After a night at anchor the panels will fully charge the batteries by noon (assuming it is sunny), the two panels (340W) is enough to offset all our usage. I did size the equipment to add a third panel on the forward part of the arch if we feel it is necessary. The weak link in the system is our batteries and they are on the list to be changed this spring (AGM deep cycle).

I did a lot of research last winter and there is some confusing and incorrect information on some of the sites. If you go down this path let me know and I'll share my results.

We are setting up our boat for remote travel, hence the solar panels. One other thing you might consider is hooking up the water heater loop to the engine - a 20 min trip from one anchorage to another will give you a tank of hot water without having to run the generator.

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I like the magnet fastener idea, here is another option I found from custommarineproducts.com. Have been thinking about adding solar too.
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