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I think I'm going to leave the tanks empty and see what happens. I could go put $400 - $500 of fuel in it but then again, it's empty, clean, and dry.

I know the topic of filling up or keeping where it's at is always debated. Mine is a fully empty and dry tank with no gas whatsoever in it.

I had my fuel tank drained and cleaned 2 months ago due to water in the tank. Due to some things going on, we have not had a chance to get back out on the water and it doesn't seem like we will be able to the rest of this season. So I was going to go ahead and winterize the boat while it's...

Ah okay, I didn't know if there would be any design changes inside or out. If a 2001 and a 2003 are apples to apples regarding options, maintenance, hours, etc. Would it be worth it to spend more money on a newer year and MPI over EFI?

We just bought a 30' slip and naturally we want to maximize the slip and get our moneys worth . So we're looking at getting into a 280. Looking between 2001 - 2005. Are there any big differences or changes between the two besides EFI and MPI motors?

I appreciate all the help. They weren't really much help when I explained the situation.

The front of the main bunks are raised up. The current front V bunk guide is not adjustable, unless I shim it way up. That's why I was going to get the front target bunks that are adjustable. That way the bow does not nose dive and hit the stand, coming on and off the trailer... Hopefully

I've tried different ways, angles, trailer depth. Unless it's in a certain amount, I cannot push or pull the boat off the trailer. I was advised against the keel roller and was told to try the target bunks instead. The front of the main bunks have already been raised up when the trailer was set...

I've tried different ways, angles, trailer depth. Unless it's in a certain amount, I cannot push or pull the boat off the trailer. I was advised against the keel roller and was told to try the target bunks instead. The front of the main bunks have already been raised up when the trailer was set...

Yeah that sounds like it's on the person and not because of power loading. Not saying power loading doesn't cause problems but if you use common sense about it then it's easy peasy.

I'm trying to figure out how that would even happen, lol. Everybody is different and everybody should do what works for them. I know when I power load, my boat is obviously tied to the dock so I can go get the truck and trailer. I put the trailer in where it needs to be and then get back on the...

Yup, I've always power loaded this boat and my previous 270se.

Bennett was telling me I needed to replace the actuators and for that cost, I just purchased the electric conversion kit and I'll see how that does.

I never used to either until we got a bigger boat. I had no problem with my 215. This new 260 is way bigger and heavier. I think I'm going to get the target bunk kit for my trailer and see how that works.

I guess I'll look into a keel roller and hope that helps. Trust me, I want the winch stand in it's original location. I also want to be able to use my boat and not spend an hour and countless tries when I load and unload.

Putting giant shims could work. My only fear would be, what would cause it to not have the same problem my bow rest is having. Which is tearing the carpet and digging off my bottom paint.

The anchor only hits when the stand is in the original location. With the roller against the hull and lined up with the bow eye. I could cut the stand, but the anchor doesn't hit the excess stand, it hits the winch and roller.

Looking at pictures, my forward V bunk is not adjustable. It is bolted to the crossmember that is also non adjustable. So I would not be able to raise that up to help.

I would agree, but that's why they make and I purchased the bow rest. It technically does it's job, it's just wearing carpet and digging bottom paint.

I will see if I can raise the front V bunk. I did not see an adjustment on the front side, so I'll look on the back side, under the boat. Scotty215. Refer to post 15