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Welcome, welcome!

Just wanted to jump in and say thanks! Here if anyone needs any help.

Really beautiful work!

You can if you'd like, Matt but it is not necessary. They're sealed and ready to go (whether you buy them from us or anyone else).

Ideally, this would be true! But we're only able to offer a few magnesium pencil anodes - there's just not a lot of variety on the pencil zinc side of things at this point in time. That 3116 kit linked to earlier in the thread by GnrlPatton is your best bet. Use magnesium everywhere else, of...

Thanks, Keith! A lot of lifts wind up with T-20's on them, so that's my first guess. If those look too small, check out the T-21 or the M-24 instead. Let me know!

Guys, this means a lot to us, thank you so much!

Hello! For more than sixteen years (!!!) now, BoatZincs.com has been the savvy boater's go-to source for Mil-Spec zinc, aluminum, and magnesium anodes. We pride ourselves on being the industry experts on marine corrosion control. We're as proud of our expansive inventory - anything you see on...

Doing exactly that - using aluminum for everything you can but zinc in the engine - will represent your best bet. The anodes in your engine are isolated from all other anodes, so there's no risk of you mixing alloys. And of course, aluminum is ideal for brackish water so you are doing the...

This is true! Assuming that your engines are properly grounded together. Out of the factory, they're engineered this way, they're perfect, 100%. The heavy lifting on corrosion control is done by that hull plate. Folks with new Sea Rays tend to forgo shaft anodes. But it is exceedingly...