500/520 DB official thread

spikedaddy99 said:
If we go out this weekend, I will document.
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Thank you I appreciate that… we were seeing some really good Load and GPH this week at 1700-1900 RPM. I have been told that 1600-1800 can create too much heat coming out of the exhausts… trying to drill down on that…
 
@rlynch03
spikedaddy99 said:
If we go out this weekend, I will document.
Click to expand...
Dead calm Bay. Port motor @ 900degrees throughout. Starboard at 1100 until 1900 rpm, then dropped to 1000. At 2000 and up it hovered under 1000 degrees. This has been constant throughout my ownership, despite taking out some pitch a couple years ago. Mike
 
Fuse/breaker for the fresh water pump.

Hi everyone. Do you know where the fuse for the fresh water pump is located? Is there a breaker as well? Or just the switch in the salon. Thanks!
 
tshannoz said:
Fuse/breaker for the fresh water pump.

Hi everyone. Do you know where the fuse for the fresh water pump is located? Is there a breaker as well? Or just the switch in the salon. Thanks!
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I only have the breaker in the salon electrical cabinet
 
Ok thanks. I wanted to confirm that there wasn’t another fuse in the circuit.
 
Ok, I have an update. 13.1V is getting to the water pump, so it looks to be a pump failure and/or a famous pressure switch failure. Looking at the pump itself, it’s only a 3GPM Shurflo, which was put in my my maintenance guy last year. It’s obviously underpowered. Looking at the manual, the original pump was a 5.7 GPM Shurflo. Which new pump would you recommend?

In addition, has anyone updated the blue water filter that is next to the water heater? If so, what is the recommended replacement?

Thanks so much for all of your help!

Tom
 
tshannoz said:
Ok, I have an update. 13.1V is getting to the water pump, so it looks to be a pump failure and/or a famous pressure switch failure. Looking at the pump itself, it’s only a 3GPM Shurflo, which was put in my my maintenance guy last year. It’s obviously underpowered. Looking at the manual, the original pump was a 5.7 GPM Shurflo. Which new pump would you recommend?

In addition, has anyone updated the blue water filter that is next to the water heater? If so, what is the recommended replacement?

Thanks so much for all of your help!

Tom
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The Pentair Aqua King is as good as any pump. That's what I have and no issues at all over about five years of use so far.
Regarding the filter - I change the pleated element every year after the system gets chlorinated, that's it. Under the galley sink I have an Activated Charcoal filter in the cold water line. We use that water for coffee and other consumption; it helps the taste and purity of the water. Same at my house BTW.
 
SKybolt said:
Shurflo is a good pump, if you get the right one for the job. I have the Jabsco Par-Max, it's 40 or 60 PSI and is 6GPM flo. I have the 60 PSI version, it's like being at home.

https://defender.com/en_us/jabsco-par-max-hd6-marine-freshwater-delivery-pump
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I have the same pump, the pressure is like being at home . We can run both showers at the same time and no issues with pressure. Downfall is we use more water but we are not far from a dock much so not an issue for us.
 
Jeremygavin said:
I have the same pump, the pressure is like being at home . We can run both showers at the same time and no issues with pressure. Downfall is we use more water but we are not far from a dock much so not an issue for us.
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When I first got my boat I had two Shurflo pumps, 4.5 GHP, that operated at the same time. One got really hot from a slow leak and seized up and I moved to this pump. But I didn't notice any more or less water usage. I haven't had any issues running low and I stay out 3-4 days in a row on anchor at times, showering every day and washing Cody (Lab) off as well. But I guess the larger GPH does imply more water usage.
 
SKybolt said:
When I first got my boat I had two Shurflo pumps, 4.5 GHP, that operated at the same time. One got really hot from a slow leak and seized up and I moved to this pump. But I didn't notice any more or less water usage. I haven't had any issues running low and I stay out 3-4 days in a row on anchor at times, showering every day and washing Cody (Lab) off as well. But I guess the larger GPH does imply more water usage.
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I have 2 daughters and a wife on the boat with me so may just be an issue of them using too much water more than the pump providing more!
 
Seriously. Thank you all so much! This forum is literally THE BEST.

I am going to purchase a 6+ GPM pump due to the reasons mentioned above. Quick question - what PSI do you recommend? My boat is a 2005, so I do not want to blow things up. Haha.

In addition, for the post-pump filter, what pleated sheets do you recommend? I am using the stock, blue vertical cylinder style filter located just after the pump.

Also, are there any precautions I need to take to protect this pump when I switch back and forth between city water and the onboard tank? I want to make sure I have set the bypass features correctly.

Tom
 
tshannoz said:
Seriously. Thank you all so much! This forum is literally THE BEST.

I am going to purchase a 6+ GPM pump due to the reasons mentioned above. Quick question - what PSI do you recommend? My boat is a 2005, so I do not want to blow things up. Haha.

In addition, for the post-pump filter, what pleated sheets do you recommend? I am using the stock, blue vertical cylinder style filter located just after the pump.

Also, are there any precautions I need to take to protect this pump when I switch back and forth between city water and the onboard tank? I want to make sure I have set the bypass features correctly.

Tom
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The plumbing should handle 60psi no problem. My recommendation is to not use the city water connection. I use my water tank exclusively and refill when empty. This way the water in the fresh water tank is always circulating and stays fresh. To make filling the water tank easier, I cut about a foot off the end of a hose and connect that to my shore water hose, then put that end of the hose into the water tank opening so that I don’t have to hold it while it’s filling. I just put it in and walk away until it starts overflowing.
 
Very interesting. I could see switching back and forth between city and tank water being tough in the pump. Also, always having fresh water in your tank is a big plus. Is not using the city water hookup a fairly common practice? It makes total sense.
 
tshannoz said:
Very interesting. I could see switching back and forth between city and tank water being tough in the pump. Also, always having fresh water in your tank is a big plus. Is not using the city water hookup a fairly common practice? It makes total sense.
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I follow Jeremy’s practice as well to keep cycling water through the tank. Also some folks do not like the risk of accidentally leaving the fresh water connected and turned on. If a fitting released inside the boat you could have water flowing inside at a high rate when you are not around.

It is slightly more work to keep filling the tank but if you were staying at a slip for long term maybe it makes sense to connect and diligently turn off each time you leave.
 
It's a little more work, but my water attachment at the pedestal always seemed to leak and keep the dock wet so I got in the habit of using the tank.
 
Once again, thanks so much for this tip. I will switch over once my new 6 GPH pump arrives.
 
tshannoz said:
Once again, thanks so much for this tip. I will switch over once my new 6 GPH pump arrives.
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One more thing to watch - The hose fittings SR used throughout the boat have a tendency to start leaking at the crimp ferrule. The hose ID was a bit larger than the barb fitting and they relied on the crimp of the brass ferrule to swage the hose down on the barbs. Not a good application. Raising the system pressure may create issues in these fittings. So, make it a routine to look for water leaks wherever those fittings are. And they are everywhere....
Several of us have posted methods to fix the issue.
 
What PSI would you recommend for the system? I don’t want to raise and cause issues.
 
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