300 Sundancer questions.

techmitch said:
You should consider flying a CSR burgee from your pulpit flag mount.
You can get one here; https://www.boemarine.com/clubsearay-burgee.html or for a few more bucks you can sponsor CSR and get one and a CSR T-shirt as a free gift.
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20211214_172901.jpg I will be making my own with my copyrighted design. as soon as I can get the time to do some major Maintenace on my embroidery machine. Current finances statis from a spend happy wife over Christmas is "Broke as Frick".
 
Chris McCluskey said:
Thanks. Sadly just the 5.0’s
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Chris: if you don't have them already, download the the owners manual and parts manual from SR. They are great for reference:

https://s3.amazonaws.com/srweb-pvt-...ic/parts-manuals/2002__2002-300-SUNDANCER.pdf
techmitch said:
You should consider flying a CSR burgee from your pulpit flag mount.
You can get one here; https://www.boemarine.com/clubsearay-burgee.html or for a few more bucks you can sponsor CSR and get one and a CSR T-shirt as a free gift.
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That is one of the supposed perks of sponsorship, but I never got one. Plus the captains rarely respond in the "ask the captains" forum.
 
Phil S said:
Chris: if you don't have them already, download the the owners manual and parts manual from SR. They are great for reference:

https://s3.amazonaws.com/srweb-pvt-...ic/parts-manuals/2002__2002-300-SUNDANCER.pdf


That is one of the supposed perks of sponsorship, but I never got one. Plus the captains rarely respond in the "ask the captains" forum.
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techmitch said:
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/csr-burgees-now-in-stock.50143/page-6
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↑
Not true! I renewed my Platinum sponsorship back in May and have yet to receive mine. I also sent 2 email message requesting the same with zero results so after being a supporting member since 2008, I will no longer support this site once this one runs out. Somebody is definitely sleeping at the switch and nobody seems to care.
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i never received anything either
Memory joggled this morning. I did have to PM Jim @CSR_Admin to get my free gifts but as soon as I did, Jim had them shipped right away. I know he is crazy busy but maybe he will see this post.
 
When I was shopping for a 300 or 320DA, I came across an Australian boat - the Mustang 3200 which is about the same size (32 feet long, 10.5 foot beam). They are rare in the US and the broker was non-responsive. Anyhow, if you've ever wanted more space in the bilge, look at this example with a single 6.2 MPI. It probably can't get out of its own way but imagine all the space to work :eek:

4_4.jpg
 
Hi All,
We are repowering our 2005 300DA and I wanted to replace the hot water heater while the engines are out. The boat is winterized, so I'm hoping one of you will know for sure if the original Atwood HWH has front and rear mounting brackets to the hull, or if it has side mounts to screw it down. I'd bet money that it was front and rear mounting brackets, but it looks like the Kuuma it can be ordered both ways. Probably doesn't make a lot of difference, but the fewer new screw holes the better!

Thanks
James
 
JimFromMD said:
Hi All,
We are repowering our 2005 300DA and I wanted to replace the hot water heater while the engines are out. The boat is winterized, so I'm hoping one of you will know for sure if the original Atwood HWH has front and rear mounting brackets to the hull, or if it has side mounts to screw it down. I'd bet money that it was front and rear mounting brackets, but it looks like the Kuuma it can be ordered both ways. Probably doesn't make a lot of difference, but the fewer new screw holes the better!

Thanks
James
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They come in both formats like you said. I need a new one as well :( On mine, the original Attwood has a mounting bracket on the front -- in between the hoses and below where the electrical connections are

I'm sure it goes w/o saying but make sure you get the one where all the hose connections are on the front, and not split between front and back.

kuuma-11811-01.jpg
 
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Phil S said:
They come in both formats like you said. I need a new one as well :( On mine, the original Attwood has a mounting bracket on the front -- in between the hoses and below where the electrical connections are

I'm sure it goes w/o saying but make sure you get the one where all the hose connections are on the front, and not split between front and back.

kuuma-11811-01.jpg
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Ok that's the bracket I found in one of my random pictures but it wasn't really in focus or what I was taking the picture for originally. I dont know if there is a bracket on the back. I'll order front/back too, and yes the one with all the connections on the front as well. Thanks for confirming my suspicion on the bracket!
 
JimFromMD said:
Ok that's the bracket I found in one of my random pictures but it wasn't really in focus or what I was taking the picture for originally. I dont know if there is a bracket on the back. I'll order front/back too, and yes the one with all the connections on the front as well. Thanks for confirming my suspicion on the bracket!
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Awesome. I assume you would
  1. take off the front bracket
  2. slide the heater towards stbd so it goes under the rear bracket
  3. reinstall and tighten front bracket
Keep us posted !!!
 
Phil S said:
Are you repowering with the same? Or going up a size?
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We are repowering up to 5.7 crate engines but keeping the Bravo II drives. Apparently 5.0s are very difficult to get these days. We looked into 6.2s but decided that was overkill for our needs and additional money which we wouldn't get back. That combined with some potential canvas needs in a season or two, we decided to leave that additional 6.2 money for the future.

We've honestly never been disappointed with the performance of the 5.0 package and Bravo II drives. You often see claims in forums that 5.0/BII combo is underpowered and a dog performance wise, but we never had any issues. She takes a bit longer to get up on plane with full fuel and water, but that's to be expected and only really noticeable if we have a few more people on board than normal. A little trim tab helps in that case.

We compared with another owner with 5.7s and BIII drives and to keep the approximate same speed, we were running 100rpms higher. To be fair, our boat is lift kept so we aren't dealing with a dirty bottom / algae / barnacles creating additional drag which may be a factor driving those with different opinions.
 
Phil S said:
Awesome. I assume you would
  1. take off the front bracket
  2. slide the heater towards stbd so it goes under the rear bracket
  3. reinstall and tighten front bracket
Keep us posted !!!
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Good point on the removal technique. I was wondering how I was going to get to those back screws. I dont think there is a lot of room to slide sideways on that ledge. I assumed I would have to unscrew the front bracket and pull forward (toward the centerline of the boat). Now I'm curious! More to think about until the mechanic slices into the shrink wrap once the engines arrive.
 
JimFromMD said:
Good point on the removal technique. I was wondering how I was going to get to those back screws. I dont think there is a lot of room to slide sideways on that ledge. I assumed I would have to unscrew the front bracket and pull forward (toward the centerline of the boat). Now I'm curious! More to think about until the mechanic slices into the shrink wrap once the engines arrive.
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A suggestion - put a kitchen drainage mat under the water heater so it stays out of any water.
 
ttmott said:
A suggestion - put a kitchen drainage mat under the water heater so it stays out of any water.
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Ok that's an interesting thought and thanks for that. You mean one of the silicon/rubber ones? Wouldn't the water sit in that just as much as if it was direct mounted to the fiberglass ledge/shelf there?

So mine still holds water, and works on generator/shore. It was the recirculating fittings for the tubes to/from the motor that rotted out. Of course it rotted out the season directly following my riser/manifold/spacer replacement when it would have been easier to remove. Since the engines are coming out, now is the time!
 
JimFromMD said:
Ok that's an interesting thought and thanks for that. You mean one of the silicon/rubber ones? Wouldn't the water sit in that just as much as if it was direct mounted to the fiberglass ledge/shelf there?

So mine still holds water, and works on generator/shore. It was the recirculating fittings for the tubes to/from the motor that rotted out. Of course it rotted out the season directly following my riser/manifold/spacer replacement when it would have been easier to remove. Since the engines are coming out, now is the time!
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https://www.americanfloormats.com/free-flow-drainage-tiles/
 
JimFromMD said:
Are you suggesting that to prevent the HWH's case from rusting/corroding or to protect something inside? Not disputing, just trying to understand what the issue is that you are highlighting. This is why I love CSR.
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Hi Jim, yes others have posted pics of their HW heater case rusting on the bottom. MIne is like yours right now where the recirc hose connections have rotted out. You could get the same results by raising it up on the corners or some other way to let the water drain below.
 
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