So my built in vacuum on my 99' 380 has a tendency to randomly turn on and off for no particular reason. There's obviously a short on the switch mechanism. I'm just curious whether anyone else has experienced a similar problem?
Sorry, I don't mean to beat up this topic, but I'm just wondering whether anyone who had been experiencing problems with their tachometer actually found the cause to be the sender unit on the flywheel? I would hate to assume the tach is faulty when its actually a malfunctioning or dirty sender...
I'm not worried about convincing the next buyer that I have more hours than what's showing on the stbd meter. Usually if anyone is going to be dishonest, it is to show less hours rather than more. I can also point to the port engine hours, as I always run both engines together. I suppose its...
Thanks for the comments. I realize 580 hrs would be a month on the bench, but if it works that would be ok. I'll check out the selector switches and see if they do anything to correct the erratic behaviour. The problem with going to the Aetna units is that when I bought the boat I was...
Hello all. Need to replace my cooktop glass. Anyone happen to have one lying around before I order replacement from Kenyon? Model is Mediterranean Large.
Thx.
Yellovette, (Ed)
I have a brand new tach for my 99 380DA, which I intend to swap for the starboard one which is erratic and working correctly only part time. My concern is that the new tach has 0 hrs. showing for run time and I would really like to have the correct engine hrs. on it.
Has anyone ever dealt with...
For the genny I bought a good starting battery, not deep cycle as it will never serve the purpose of a house battery. I chose my other five batteries as deep cycle, BUT calculated the cranking amps so that when connected in parallel I had a minimum of 1500 CCA required to start the CATS.
Most marine supply stores carry them. Try Defender Marine (online) they're one of the cheapest. You can also order direct from Reverso, but you'll need to know your model no.
Oh thanks. I was trying to identify the part number as there's no model number on the pump. I thought it might be an OP4 or OP6 which take p/n 360014 or 38-2314. I was going to take a look at a replacement impeller before ordering.
Just learned something new yesterday. Started to do an oil change on my stbd engine but the reverso pump wasn't sucking oil. Took the end cover off and found that there was a small rubber impeller which had four broken blades.
Research revealed that there are actually recommendations that...
Well, I just completed a maintenance task that I was dreading. Replaced three raw water impellers, two on the mains, (3116 Cats) and one on the Genny, (7.6 Westerbeke). The port engine with the sea pump on the alleyway only took about an hour. the stbd. on the other hand took about ten hours...
You're absolutely right. I learned years ago to only buy the impellers with the threaded openings. Makes removal super easy. Yes, also removed the oil sender for access. My cover plate was fine. My engines only have 550 original hours so not much wear. I did learn some time ago, the trick...
Thanks for the tip on getting the exhaust pipe off. I will definitely do that. that was a bit of a concern. No problem on loosing the key on the port engine side.
Recently changed the impeller on my portside Cat 3116. Not too bad a job as it was accessible from the alleyway between the two engines. Next will be the starboard side. This one looks like it'll be a real PITA. I'm thinking I'll have to remove the exhaust pipe to get to the raw water pump...
Thanks, I saw that P/N on the SeaRay parts manual but it is not a Kenyon P/N. I will wind up pulling the stove, for now I am six hours driving away, so will have to wait n see.
Oh THANK YOU for that explanation! That makes a lot of sense now that you've explained. I know there is a warning that damage could occur if they are turned off while the engines are running, so this safeguard does make sense.