1992 Sea Ray 330 Sundancer Refit and Modernization

[zool]

I took delivery of this rig last month and am just starting to address the some issues and deferred maintenance. I like to document my rebuilds and figured this was the best place to find intimate knowledge of what i'm working on. Ill post what i'm planning, along with methods and materials used.

I bought this well under market value knowing i need to do some significant upgrades, however, mechanically, it has been recently updated. I did an extensive structural inspection and it passed my requirements, at least as far as I had access to, which was plenty of alone time to climb around underneath and inspect the glass laminations, moisture testing, and the usual visual inspection.

Over the past 2 years, the previous owner (friend of a friend) did the following:

Whats new:

New starboard long block, new heads on the port side, along with new carbs, risers and manifolds on both, new props and dripless seals. New windlass, new stereo and speakers, new cabin fridge and new cockpit fridge.

Known broken items:


Water heater
search light
upholstery repairs
typical cabin leaks
lighting fixtures
stove removed.
gel repairs
some hardware replacement

Upgrades planned:

Electronics
Dash renovation
Cabinet refacing
Carpet removal and wood floors added, new carpet on vertical areas.
Upholstery upgrade inside and out.
Whatever else occurs to me to make it all pretty.

This is her as received.

The exterior needs a serious bath, the interior is relatively clean.

 

[zool]

I installed a shore power hookup on the outbuilding and have it plugged in for the winter. I plan on shrink wrapping it soon, but i want to take care of some exteriors before I do so. I just removed the rubrail to refinish it, and seal all the screw holes, the re-bed it. I can tell by the dirt underneath, and the black stripe stains on the hull side that water and dirt was getting under it, so this will be my 1st attack on the leaks.

shore power hookup

Rub rail removed.

These gouges are along alot of the rubrail, looks like someone played bumper car with the pilings or seawall. There is also some stress cracks, so it came in hot on occasion.

 

[KevinC]

Looks like a nice clean boat - best of luck with her and all your upcoming projects.

-Kevin

 

[zool]

Looks like a nice clean boat - best of luck with her and all your upcoming projects.

-Kevin

Thanks Kevin....it looks used but not abused for its age.

 

[Nater Potater]

When you pulled the rub rail, was it held on with wood screws? My '92 300DA has an aluminum channel with a rubber strip embedded down the center to cover the screw heads. I'm worried that there'd be nuts on the inside.

 

[zool]

When you pulled the rub rail, was it held on with wood screws? My '92 300DA has an aluminum channel with a rubber strip embedded down the center to cover the screw heads. I'm worried that there'd be nuts on the inside.

Yup, maybe 2 inch stainless wood screws for the box channel on mine. The backer is probably a wood strip at the joint. There are pan head screws that hold the cap to the hull, nut sure if they are screws or bolts, but ill find out tomorrow.

 

[zool]

Today I cleaned up the rub-rail section with a pressure washer, then wet sanded the seam area with 320 to remove the grime and broken down caulk. I sprayed the green striping but it only partially came off, have to remove the rest with a wheel. All the green has to go on this boat, eventually.

I cleaned up the aluminum rub-rail with wax and grease remover, then sanded with 120 grit, then filled on the gauges with Permatex metal filler. Then sanded again and etched it with Alumiprep (PPG version), the conditioned it all with Alodyne (again PPG). Then sprayed it all with Por-15 topcoat silver.

seam cleaned

Ugly green striping

Looks anodized again.

I removed the deck to hull screws one at a time and filled the holes 1st with Captain Tolleys creaping crack cure which runs like white water, then coagulates to fill water passages. The filled the rest of the holes with 3m 4200.

I ran a bead of solvent based sealant (Lexel) along the deck/cap seam. Then installed the rubrail back on.

Im gonna do the same to with window framed and windshield frame when I get a good weather window (no pun intended).


This is the last the rub-rail will come off under my ownership. I can as general maintenance tape and spot paint any blemishes and reseal if needed while attached. The Por-15 is rock solid and moisture cured.

 

[zool]

Supplies plus ppg w&g remover, permatex metal filler, 3m 4200

 

[Risingson]

Nice work. The boat Will look great when your done. 33 is a nice boat. Enjoy.

 

[zool]

Thanks Risingsun.......she just needs some love.

 

[Nater Potater]

Man, that looks good! How much do you charge?

 

[zool]

Thanks Nater, if you were next door, i'd help :]. The hardest part is finding a sucker to hold up cold metal in the wind while you fiddle with hundreds of screws lol.

The channel type is a pain cuz you gotta pull that inset all around a 300. If ur leaking there, you gotta address it.

BTW, theres no bolts and nuts, all screws.

 

[zool]

I finally got all the colored striping off, I wet sanded the the ghosting the best I could without too much burn thru. Im gonna replace some of it with black, but keep it to a minimum. A boot stripe is a must, and the triple 1/4 stripe on each side of the taylor windows. Next on the chopping block is those tacky chrome diamonds at the base of the arch. I picked up a pair of black and chrome SR wave ovals for the arch, and where the diamonds are, ill put a chrome "sundancer 330".

 

[MS Tarheel1]

Thanks for the update. Fantastic craftmanship. Great job on the rub-rail restoration.

 

[Scott S.]

Those "tacky chrome diamonds" will need to stay ! They hold the arch in place.....

 

[zool]

Those "tacky chrome diamonds" will need to stay ! They hold the arch in place.....

Are they bolt covers?

 

[zool]

Update:

So its frigid out so I cant really do anymore exterior stuff. I put a space heater in the cabin and removed all the cabinet doors and drawers and brought them into the shop for refinishing. I started wrapping them in vinyl gloss cherry. The rounded, beveled corners are tough to wrap, but they came out ok, with not too many wrinkles. I have 8 more to go, then I have to wrap the cabinet frames, all the wood accent trim, and the tambour doors.

They need a little more trimming and heat on the corners. I also picked up new brushed nickel handles.

I measured for the new wood flooring and subfloor, which ill put in after I remove all the carpet.

 

[Shaps]

@zool looks great.
What material is that?

 

[zool]

@zool looks great.
What material is that?

Thanks, I ordered it from here:
https://www.wrapdirect.com/architectural-furniture-kitchen-wrap/wood-vinyls/

I wanted a gloss with the grain running the length of the roll.

I got a 32 foot roll for $105.00 including vat, + shipping.

 

[jmauld]

What are the dimensions on those bilge vents?