Search results

Try the props you currently have and watch the tach. This way you get good data for new props if you need them. I switched engines in a 2005 300 Sundancer 305 to 350 cu. and the stock 22p bravo 3 props were perfect.

Do a leak down test, tuliped valves would be my guess. I had a similar issue this spring and it was the valves. If the you lug the engine it will build cylinder temperature and the valves will pull up into the seats and lose compression. I was shocked when it happened to me because I don’t hot...

I had a similar issue. First time in the water for two years the bilge pump would run every 10 minutes. Then the water leak would slow down to once every 12 hours or so. It ended up being the steering shaft seal. I am not sure exactly why but my steering pin was pretty rusted and the seal was...

I believe one connects to the high pressure pump (cool fuel 2) and there should be a mating connector in the vicinity of the oil pressure sending unit.

Do yourself a favor and do a compression test. At minimum you will sleep better knowing you have a healthy engine. If you have 1 or 2 weak cylinders you won’t get full rpm.

I would appreciate if anyone has a 300 Sundancer and knows how to remove the engine hatch. (Mines a 2005 model) I removed the rear seat and unattached the ram. The hatch goes back almost vertical but seems like the hinge is being stressed a lot. If anyone has had their engines removed I would...

I should've stated that mine are Raw Water cooled. I'm coming to the same conclusion. I may have to start unhooking hoses and back flushing. Thanks for your reply!!

I am stumped! I've tried everything I can think of. I have 2005 300 Sundancer 5 liter MPI Bravo 3s. Both motors have high seawater pressure. 10 PSI at idle. And up to 40 PSI cruising. New Sea Water pumps and new pressure sensors, new exhaust manifolds and risers. Thermostat housings...

Hi we launch our 05. 300 Sundancer regularly. Everyone says... "Wow". In disbelief. But it's not bad at all. We trailer it every week.