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Scott - shoot me a PM - so we don't derail this too far :)

The 245's were great boats. The reason you're not finding much info on them, though, is they just weren't a big "seller". At the time, the Sundancer version of that 245 wasn't much more money, but the Sundancer offered the midcabin, being a "cruiser" rather than a "cuddy".

Look at the batteries - it's very easy to tell a starting battery from a deep cycle. As the B-ball coach said, typically the stbd side performs double duty as starting AND house. You could look in the owner's manual, in the electrical diagrams section, to see how it came from the factory. It...

Quite a few Sea Rays do - I honestly can't say for sure if your boat does, though.

Every item will have either a breaker or a fuse. Start by looking at your 12VC breaker panel - you may have more than one. These could be in the cockpit, cabin or even in the bilge. You know your boat better than me so you likely already know where these are. Most likely, this will be on...

Did you try doing what we suggested above about contacting Sea Ray? And did you see my comment about who the manufacturer might be? And/or talk with a vinyl repair company as mentioned above?

Definitely NOT a common problem. Not to say it can't happen, but I've never seen that... and I see a LOT of boats. Along with Bill's question can we assume this is a fuel injected engine? I would start by checking all connections that were touched during whatever it was that was worked on...

I do not have the answer. But my first thought is to cash in some of it and see what happens. If they're legitimate, it should be a quick and easy process.

Shaps, you're right - I don't "need" the help... but I do appreciate the comment - that was nice to read (along with the other member's comments, as well!) :) Dave, I really don't know what got you in a tizzy, but sure - you're entitled to your own opinion. You did go overboard, though -...

Once it's there, no one will know it wasn't meant to be there in the first place. It's been a little while since I installed one for someone - I "think" there's enough give in the black rubber of the latch that the trim doesn't need to be trimmed. But if it is needed, it will still look fine...

Thanks, Dan!

First thing to check... open up the sprayer and check to see if the screen is clogged.

Well that's much better than the old way! Are the screws through some type of small grommet? I've seen that method used on some fishing boats.

OK, thanks. It's a really good, solid boat - but the one thing that hurts it is the seating plan - great for seating, not so much for "quick hole shot" when it's just an Alpha. The seating plan's wonderful design actually hurts performance because it sort of forces people to sit in the back of...

If the boat was a total loss 6 months after purchasing, you would want a value equal to replacement cost, right? I can't imagine you would want to insure it for less than you just paid only to "be out" $XXXX for the sake of $X per year.

How much watersports do you plan to do and how many people would you typically have with you and, excuse the forwardness... but it does matter... are they of the extra large type? What drive does it have?

I would imagine your backrest is attached the same way my 260DA's was... screwed from the backside (bilge). You have get down in the bilge... then reach up to get to the screws. Just to double check... Use a credit card (or similar) and feel between the cushion and fiberglass for fasteners...

FYI, thru-hulls aren't measured by the FITTING'S ID - it's measured based on the hose ID (or the OD of the barb). Just mentioning that to maybe check your hose ID.

Can you find something with a different OD? Meaning, that part doesn't really matter - it can be larger... it can be smaller, to an extent.

Seriously? I've taken my own time to try and help give you guys as much pertinent information about your models that I know... and becasue I don't want to spend an hour researching a very minor thing that really has no impact on you guys, anyways... I get this?