Zipper repair in Strataglass front curtains

Front curtains have "smilies" cut in and a light guage YYK coil zipper sewn in. The zipper has come apart at one end. Whats the best option to repair? Looking for a DIY solution till the season is over.

Edit: The loops have been damaged as I tried to put the pull back on, and the fabric has frayed ends...




I found these to try as I have some other zippers that need attention. Evidently mine are Riri, and no longer suported in the US and not compatible with YYK. Of course they arent!

Calling all Sewing Guru's

The FixnZip's failed miserably.

Can a new zipper be sewn into Stratoglass easily? Will it be more prone to leaking? And if so, anyway to more waterproof the seams?

dtfeld said:

Calling all Sewing Guru's

The FixnZip's failed miserably.

Can a new zipper be sewn into Stratoglass easily? Will it be more prone to leaking? And if so, anyway to more waterproof the seams?

Click to expand...

Can only say that I had new one seen in and I've been happy with it

did the slider or both sliders come off? If so - That looks to be a number 5 coil which you can get sliders for - https://www.sailrite.com/Notions/Zipper/Sliders-and-Pulls
Once you get the correct slider then completely open up the zipper then start the slider at one or the other end to zip it up. It's more difficult to start a slider on a closed zipper and probably near impossible to start one in the situation shown. Typically, a stop is sewn or melted or pinched (metal) on either end of the zipper that may need to be removed to start a new slider.

I really screwed the pooch and both sliders were removed in trying to sort this out. They were pointed at each other. I got one reinstalled, but the wrong direction (but at least it functions enough to keep the weather out). The picture attached is of the left end, the right end is still well captured, and I'm reluctant to start peeling that back.

I need to get the first one started "backwards" and then follow the second one "forward" position, and then sew/melt a stop in, and tuck the tail back up under the binding. I don't think it was well captured to begin with.

However, I have several zippers that need replacement on several panels, and considering buying a Sailrite or Juki sewing machine to attempt these repairs myself as a winter project. I've been going back through reading several of the sewing threads, trying to decide if its worth it or not. I can certainly have someone do the work, but it seems my canvas is in need of constant maintenance and repairs. It would be nice to take care of the minor stuff quickly (wait times are ridiculous lately).

Ordered some pulls/stops and extra #5 coil, plus a couple #10's to see if I'm up to zipper repairs...

dtfeld said:

Ordered some pulls/stops and extra #5 coil, plus a couple #10's to see if I'm up to zipper repairs...

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Sailrite videos are really really good. You won’t regret buying a machine if you’re a DIYer. I love my sewing machine and my ability to make and fix stuff. Just made up some test pieces for when I get my upholstery redone professionally, just to see if we like certain designs and fabrics. (My new PTFE thread messed up in these and I was in a rush, but you get the gist)

A couple of tid-bits from the school of hard knocks. I actually rather enjoy doing my own canvas work.
If you buy a machine get a walking foot rotary hook machine with the longest arm reasonable - the frustration level will go down on skipped stitches and rats nesting.
Plan on making a worktable for the machine to inset; there is no practical way to do this type of work on the kitchen counter. For me the machine needs to be able to stitch slowly - the slower control the better for me - that means good electrical controls and big motor.
Plan on a couple of days to get the machine dialed in and running the way you desire.
Basting tape is your best friend.
Mark and take pictures of the existing.
Get several seam rippers and a pair of high-quality scissors.

I rebuilt my windlass cover a while back, it turned out OK, but the machine was barely up to that small job. It was fun and frustrating dealing with the thread, but I’m up to the task.

Looking around at sewing machines, they have gone up significantly in price.The LZ1 in now up over a grand an the next level is pushing $2k. Even the used ones are a grand. Buying a cheap REX, doesn’t sound like the best way to go.

Found this guide for buying a sewing machines, both new and used —> https://theluckyneedle.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Sewing-Machine-Buyers-Guide-2021.pdf

@ttmott Is your Sailrite still a good tool for this type of thing, or do you have something else in mind? Im thinking mostly repairs, zippers and binding up some new runners and carpets

dtfeld said:

I rebuilt my windlass cover a while back, it turned out OK, but the machine was barely up to that small job. It was fun and frustrating dealing with the thread, but I’m up to the task.

Looking around at sewing machines, they have gone up significantly in price.The LZ1 in now up over a grand an the next level is pushing $2k. Even the used ones are a grand. Buying a cheap REX, doesn’t sound like the best way to go.

Found this guide for buying a sewing machines, both new and used —> https://theluckyneedle.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Sewing-Machine-Buyers-Guide-2021.pdf

Click to expand...

The LSZ-1 and LS-1 are oscillating hook machines. I have the LSZ-1 and really fight it with the PTFE thread to the point I'd never try to do upholstery stitching.

dtfeld said:

@ttmott Is your Sailrite still a good tool for this type of thing, or do you have something else in mind? Im thinking mostly repairs, zippers and binding up some new runners and carpets

Click to expand...

It's a great machine for the price and what I do with it. For "hard core" canvas work it needs a better motor and better motor speed controls which are upgrades you can pony up for. If I tackle any further large canvas work I'll definitely upgrade the power. The skipped stitches will drive you batty however.

ttmott said:

The LSZ-1 and LS-1 are oscillating hook machines. I have the LSZ-1 and really fight it with the PTFE thread to the point I'd never try to do upholstery stitching.

Click to expand...

Sounds like the rotary hook are more suited for the heavy threads, but at a cost.

dtfeld said:

Sounds like the rotary hook are more suited for the heavy threads, but at a cost.

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Not heavy threads but more the stiffness of the thread from what I know.

ttmott said:

It's a great machine for the price and what I do with it. For "hard core" canvas work it needs a better motor and better motor speed controls which are upgrades you can pony up for. If I tackle any further large canvas work I'll definitely upgrade the power. The skipped stitches will drive you batty however.

Click to expand...

My photo above was with new Solarfix I just got on my Thompson Mini Walker (Sailrite predecessor). Haven’t dialed it in very well. Am I looking at nothing but problems with PTFE?

flyboycj84 said:

My photo above was with new Solarfix I just got on my Thompson Mini Walker (Sailrite predecessor). Haven’t dialed it in very well. Am I looking at nothing but problems with PTFE?

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Especially Tenara threads. The Sailrite PTFE thread works much better but still too many skipped stitches. Also for the PTFE threads step up the needle size by two (I use a 20) or the needle thread eye will ball up the the tiny strands that hang off the thread and cause issues. The last thing actually two things is to set the distance between the needle and hook which needs to be as close to zero as possible and calibrate the timing. These are all set screw based shaft adjustments on these types of machines. I think Sailrite has several videos on how to do these.

I will add a few comments to this from my experiences:

1) Sailrite LSZ-1 is a work horse and can handle "almost" any marine repairs. You will need to have a bunch of accessories to properly handle some. If you are not leaving it out all the time get the carry case to store it away.

2) Any of these, comparable machines, or other even commercial machines will be enhanced with addition of a servo motor. This will give you better low speed control. However this can be compensated for on the LSZ-1 by simply adding some resistance with one hand on the wheel to slow things down or upgrade to their servo option.

3) Knowing when to hand stitch with the wheel is important. If you are not comfortable with maneuver then simply turn the wheel by hand one stitch at a time - that is what it is there for.

4) PTFE threads - There are not for everything and I am not completely a fan of it. While it is typically considered a "lifetime" thread that is related to UV resistance and chemical (ie bleach). These type of threads are basically a monofilament fishing line. They are not soft and do not give the same feel in upholstery. They also tend to "snap" (think fishing line) and pull out very easily because of their slick nature.

5) PTFE thread use will require dialing in your machine both on tension (top and bottom) as well as using the proper needle size and positioning. Lubricated tend to help and running to fast can heat the needle and the heat can weaken the thread causing breaks.

6) For Upholstery I will still stick 100% with UV rated 92 for internal work and 138 for top stitching.

7) For most repairs (like zippers) I will just run with UV bonded 92 thread. Higher stress areas maybe jump up to 138.

9) PTFE will be used when required/requested by customer as they are always right.

8) One last comment - basting tape is helpful with canvas as it works to seal the stitches after installation as the heat of the sun will allow the glue to seal the holes. For upholstery I staple in the seam allowance and remove as this prevents any gumming up of the needle and then there is no glue to wind up outside the seam.

By the way, this is my biggest project. It was done with a LSZ-1, Top Gun Fabric and Tenara thread and all seams were flat felled. Way over kill. If(when?) I were to do it again I would use a lighter weight fabric and UV bonded 138 thread (I have had some seams open because the thread snapped). For reference that is my 340SDA pictured. (Done on my LSZ-1 because I was told I could not do it so it was a proof of concept).



To wrap this up... I would not worry about the "lifetime" thread as even if it lasts a lifetime many of your other components will not.

-Kevin

Just one additional comment regarding the machines. The Sailrite machines are not just good machines they are backed by a very friendly and helpful company. Unlike many of the cheaper models available online they carry a full line of accessories and replacement parts. I have had to replace certain components because of accidental damage and I was happy to be able to get the parts. With a cheaper alternative this may not have been the case and I may have lost my initial investment.

-Kevin

dtfeld said:

Calling all Sewing Guru's

The FixnZip's failed miserably.

Can a new zipper be sewn into Stratoglass easily? Will it be more prone to leaking? And if so, anyway to more waterproof the seams?

Click to expand...

I never saw this technique used on the lakes in GA, but here's how my FL guy waterproofs zippers. He adds a "flap" of extra strataglass over the zipper on the outside. You'll have to look closely to see it in the pics...I have unzipped and pulled the smilely inside so you can see the flap..