1985 SRV270DA Restoration

Thanks for the epoxy information KC; will check them out.

I just finished building a stitch & glue dinghy and am getting ready to build my next boat, probably a strip plank project this time.

Perhaps I'll give this brand a try.

Cheers
Jeff
 
KC,

You have done some amazing work on your boat and I really appreciate you taking the time to document it the way that you did. I am knee deep in the transom, stringers, and floor on my Sea Ray 200 BR and this exactly what I have been searching for. Again, thanks for the wealth of information posted:thumbsup::smt038. Thanks, Steven
 
Thanks, I'm glad this helped.
Best of luck with your repair - share some pics.
 
KC,
Thanks for sharing everything you have learned here. I recently purchased my 1988 268 and knew that the transom was wet, but I got a great deal on the boat and was willing to do this job.

We are tearing into it now and after reading your post, it is giving me the confidence to do the job.

Thanks again and I'll post on our progress.
 
Posted update:

Replaced alcohol stove and dining table.​

( see top story post )
 
Very nice. I am very interested in your pulpit/ windless upgrade!
Thanks ! I'll be sure to take lots of pictures as I build it.

Initially I was going to use the orginal pulpit and replace the anchor locker hatch with a duplicate aluminum plate I made.
Worried about the rough weather, I decided to instead make a new pulpit that reaches over the anchor locker to better spread the load.
Teak is expensive so I'm opting for other marine quality hard woods.
 
Thanks ! I'll be sure to take lots of pictures as I build it.

Initially I was going to use the orginal pulpit and replace the anchor locker hatch with a duplicate aluminum plate I made.
Worried about the rough weather, I decided to instead make a new pulpit that reaches over the anchor locker to better spread the load.
Teak is expensive so I'm opting for other marine quality hard woods.


Try this place:

http://www.woodworkingforwatercraft.com/pulpit.html
 
Re: 1985 SRV270DA Restoration hoist construction

kc sundancer

i am interested in the wooden engine hoist dimensions . your post and pics look like you made the legs out of 4x4 posts and the crossbar from 2x8 piece of lumber. about how long were the legs and crossbar. was it just bolted together ? any other suggestions on building the hoist. thanks for pics
 
Sorry for the delayed response - had airplane work down in Florida to take care of.

The 4x4's were 16 footers
2x8's were (2) 14's sistered together with a staggered bolt pattern.
I also used pieces of plywood at both ends to secure the 2x8 beams and keep them from "rolling".

Here is a sketch that may help. My frame was real sturdy, just be sure to use caution and NOT stand underneath any supported loads - hope this helps! :thumbsup:

beam_sketch.jpg
 
Last edited:
What size/model was the sending unit that you used, is it possible to do the swap on this with out removing the tank? I've heard this is an issue with these only seeming to read to about 1/2 tank and I just bought basically the same vessel and may consider changing that for the purposes of better accuracy.
Thanks!
Al
 
with a 87 new to me and the rebuild list growing I am impresssed by the detail and the ability to renew.

KC thanks for sharing :smt038
 
What size/model was the sending unit that you used, is it possible to do the swap on this with out removing the tank? I've heard this is an issue with these only seeming to read to about 1/2 tank and I just bought basically the same vessel and may consider changing that for the purposes of better accuracy.
Thanks!
Al

Yes, it can be changed without removing the tank.
The location on ours is directly below the removable floor panel just forward of the center engine hatch/cover.
I have had no problems with it reading properly and it has been much more accurate than the original.
Their web site tells how to measure - 3/4" less than total tank depth which you can measure from top to bottom on the outside.
Below is what I ordered:

purchased from WEMA USA Inc., Ft. Lauderdale, FL

From my invoice:

Item# SSS/SSL
Item Name: SSS/SSL Fuel & Water Tank Sensors (4-60 in.) (Length - 30.0 in.)
Price paid: $54.00

visit this web page http://www.wemausa.com/tank-sensors/details_SSS_SSL_tank_sensors.htm

I hope this helps
 
with a 87 new to me and the rebuild list growing I am impresssed by the detail and the ability to renew.

KC thanks for sharing :smt038

Thanks !
 
Yes, it can be changed without removing the tank.
The location on ours is directly below the removable floor panel just forward of the center engine hatch/cover.
I have had no problems with it reading properly and it has been much more accurate than the original.
Their web site tells how to measure - 3/4" less than total tank depth which you can measure from top to bottom on the outside.
Below is what I ordered:

purchased from WEMA USA Inc., Ft. Lauderdale, FL

From my invoice:

Item# SSS/SSL
Item Name: SSS/SSL Fuel & Water Tank Sensors (4-60 in.) (Length - 30.0 in.)
Price paid: $54.00

visit this web page http://www.wemausa.com/tank-sensors/details_SSS_SSL_tank_sensors.htm

I hope this helps

Many thanks! We have the same model/year but I have the twin 8's. I've heard that the sensors on these are problematic as they do not read past about 1/2 tank. I'd like to know more accurately where I am at, especialy if we go on any cruises.
Thanks again!
 
I'm right there with you on knowing a bit more accurately on the fuel.
I still use the general gallons per hour on the long trips too.
When I went to remove the tank for the transom work my original gauge read below E. I was suprised when I ended up pumping another 43 gallons of gas out - supports what your hearing about the below half tank problems.
The fuel did get me through the winter with the snow machines though :thumbsup:.
 
Updated progress with the the new Teak Bow Pulpit and Windlass.
See edited addition to the top story.
 

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