1975 Sea Ray SRV-220

[Colten Langewicz]

Hi everyone just joined the club, I gotta ‘75 sea ray cuddy cabin 220 and I bought it in June 2020. I’m 18 years old and this is my first boat. I don’t really have any knowledge on the boat itself as it’s very old and I haven’t found barely any info on it. Does anybody know where I can find parts to replace things for this? The motor is another puzzle I need to figure out, it’s a 351 Ford Windsor I believe the 5.8L? I don’t know where to buy parts for the motor and don’t know if it’s a certain generation that won’t have the same parts as a newer model. Any info and help is appreciated, thank you!

 

[nelson Gay]

Hi everyone just joined the club, I gotta ‘75 sea ray cuddy cabin 220 and I bought it in June 2020. I’m 18 years old and this is my first boat. I don’t really have any knowledge on the boat itself as it’s very old and I haven’t found barely any info on it. Does anybody know where I can find parts to replace things for this? The motor is another puzzle I need to figure out, it’s a 351 Ford Windsor I believe the 5.8L? I don’t know where to buy parts for the motor and don’t know if it’s a certain generation that won’t have the same parts as a newer model. Any info and help is appreciated, thank you!

Join the official searay owners from searay.com lots of manuals there

 

[Ike]

For the engines and drives you need Mercruiser Service Manual #2. It covers 1974-1977 all engines and drives. There used to be a free site but it stopped working when Adobe Flash Player stopped working. I don't know if they will fix that. It's just a pdf. Anyway you can get service manuals at various vendors on-line.
http://www.instant-manual.com/mercruiser-inboard---sterndrive---outdrive-manuals.html
https://www.911manual.com/download-mercruiser-repair-manuals/ (this one is a pay site, 6.99)
http://www.marineengine.com/manuals...c&utm_campaign=Manuals&utm_content=Mercruiser

and of course there is ebay https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...rcruiser+service+manual+#2+1974-1977&_sacat=0

Some of the prices are ridiculous.

 

[Alex7]

Thanks for the suggestions @Ike

For me, that instant-manual.com link sent me to the 911manual.com site. I was looking for a manual for my 1977 Sea Ray 220CC with a Mercruiser 898, which I just picked up this month.

I ended up buying a manual off ebay. Ended up very affordable ($7.62) for the Manual #2. So far, this manual looks like a match so I'm happy. This seller only sells PDF format manuals. They message you a link to where you download the pdf and you can print out if you want.

 

[Ike]

Glad you found one.

 

[76SeaRay]

Are you located anywhere near Washington State. I am restoring a 1976 SRV 220 OV HT (Overnighter Hardtop). I am changing to a GM 5.7L Vortec engine and a Mercruiser Alpha One Drive so I have the left over Windsor 351 parts almost complete engine. This was an OMC and those parts that I have are junk... Engine parts are salvageable I think and are free to you if you can pick them up...

A marine engine is different from a truck engine in the marine cam and all the parts that hang on a long block are marine.. Don't use any auto parts for the alternator, carburetor, starter, air cleaner (spark arrestor), and fuel pump.. You must use marine parts for those...

 

[Colten Langewicz]

Are you located anywhere near Washington State. I am restoring a 1976 SRV 220 OV HT (Overnighter Hardtop). I am changing to a GM 5.7L Vortec engine and a Mercruiser Alpha One Drive so I have the left over Windsor 351 parts almost complete engine. This was an OMC and those parts that I have are junk... Engine parts are salvageable I think and are free to you if you can pick them up...

A marine engine is different from a truck engine in the marine cam and all the parts that hang on a long block are marine.. Don't use any auto parts for the alternator, carburetor, starter, air cleaner (spark arrestor), and fuel pump.. You must use marine parts for those...

Sadly I’m in Michigan, but I’d love to know where you bought parts from when you looked for them, my engine isn’t running great and I’m not sure weather to entirely swap or to try and build up the 351 it already has

 

[76SeaRay]

I never rebuilt the engine I have. I got the boat at auction and the engine was in the boat in pieces. What parts are you seeking? If they are just the engine internals then a regular auto parts store should carry what you need. Just tell them that you need pistons, rings, etc. for a 1975 Ford Truck or Car with the 351 engine. The only exception would be the Cam but I don't know what to tell you on that (maybe a truck cam) and you need marine gaskets. Any good auto machine shop knows how to rebuild the 351 Windsor.

My engine had a lot of brackets and other OMC parts (like manifolds, etc.) hanging off it and those are hard to find. My advice since OMC parts are a shear impossibility is to either go to a boat wrecking yard for parts or swap out to a GM 350 or 5.7 liter. It all depends upon what you have to work with. If you have all the OMC parts and they are fine, then just rebuild the engine like you would a car or truck. I am an old Chevy guy from way back so I really don't know much about the 351 Windsor other than I have this one that I won't be using.

OMC stringer outdrive parts are really hard to find and if those are bad you might have to change out to a Mercruiser drive which is a major change to the transom. Mine only had a few OMC drive parts so I replaced the transom and installed a Mercruiser Alpha One cause there was no way to get good quality replacement OMC drive parts (like I needed the whole sterndrive).

The only used boatyard that I know of is Ed's Surplus Boats in Manzanola, Colorado. I got a lot of used parts from him before I moved the boat to Washington State.

 

[Colten Langewicz]

I never rebuilt the engine I have. I got the boat at auction and the engine was in the boat in pieces. What parts are you seeking? If they are just the engine internals then a regular auto parts store should carry what you need. Just tell them that you need pistons, rings, etc. for a 1975 Ford Truck or Car with the 351 engine. The only exception would be the Cam but I don't know what to tell you on that (maybe a truck cam) and you need marine gaskets. Any good auto machine shop knows how to rebuild the 351 Windsor.

My engine had a lot of brackets and other OMC parts (like manifolds, etc.) hanging off it and those are hard to find. My advice since OMC parts are a shear impossibility is to either go to a boat wrecking yard for parts or swap out to a GM 350 or 5.7 liter. It all depends upon what you have to work with. If you have all the OMC parts and they are fine, then just rebuild the engine like you would a car or truck. I am an old Chevy guy from way back so I really don't know much about the 351 Windsor other than I have this one that I won't be using.

OMC stringer outdrive parts are really hard to find and if those are bad you might have to change out to a Mercruiser drive which is a major change to the transom. Mine only had a few OMC drive parts so I replaced the transom and installed a Mercruiser Alpha One cause there was no way to get good quality replacement OMC drive parts (like I needed the whole sterndrive).

The only used boatyard that I know of is Ed's Surplus Boats in Manzanola, Colorado. I got a lot of used parts from him before I moved the boat to Washington State.

I actually have an Alpha Gen 1 on my boat, I’m not even sure what parts I exactly need yet I haven’t had it looked at. I can get the motor running fine and it’ll ride on the water but it overheats after 15 some mins and won’t really go over 25 mph without sputtering and backfiring... I wish I had seen what rpms I was getting when it would happen, but it’s cold here in southeast MI still so I’m gonna need to wait til at least April to even begin the process. It has the original manifolds on there and they’ve been welded several times in the past, idk who did it but they were. I’d like to either find ones to replace it or maybe even a different type of manifold that would work on the motor, I’m not very experienced with marine engines so I’m not sure what’s all gonna work or not, or what I even need to replace yet

 

[Pirate Lady]

Colt, overheating, alpha 1 impeller is in the outdrive. Prolly needs replaced, pita, have to take of apart to get to, that why when they went to Bravo the put it on the engine.

 

[Pirate Lady]

Original manifolds- they could be all clogged and gunked up cause overheating, or bad thermostat. That’s it, nothing besides those 3.

 

[76SeaRay]

Watch out for those manifolds if they have been welded. Welding on cast manifolds almost always causes warping and therefore leaks... Pictures of your engine would be helpful... Also, do you have an Alpha One Gen One or Alpha One Get Two?

 

[Colten Langewicz]

Watch out for those manifolds if they have been welded. Welding on cast manifolds almost always causes warping and therefore leaks... Pictures of your engine would be helpful... Also, do you have an Alpha One Gen One or Alpha One Get Two?

I have the boat at my property up north at the momment, I’m going there this weekend so I’ll make sure to try and get some pictures, I have a alpha one gen one

 

[Colten Langewicz]

Original manifolds- they could be all clogged and gunked up cause overheating, or bad thermostat. That’s it, nothing besides those 3.

Thank you very much, I’ll probably have my manifolds checked when I take the boat to a mechanic, but I think I’ll be able to do the impeller and thermostat on my own. Hoping it is one of these things because they’ll be a cheap and easy fix, aside from the manifolds

 

[Colten Langewicz]

Watch out for those manifolds if they have been welded. Welding on cast manifolds almost always causes warping and therefore leaks... Pictures of your engine would be helpful... Also, do you have an Alpha One Gen One or Alpha One Get Two?

Here’s some pictures of the engine

 

[johnkom]

Hi Colten, I have an 1976 SRV200 and absolutely love it. Unlike fiberglass boats of today it is a tank. Also I like the 351 Windsor. My son let the block crack three winters ago so I put in a new short block from Chicago Engines. Runs hard and smooth. I modified the engine with a Holley four barrel carburetor and a solid state ignition.

 

[DaveKamp]

Hi Colten-

First things first: When you go to lift a MerCruiser 351W out of a boat---

Unbolt the exhaust manifolds, lift them out using the eyelets.
Attach padeyes (flat pieces of steel with one small hole for bolt, one large hole for chain hook) to the exhaust manifold mounting holes with SHORT BOLTS... two padeyes on each side (fore and aft).

Do NOT lift the engine out using padeyes on the manifolds!!!

Reason: After many years of hard work, the cast iron holding those bolts becomes very weak. When you lift the engine, there is a VERY HIGH likelyhood one will break, and then the other will follow, sending the engine straight through the bottom of the hull.

General info: Mercruiser utilized Ford 302 and 351's from 1970 through 1977. Prior to, and after, they used GM 153/181 fours, 194, 230, 250 and 292 inline sixes, and 327 and 350ci V8's. From 77-on, there were 305 and 350ci Chevy small-blocks.

The Ford 302 and 351W engines used same bellhousing, but I THINK the exhaust manifolds and exhaust tubes might have been slightly different... i.e. location moved rearward slightly, but don't trust that. If you look at specs, you'll see that all the FORD engines were identified as rated lower... around 4,400rpm, rather than the GM Marine engine's 4800rpm. The engines MerCruiser used, were spec'd BY MerCruiser as "MARINE" spec... this meant that it was fitted with corrosion-protection commensurate for raw water cooling, a cooling system designed for zero-pressure operation, with incoming raw water temp being as cold as 33F... frost plugs of brass, gaskets of brass or stainless, usually with 'grounding buttons' to limit galvanic issues, electrics all explosion proof, camshaft with minimum overlap so it'll run well with submerged exhaust at idle... and many other things.

The power ratings are 100% duty cycle... meaning, you set it at a given throttle position, and leave it there all day, and it'll survive.

IF you feel there's something wrong with the powerplant, realize that the cost of keeping it original, can become considerably MORE expensive than repowering it with something newer... and while a change will involve getting all the 'right stuff', in the end, you stand to benefit in performance, fuel economy, and parts availablility.

But to address your basic overheating problem, you will MOST LIKELY find that the water tube going from the gimbal to the transom plate, or the tube from transom plate to the engine or power steering cooler, is collapsing on the inside under throttle. This is a common problem of that vintage, as the hose they used in that timeframe would eventually suffer a delamination of the 'inner lining'. I've had FOUR owners of Ford V8 era MerCruisers come to me with your frustration, one had replaced the entire long-block and manifolds... the problem was actually about twelve bucks. It's a PITA to get to, but you can. Look at the gimbal disassembly diagrams, you'll see the hose in there. When you tilt the drive up and hard to port, you'll look, and it looks perfect from the outside. Remove it, install a new one. Replace the OTHER side (from transom plate... which will be MORE DIFFICULT, as you'll need to lay on your back, and reach under the manifold to detach the hose clamp)... and be CAREFUL how you thread the new hose... photo it's path before you pull the old one out, get the new one in right, lest ye foul the shifter/throttle (and prevent op of the the shift interrupt switch) or pinch it with the steering tube when it goes by.

I've pulled out 302 and 351 Mercruisers, and dropped in 5.7's in their place... requires a bellhousing and engine mounts, manifolds and elbows, sometimes exhaust bellows. With boats this old, ALWAYS replace the engine coupler (the GM coupler is different from the Ford, obviously).

The drive is usually same, but double-check the double-cardan's yoke-shaft part number... sometimes there were slight variations. If you need parts for a conversion, don't go buying them... ASK FIRST, some of us have lots of this stuff around, and it needs new homes. ;-) I DO have two Ford V8 donors here (one 302, one 351 IIRC), probably both stuck, but if you're determined to keep 'em 'Forded', you're welcome to them.

 

[Jes2bryant]

Hi Colten-

First things first: When you go to lift a MerCruiser 351W out of a boat---

Unbolt the exhaust manifolds, lift them out using the eyelets.
Attach padeyes (flat pieces of steel with one small hole for bolt, one large hole for chain hook) to the exhaust manifold mounting holes with SHORT BOLTS... two padeyes on each side (fore and aft).

Do NOT lift the engine out using padeyes on the manifolds!!!

Reason: After many years of hard work, the cast iron holding those bolts becomes very weak. When you lift the engine, there is a VERY HIGH likelyhood one will break, and then the other will follow, sending the engine straight through the bottom of the hull.

General info: Mercruiser utilized Ford 302 and 351's from 1970 through 1977. Prior to, and after, they used GM 153/181 fours, 194, 230, 250 and 292 inline sixes, and 327 and 350ci V8's. From 77-on, there were 305 and 350ci Chevy small-blocks.

The Ford 302 and 351W engines used same bellhousing, but I THINK the exhaust manifolds and exhaust tubes might have been slightly different... i.e. location moved rearward slightly, but don't trust that. If you look at specs, you'll see that all the FORD engines were identified as rated lower... around 4,400rpm, rather than the GM Marine engine's 4800rpm. The engines MerCruiser used, were spec'd BY MerCruiser as "MARINE" spec... this meant that it was fitted with corrosion-protection commensurate for raw water cooling, a cooling system designed for zero-pressure operation, with incoming raw water temp being as cold as 33F... frost plugs of brass, gaskets of brass or stainless, usually with 'grounding buttons' to limit galvanic issues, electrics all explosion proof, camshaft with minimum overlap so it'll run well with submerged exhaust at idle... and many other things.

The power ratings are 100% duty cycle... meaning, you set it at a given throttle position, and leave it there all day, and it'll survive.

IF you feel there's something wrong with the powerplant, realize that the cost of keeping it original, can become considerably MORE expensive than repowering it with something newer... and while a change will involve getting all the 'right stuff', in the end, you stand to benefit in performance, fuel economy, and parts availablility.

But to address your basic overheating problem, you will MOST LIKELY find that the water tube going from the gimbal to the transom plate, or the tube from transom plate to the engine or power steering cooler, is collapsing on the inside under throttle. This is a common problem of that vintage, as the hose they used in that timeframe would eventually suffer a delamination of the 'inner lining'. I've had FOUR owners of Ford V8 era MerCruisers come to me with your frustration, one had replaced the entire long-block and manifolds... the problem was actually about twelve bucks. It's a PITA to get to, but you can. Look at the gimbal disassembly diagrams, you'll see the hose in there. When you tilt the drive up and hard to port, you'll look, and it looks perfect from the outside. Remove it, install a new one. Replace the OTHER side (from transom plate... which will be MORE DIFFICULT, as you'll need to lay on your back, and reach under the manifold to detach the hose clamp)... and be CAREFUL how you thread the new hose... photo it's path before you pull the old one out, get the new one in right, lest ye foul the shifter/throttle (and prevent op of the the shift interrupt switch) or pinch it with the steering tube when it goes by.

I've pulled out 302 and 351 Mercruisers, and dropped in 5.7's in their place... requires a bellhousing and engine mounts, manifolds and elbows, sometimes exhaust bellows. With boats this old, ALWAYS replace the engine coupler (the GM coupler is different from the Ford, obviously).

The drive is usually same, but double-check the double-cardan's yoke-shaft part number... sometimes there were slight variations. If you need parts for a conversion, don't go buying them... ASK FIRST, some of us have lots of this stuff around, and it needs new homes. ;-) I DO have two Ford V8 donors here (one 302, one 351 IIRC), probably both stuck, but if you're determined to keep 'em 'Forded', you're welcome to them.

I purchased a 1975 220 srv with the 351 with under 100 hours on the original engine. What would be the benefits of upgrading the engine vs keeping the original? Also it has the pre alpha, any benefits to upgrading to the alpha? And if I don't upgrade engine or outdrive are there specific parts I should be watching for to have to keep the 351 going? I have an opportunity to grab a 240 srv with a 2001 5.0 engine and alpha outdrive for 2200 thought about picking it up as a backup to swap out engine and outdrive if needed or if significant benefits by having newer components although no idea of labor cost to do this. Also have an option to pick up a boat with a 5.7 liter and alpha with a brand new vantage trailer for 5000. One issue I did notice was how difficult it was to control backing up in a direction with wind. Where I dock there will be significant wind often. I'm sure I could use the trim tabs to perhaps help control direction and wasn't sure if the alpha helps at all. Aside from that only other option is thrusters which are $$$.

 

[Pirate Lady]

Backing into slip in cross wind, welcome to the world of single outdrive.
Trim tabs do nothing at docking speeds.
Model of outdrive has zero effect on docking.
Bow thrusters require cutting big holes in the hull, fuggedaboutit.
Practice docking, you’ll be a master in no time.

 

[Jes2bryant]

Good to know that outdrive makes no difference. Someone said once the alphas were better than pre alpha in reverse. I actually dock pulling in forward and have no problem with my sea ray 210. Then back out without but the 210 sometimes struggles which makes me think the sea ray 220 srv with the cabin will be awful because the cabin will be a sail. The problem is the winds are often 20 to 30 mph on open water by my dock. Based on my use of the 220 when I backed up in open water I couldn't get it to go backwards the direction I wanted because of the wind. I know I may have left the trim tabs down and was hoping this was the cause. If I do a thruster it would be external thruster still expensive. My neighbors have fancy new boats with thrusters so they dock fine. The bug concern is if you pull in yiu have ti gran the dock instantly or you get washed on shore. In backing out the wind is concern because if I have no control I'll blow into the rocks. Still wondering if a newer engine or outdrive is worth considering even though both have been hardly used. As I write this winds are blowing 25 mph.