CNYBoater
Active Member
- Aug 14, 2017
- 386
- Boat Info
- 1994 200 Overnighter, Single Axle Easy Load'r Galvanized Trailer, 2006 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab
- Engines
- Single 1994 Mercury Black Max V135 O/B
Looking to replace my fuel sending unit. I've had it out of the boat once to check the float when I first bought the boat. Turned out the problem then was the ground wire was corroded. So I replaced it with new tinned 8awg with soldered ends direct to battery.
The sending unit that is in there was the long arm swing type and the float was coated cork. My old and now my new Faria Euro fuel gauge reads 1/8th to less than 1/4 in the water with only a slight change when on the trailer. However, I'm topping off the tank with 16-18 gallons of fuel before I get the gurgle and the gauge confirms full. I'm inserting the parts diagram. It just shows a 30 gallon tank, and the part description for the sender is a generic universal. The tank shape in the diagram does not look like too sharp of a V so my gauge should be fairly consistent to I'd guess the last 8 gallons or so. My thought is, my sender should be about an inch off the tank bottom at empty, but the cork must be saturated so it's not sitting on top of the fuel, but below it. I'd prefer to have a sender on hand when I pull the old one, but I have no clue the fuel tank depth unless I measure it with a clean dipstick. I could go with a universal with the long arm that you adjust on the fly, but was honestly considering a meuller reed type.
To get to the sending unit, I need to remove 2 vertical plywood bulkheads under the rear bench (4 screws each) and then remove the 5+ foot long plywood floor panel (12 screws). I'm sick of pulling this thing up. If I do that, I'm tapping it for an 8" inspection plate directly above the sender unit. I don't want to keep pulling this heavy arse floor up.
so my long winded setup information is over, the question is... Would a reed type sender work with my Faria Euro gauge, since they are both electronic or do I need to find the gauge manual to find the ohm range because I don't know if the range is an industry standard? Second question, is the floating arm type better than the straight rod design of the reed switch sending units, or doesn't really matter? They both use floats, but looks like the reed switch type has fewer parts to be susceptible to corrosion.
The sending unit that is in there was the long arm swing type and the float was coated cork. My old and now my new Faria Euro fuel gauge reads 1/8th to less than 1/4 in the water with only a slight change when on the trailer. However, I'm topping off the tank with 16-18 gallons of fuel before I get the gurgle and the gauge confirms full. I'm inserting the parts diagram. It just shows a 30 gallon tank, and the part description for the sender is a generic universal. The tank shape in the diagram does not look like too sharp of a V so my gauge should be fairly consistent to I'd guess the last 8 gallons or so. My thought is, my sender should be about an inch off the tank bottom at empty, but the cork must be saturated so it's not sitting on top of the fuel, but below it. I'd prefer to have a sender on hand when I pull the old one, but I have no clue the fuel tank depth unless I measure it with a clean dipstick. I could go with a universal with the long arm that you adjust on the fly, but was honestly considering a meuller reed type.
To get to the sending unit, I need to remove 2 vertical plywood bulkheads under the rear bench (4 screws each) and then remove the 5+ foot long plywood floor panel (12 screws). I'm sick of pulling this thing up. If I do that, I'm tapping it for an 8" inspection plate directly above the sender unit. I don't want to keep pulling this heavy arse floor up.
so my long winded setup information is over, the question is... Would a reed type sender work with my Faria Euro gauge, since they are both electronic or do I need to find the gauge manual to find the ohm range because I don't know if the range is an industry standard? Second question, is the floating arm type better than the straight rod design of the reed switch sending units, or doesn't really matter? They both use floats, but looks like the reed switch type has fewer parts to be susceptible to corrosion.
