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Update- checked the heat exchanger pressures with a radiator tester. Results: Stbd (over heating motor) pumped up to 16 PSI. It took 12 minutes to go down to 10 PSI. Released pressure to zero then started motor. Ran at idle, it took 8 minutes to get to 145 degrees and 7.5 PSI. held steady, no...

I just got to thinking and wondering if someone before me put some "head gasket" in a can in the motor and it finally crapped out? Almost forgot oil fine eng runs a 3800 rpm easily now that choke is fixed, I think it may have been a little short of that mark before.

It overheats when under power. At home running on a water hose temps run 145 degrees at idle. Here's what I've done since early last year: freshwater impellor ( impellor was fine, pliable not broken), engine water pump, cleaned heat exchanger for water cooling, 145 degree thermostat both...

Everything I've read says that under a load overheat is caused by manifolds and risers too. I just know i'm gonna break some bolts and have to pull heads. I replaced the left bank manifold and riser already. I am going to flush the cooling system and inspect the heat exchanger first and if...

Well here's where I'm at. Took boat out after cleaning riser up, filing surfaces flat and replacing riser gasket (solid one, fresh water cooled engines). All that has been done has helped. I could run the engines at 3,000 rpm and they starboard engine went to about 185 to 200 and the port stayed...

I am a newby boat owner so I dont know what maintenance is over due. I replaced the raw water pump (impeller was in great shape, pliable and nothing missing), all the hose are in good shape not to pliable or hard and cracked, new thermostat and water pump (I didn't think the water pump was bad...

when I pulled the engine recirculating pump the coolant auto replaced. I use the boat in a lake and pulled the strainers to clean them and there wasn't any debris in the strainers or hoses going to the raw water pump. The only thing in the engine is antifreeze and water. Anything I could find...

both engines run 145 degrees at idle. The port engine runs a little warmer at running speeds. I pulled the right bank riser and it appears as if the riser was plugged up. Not completely but pretty bad. I could see where it appeared as if the gasket could have been leaking between the gasket and...

1989 300 Weekender, 454 mercruiser, closed cooling system. started overheating last year. Here's what I've done: 1. found the left bank manifold had a whole in it at the #5 cylinder due to a leak between the riser and gasket, leaking and dripping salt water into the manifold directly into the #5...

Did you keep her? That is the wife I mean.

Do you have a reset button for the compressor? There should be at least a high pressure cut out switch on the refrigerant line and some run/start capacitors for the compressor. There is also a relay that has to close for power to go to the compressor and water pump when the thermostat calls for...

On my boat both alternators feed the isolator which distributes the charging voltage to the batteries as needed. The batteries should be about the same voltage or something isn't right. I doubt shorting a battery for just a short amount of time isn't going to hurt anything unless the battery...

On my boat both alternators feed the isolator which distributes the charging voltage to the batteries as needed. The batteries should be about the same voltage or something isn't right. I doubt shorting a battery for just a short amount of time isn't going to hurt anything unless the battery...

If you have bypassed the oil pressure switch with a jumper, pull the jumper wire off the oil pressure switch wires and check for 12 vdc on one of the wires. If you don't have 12vdc on one of the wires you have lost the voltage that allows the generator to run without the "on switch" being held...

Sounds like you may have more than one problem, if the fuse doesn't blow with the oil pressure switch out of circuit but does when the oil pressure switch is in circuit I would replace it. If you still have to hold the run switch you still have another problem. Are you using a remote panel or...

You got it right. Never weighed the boat and trailer. The boat doesn't really settle back aft (move) it just sets down where it sets down. I don't know how much tongue wt. I have, you can tell when you are towing if your boat is too far back on the trailer. It took me a few tries to find the...

I trailer my 300 weekender. Biggest problem for me was getting it on the trailer. Don't back too far in the water. I found it is easier to back the trailer in the water just enough to pull the bow of the boat into the center bunks (I use a dock line running through the eyelet for the anchor...

Brilliant find and fix. Safety is paramount. I just heard about people getting shocked in the water swimming around boats in marinas, but would never have thought about an OEM wiring issue. My mind was drawn to faulty galvanic isolators.

You should replace parallel batteries all at once, a weak battery will drain a good one. If you replaced one battery of a pair of batteries, they won't stay charged.

If there are two wires on the oil pressure sensor it sounds as if it isn't an oil pressure sensor but the oil pressure switch. It will be open until the generator has run long enough to build up oil pressure (this is why you hold the run switch while starting the generator). If you disconnect...