Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Bucit said:
Gravel, 3 out of the 4 will come out. The other one (if I remember correctly is on the bottom right, closest to the bow) is the one that cannot be removed. Take the other 3 out (7/16" wrench) and loosen the other one. The cover will hang there but won't be in your way. If it's easier you can remove the 3 and totoally unscrew the last one and remove the whole pump housing so it's easier to change the impeller. Not a bad job, probably takes 10-15 minutes max.
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Yes, did the same job in the Spring, and seem to remember it was straightforward. Nothing like the drive engine impeller, which was a PITA!
 
Sorry to tag this to a previous thread but I could not figure out how to start a new one. I just bought an 03 280 Dual Engine with 5.0L Bravo III's. Just about 500 hours on the pair. I bought it from the 2nd owner who seemed to take care of things pretty good. After my third 1 hour boat ride in my area Delta, BC, Canada I noticed red fluid in the bilge on my post ride inspection.
fluid.jpg
Looks most like Transmission fluid but as best I can tell this boat doesn't really have a true transmission. I am contacting a mobile mechanic but would love if anyone has seen this before you let me know. All other fluid levels seem fine. Power Steering, Trim Tab, Coolant etc..

Ron
2003 Sea Ray Sundancer 280 - Lil Dancer
 
Is it oily or watery? If watery it could be coolant from your generator (if you have one).
 
Question for everyone with the twin 4.3 setup. I have the MPI engines and they run great. However starting is sometimes an issue. You can leave the boat for a day, week, or month and the engines start with no problem. The issue occurs after running the engines from anywhere from 5 minutes to 2 hours. If I shut them down to anchor, refuel, etc. they won't restart without giving the throttle some gas (like you would have to on carbonated engines). They start right back up when doing so but being MPI this shouldn't really ever need done. Occasionally at idle speed one engine will stall when shifting out of forward or reverse. I'm not sure if the two are related or if anyone else has experienced this.

Thanks for any help in advance.
 
Sguignet said:
Question for everyone with the twin 4.3 setup. I have the MPI engines and they run great. However starting is sometimes an issue. You can leave the boat for a day, week, or month and the engines start with no problem. The issue occurs after running the engines from anywhere from 5 minutes to 2 hours. If I shut them down to anchor, refuel, etc. they won't restart without giving the throttle some gas (like you would have to on carbonated engines). They start right back up when doing so but being MPI this shouldn't really ever need done. Occasionally at idle speed one engine will stall when shifting out of forward or reverse. I'm not sure if the two are related or if anyone else has experienced this.

Thanks for any help in advance.
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Sounds like it could be IACs going bad. Thought it might be vapor lock until you described the stalling when shifting. This is an easy fix. See post #8 inthe thread below. This is for a 5.0MPI but the IAC setup and parts will be the same for you. Be sure to change the "IAC muffler" too.

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/36072-Impeller-IAC
 
Right!
And make sure to lookup the IAC on Rockauto.com

You'll have to get the .90 cents mufflers from a marine store, but you'll be saving tons on the IACs.

Unplug harness, remove 2 bolts, pull IAC up.
Reverse steps for install.



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Does anyone know of a company that makes winter boat covers for a 280 with arch?
 
Madifonzo said:
Does anyone know of a company that makes winter boat covers for a 280 with arch?
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Any canvas shop should be able to make one but it will probably set you back a good bit. I was thinking a lot of people up north just had the boat shrink wrapped for the winter?
 
I was trying to be environmentally safe and also figured the canvas cover would last a long time and eventually pay for its self. However, given the amount of snow we get I have been told shrink wrap repels it better. So going with shrink wrap.
 
Madifonzo said:
I was trying to be environmentally safe and also figured the canvas cover would last a long time and eventually pay for its self. However, given the amount of snow we get I have been told shrink wrap repels it better. So going with shrink wrap.
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I had a local shop make one for me 6 years ago for $1500. It has held up fine and have never had any problems with snow or ice buildup in Iowa. Definitely will pay for itself. I would look around for boats that have custom covers and see if the canvas shop's tag is on it.
 
Madifonzo said:
I was trying to be environmentally safe and also figured the canvas cover would last a long time and eventually pay for its self. However, given the amount of snow we get I have been told shrink wrap repels it better. So going with shrink wrap.
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If you have a canvas cover made it needs to be high enough to let the snow just fall off, instead of weighing down the canvas, which will eventually cave in with the weight. I had that problem on my last boat. It was a PITA, having to use a push broom after every snowfall. It was worse being away on vacation, having to about snow accumulating on the cover. When they shrink wrap, they use 2x4s to get the wrap up high enough that the snow can't pool. As you mentioned, the shrink wrap is a lot more slippery than the canvas, so the snow tends not to stick as much.
A friend re-uses his shrink wrap, but it's on a 24 foot pontoon boat. I suppose it's possible, but it would be a lot harder to do on a 280. BTW, if you shrink wrap and want access to inside the boat, be sure you use a 48" door. I used a 36" door last year and it was no fun crawling in through what I thought would be a large enough door.
 
What size plow anchor was stock on the 280s? I have been told a 14lb lewmar delta and also a 22lb. I bought a 22lb generic brand plow and it does not the fit the factory roller at all. Looks like a lewmar shape will fit better but want to make sure before ordering one in. Thanks.
 
Fishing pole holders were discussed a while back. I went with the SeaSucker below instead of drilling large holes in my boat. It fits perfect and I can tilt it forward when my back slant canvas is up so it will still hold our rods.

08A98CA7-E3F2-49AD-ACCD-890514931BE3-936-0000017482B27516_zps1aa07df7.jpg


Fits over here too.
0BC96017-2427-4D76-A4F3-C553AA53AC5B-936-00000174711EA606_zpsa73c8149.jpg
 
breakitout said:
What size plow anchor was stock on the 280s? I have been told a 14lb lewmar delta and also a 22lb. I bought a 22lb generic brand plow and it does not the fit the factory roller at all. Looks like a lewmar shape will fit better but want to make sure before ordering one in. Thanks.
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It is a 22/25lb Plow Anchor. You dont say what year your 280 is but if it is 03-09 you will want to use the original Kodiak 25lb Anchor. Many people have reported problems getting other anchors to seat properly without moving or replacing the anchor chute. They are only available from South Coast Marine out of FL. Phone- 727-573-4821 . I bought one from them a couple years ago when I lost mine. Great customer service and fair prices.
 
Hey everyone. The past two weekends all of a sudden I cannot get on plane normally. Even with just myself in the boat. This is what is happening. I have twin 4.3s. I push both throttles as usually but the port engine rpms race all the way up 4400 and I have to quickly lower them down to match starboard. Then basically they both sit around 3500 rpm slowly trying to plow through. Then once planing even at WOT I can only reach speeds of 29mph. I didn't even have canvass on last week. At the dock I checked with my hands to feel the props. No barnacles on them. Could the boat be that dirty on the bottom?
 
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