2004 340 Transmission removal, without pulling engine thread.

Honest question here: Do you think that ring gear is made from as good as or better material than an O.E. ring gear?
I can only speak to Diesels... Detroit, Cummins, CAT, Mack Volvo Navistar all get them from a hand full of good suppliers in China that that's all they do. They range from $17.00 to $19.00 to the OEM. So the aftermarket part you buy is probably from one of them if you buy it at a reputable place.

The problem is getting the old one off and the new one on and running concentric....then you have to balance it... I wouldn't mess with it... I can't see it being much different with a gas engine
 
My flywheel was free. Insurance paid for it anyway. I wanted all oem. Thanks for the thought and help though.
 
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While ur in there and the shaft is out.... Why not replace the Shaft Seal...
 
While ur in there and the shaft is out.... Why not replace the Shaft Seal...
Ahead of you. Ordered it and should be here Friday. Once I install it, I'll start the re-install. Been waiting in Tides. I have a bunch of room right now.
 
Some info on how to align the damper plate to flywheel.....(Just showing you on the old flywheel) This will make it much easier then trying to install and torque all 6 through the starter hole.
First get 3 of these tapered head bolts. Using these bolts will align the damper 100%. Install the damper and tighten the 3 bolts a little at a time until they are snug. If you take a measurement from any of the sides it will be exact. Now take the 3 bolts left and put some blue loctite on them and torque to spec. Now take the tapered bolts out and repeat with the last 3. Enjoy....
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That's a great idea with the bolts. I love "tricks of the trade".

I know you are already past this point, but here is a trick an old timer taught me when I was pulling two transmissions(of course he didn't tell me till after I had pulled the first one and made the mess in bilge with fluid:
When needing to remove trans from boat, don't disconnect the cooler from the trans. disconnect the cooler from raw water hoses and tie it to the trans and lift out as one. Keeps the mess somewhere else if you need to disconnect the cooler, which in your case you would leave together.
 
That's a great idea with the bolts. I love "tricks of the trade".

I know you are already past this point, but here is a trick an old timer taught me when I was pulling two transmissions(of course he didn't tell me till after I had pulled the first one and made the mess in bilge with fluid:
When needing to remove trans from boat, don't disconnect the cooler from the trans. disconnect the cooler from raw water hoses and tie it to the trans and lift out as one. Keeps the mess somewhere else if you need to disconnect the cooler, which in your case you would leave together.

Thank. All the fluid runs into the trans. When the lines are disconnected from the cooler there is no fluid that comes out.
 
The actual shoulder bolts are a better option , second will the tapered bolts take the torque?
 
Thank. All the fluid runs into the trans. When the lines are disconnected from the cooler there is no fluid that comes out.


My bad- I saw the red stuff in your motor well in earlier posts and thought that's where it came from.
When I pulled mine the first trans dumped about a pint, though when cleaning it up it seemed like a gallon.
 
My bad- I saw the red stuff in your motor well in earlier posts and thought that's where it came from.
When I pulled mine the first trans dumped about a pint, though when cleaning it up it seemed like a gallon.
Yea, That was the anti freeze from the engine block, Not the winterizing stuff. It's the orange stuff. I disconnected a hose to shorten it and some leaked out of the block.
 
Installed the flywheel, Damper and housing. Waiting on the new Tides seal this afternoon. Transmission goes back in tomorrow.:D
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Only thing I can add is use 2 long studs in the top holes to help guide the trans back in
NOT BOLTS TO DRAW THE TRANS IN
 
SUCCESS..It's back in. Took less then 5 min to get it down and aligned. Just some connections to complete and I should be good to go. The shaft alignment is off by .020, but that will be fixed in the spring once in the water.
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Nice work! What a job and sense of accomplishment. Who knows what this would have cost to have done and would it have been the quality of work that you have just done. Can't wait until the next professional tells a CSR member that the engine must be pulled to get the transmission out on a 340!
 

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