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Replaced wires and plugs about a year ago

The boat was running fine on Sunday. All stats were good according to Vesselview. It seemed a little louder (more than usual) at 2000 rpm but at 3300 it ran perfectly. Got back near my slip and the engine died at idle. It wouldn't start & I got towed in but 1/2 hour later it started and would...

Been battling an engine stalling issue just out of blue. Starts, runs for a minute then dies. I can wait a few minutes, same thing over and over. (8.1 engines with Gen 3 newer fuel cool) Long story short, I switch fuel cool modules from the good engine to bad, now it runs fine. "bad module"...

I have a GPH fuel burn gauge and this “meter” is on the bulkhead with fuel going through it. One for each engine. looks like this...

Ok thanks. I’ve never noticed them but haven’t really looked specifically. I’m going to try and run engine from a gas can first. If it’s fine then I’m going to use a primer bulb (with key on) and see if in can get flow from fuel system before fuel cooler. before doing this I’m going to change...

this is perfect!! Thanks for sharing. I am 99% sure I have the original setup. I do have all new lines but nothing else was changed. Thanks!!

Ok I don't remember seeing anything there. I see the flow meter on the bulk head (which could be an issue too) but I'll have to follow the fuel line all around and see if I can locate it.

I am chasing a fuel issue (I think) and with new fuel pumps in the cool fuel module, they are running at key On, still no fuel. I probably need to prime the line and I will check the water sep/filter for water but now I'm questioning the anti siphon valve. I believe mine is connected to the...

I did switch out IAC and nothing changed. I tried removing the crank position sensor but its really in there! I need a different tool to pry it out. I'm going to try a door panel removal tool which is the right bend on it. I have the sensor on order. I've ordered a few possible cheaper parts...

My engine has just 270 hours. Salt water boat & installed in 2016. I was going about 6 mph for 30 minutes and one engine just died. It would crank but not start. After I got into the slip I tried again and it did start for 30 seconds or so and then died. The longer I let it sit, it seemed like...

Awesome, thank you!

So any idea how to test it? Hooking up 12v and then just switching wires?

I'm just trying to understand how it works before i do my installation. I have a hydraulic pump for an old autopilot system that I will keep using (with new electronics). But the thing that confuses me is it's just 2 wires (12v) going to it. I don't understand how it knows to "pump" towards...

ok thanks! Mine is also twin inboard with 8.1 engines. I'll do some investigating this weekend when I'm down at the boat and see what I can find (whats good and what isn't) along with the pump info and cylinder ram size. Now I know where to start at least!

ok, if you have a 410 and the EV 150 system then I know it should work for mine! I would probably get the whole system for $2k instead of trying to use the old pump. I don't even know if it works to be honest.

ok that makes sense. So the boat does have a pump back there. Its the one thing I looked over when fixing 100 hundred things but now that everything is done I can focus on this. So the question remains, can I use my existing pump and a system that is all new? this is the one I am really...

Also, I'm assuming since my boat has hydraulic steering then I don't need this additional pump. The AP system just ties into the existing system that the boat has? I'm not really sure how autopilot works, its the one thing I haven't messed with on the boat. But I don't see why autopilot would...

So I have a 1995 370 sundancer searay (twin engine stern drive) with B&G equipment which most doesn't work. Only thing that works actually is the depth gauge. The boat has autopilot but it was unhooked down at the linkage. I can get the system to turn on but the compass reading on the screen...

Update to this. It's never the easiest thing that fixes is but this time it was! A new Merc sensor and all works perfectly again. A whole 3 minute job. But now I see the other side is reading low and the sensor may soon fail so I probably need to switch that one out also.

Found this to do the water volume test. volume output test on the water pump. To do this you need to remove the pumps output side hose, and if necessary, replace it with a longer one to do the test. What you need to do is put the boat in the water (this will not work on a flushing device)...