OFFICIAL - 450DA Owner's Thread****

I'm watching this, as I believe it's a good practice to seal/reseal any exposed balsa core that may require some care.

BEST !

RWS
 
GOT IT. . .SALON AC REMOVAL
Finally kept unscrewing and unbolting and finally had to cut a piece, but, removed all the shelving and cabinet above the central vac, (and the central vac), and there was enough room to remove the AC unit. Now for about 4 boat bucks I'll have a reliable AC that I hope will last another 20+ years.
Don't think I'll have to worry about that one.

I'm getting ready to go through the same as my salon is going out. Did you have to remove any parts of the stairs? I'm assuming our 98's are similar.
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Hello. Has anyone removed the vent cover? I incurred some travel lift damage and thinking it may be easier to take it off rather than fix in place. Thanks!View attachment 126658

Removal of this item is on my list of PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE to make sure there is zero exposed core.

Hopefully someone else has already been down this road and will share.

BEST !

RWS
 
I'm getting ready to go through the same as my salon is going out. Did you have to remove any parts of the stairs? I'm assuming our 98's are similar.View attachment 127211

I've poked around a number of 450DA boats before buying mine. Always found the central vac to be located under the portside salon steps. Never saw one with the vacuum under the salon sofa.

Wonder if this was a factory running change?
 
Asking for a friend who has a late 90's 45 DA. He is in the midst of removing his fuel tanks due to a leak. He's trying to find the best way to get at the back of the fuel tanks without having to disassemble the aft cabin. Has anyone tackled this task that can shed some light?
 
On this model, twin 200 gallon fuel tanks are located beyond the outboard stringers, just aft of the mid cabin.

To my knowledge, this is the arrangement for the 1995-1999 450 Sundancer models regardless of galley to port or starboard.

Disassembly of the aft cabin provides no known advantage for removal IMHO.

Removal from the vessel would be a nightmare at best.

That said the tank sides and aft side are exposed. Removal of the exhaust system & waste tanks would allow for some access if the repairs could be done in the engine room without removal of the tanks.

What makes owner believe BOTH TANKS have failed?

Could there be some other source of a leak?

BEST !

RWS
 
Asking for a friend who has a late 90's 45 DA. He is in the midst of removing his fuel tanks due to a leak. He's trying to find the best way to get at the back of the fuel tanks without having to disassemble the aft cabin. Has anyone tackled this task that can shed some light?

From my understanding for the engine block replacement, they removed the entire cockpit on our boat.
 
Asking for a friend who has a late 90's 45 DA. He is in the midst of removing his fuel tanks due to a leak. He's trying to find the best way to get at the back of the fuel tanks without having to disassemble the aft cabin. Has anyone tackled this task that can shed some light?
I was speaking with a fiberglass guy who told me he had done a job a few years back. Had to cut the hull sides to remove thee leaking tank. I left that conversation with a pit in my stomach prob going to be a huge ordeal. Possibly cut out then replace with multiple smaller tanks?
 
I've seen tank removal on 2 different 450DA's……not mine but one in this marina and another in the Pensacola area. It isn't a fun job and requires a bit of planning and a very good boat yard crew. The seating and cockpit deck have to come out and both engines and transmissions have to be removed so it is a great time to touch up and paint the engines and gears. It is also a great time to replace the seawater and waste hoses. Be sure you budget for the hose replacement. Large diameter reinforced water and exhause[ hoses are expensive but it will be a lot cheaper to replace them if you can get to everything when the engines are out of the way.

Be sure the yard doing the work takes pains to protect the seat bases and cockpit floor from gravel, forklift traffic and golf carts. Its is a lot easier to protect the nonskid gelcoat than to try to get a decent repair on non-skid that was carelessly damaged.

Good luck with it………..


Frank
 
My windlass switch at the helm doesn’t seem to be working. Foot pedals at the bow are operating normally. I haven’t unscrewed the dash panel yet, does anyone know of a suitable replacement toggle switch? Not sure if it is single pole double throw. Or double pole double through? Basic operation is pull out up and down. Thanks for any help.
 
My windlass switch at the helm doesn’t seem to be working. Foot pedals at the bow are operating normally. I haven’t unscrewed the dash panel yet, does anyone know of a suitable replacement toggle switch? Not sure if it is single pole double throw. Or double pole double through? Basic operation is pull out up and down. Thanks for any help.
Check your fuses in the solenoid in your engine room. I replaced the switches at the helm and the relay box at the windlass. Frank W. told me to check the 50 cent fuses and he was correct.
 
I replaced the saddle fuses on the engine room solenoid with "Slow-Blow" fuses and never had another issue.

Buy fuses of the same amperage…..they will blow correctly so the equipment is properly protected but the slow-blow type requires an extra second or 2 to heat up before popping.
 
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Check your fuses in the solenoid in your engine room. I replaced the switches at the helm and the relay box at the windlass. Frank W. told me to check the 50 cent fuses and he was correct.
Fuses on both sides of the solenoid were fine when I checked them yesterday. Actually the first place I looked after reading your previous post. That is when I decided to try to the foot pedals, happy that they worked. Helm switch still a no go. Ill put the meter on the switch once I unscrew the dash panel... Would like to bring a new switch with me, thinking its single pole, double throw based on the windlass toggles found on the internet...
 
I replaced the saddle fuese on the engine room solenoid with "Slow-Blow" fuses and never had another issue.

Buy fuses of the same amperage…..they will blow correctly so the equipment is properly protected but the slow-blow type requires an extra second or 2 to heat up before popping.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Could someone please direct me to the location of these fuses so I could address this issue pre-emptively?

BEST !

RWS
 

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