240 Sun Deck 5.7 EFI Water in the Oil

[iwilder]

Today I went out to start up the boat and warm it up as I do every week if I haven't run it. The engine started right up ran for a few minutes then stopped suddenly. I then tried to restart the engine and it appears to be seized up. The starter wouldn't budge it. Not good.

I checked the oil and there was way more oil than there should have been. The oil appeared to have water in it. When I removed the spark arrestor water poured out of it. There was also water setting on the intake manifold. I have a flushing system that I use to run the engine. But the water is turned off if the motor isn't running. I pumped out the oil and I would say about the first half or more was water.

We had several days of rain recently here (SW Florida) with 4 or 5 inches total. Not common this time of the year but not uncommon in the summer. I posted before about always having water in my battery trays and not being able to figure out where it comes from.

I'm not sure how the water would have gotten into my oil but if anyone has had a similar experience I would be interested in hearing about it.

Tomorrow I will try adding new oil and see if I can get the engine to turn over.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Ike Wilder

 

[randmhall]

Sorry for your troubles. sounds like you have a LOT of water where it should not be. If the motor won't turn over, it sounds like there is water in the cylinders. You should probably remove the plugs and crank it a couple times, water in the cylinder will definitely hydrolock a motor, and will do a nice imitation of old faithful with the plugs out.

There are other issues that can cause this, but is possible to get water in the exhaust through the cooling system with the motor not running. Don't stop the motor, then go turn off the flush hose.

My experience with this is regarding Sea-doos. If you tow them too fast, you can force water though the cooling system into the exhaust and cylinders. Fortunately, I have been able to pull the plugs, turn them over, spray a little WD-40 in the hole to help with water drops, and then get them running again.

Please let us all know how this turns out.

 

[joeyleggz]

Sorry to hear about that the sooner you get it running the better chance you have of saving this motor and let it run for a long time once it’s up and running to burn off any additional condensation

 

[Espos4]

If you want any chance of saving the short block, you need to open all your raw water drains, remove all spark plugs and crank the starter. This will push any water out of the cylinders. Then you need to fog the cylinders to prevent rust from forming.

I would suggest doing his ASAP.

Then the diagnosing can begin.

 

[iwilder]

Thanks folks for the replies. I had a hell of a time removing the oil filter. Finally resorted to the large screw diver method that got it off after a lot of failed attempts with various wrenches. I tried tuning it over by hand with out any luck. I am going to pull the plugs today and see if that helps.

Thanks again.

 

[iwilder]

Well I pulled the plugs. The #3 cylinder had the electrode bent off to the side. All the others seemed to be OK. The motor will still not turn over either with the starter or by hand.

I guess it is time to send it off to the Marina and see what they can find out. The sudden stop and the bent electrode on #3 makes me think that I possibly dropped a valve in that cylinder.

Anyone have any suggestions for a repair shop? I don't have a trailer so it would be easier to have it towed.

Thanks,

 

[Espos4]

Agreed, if it still doesn’t turn over by hand, (did you try rotating in both directions?) there is very likely mechanical damage and something physically blocking the piston from moving.

In the long run, The easiest and cheapest repair may be a complete replacement. Especially when you consider the labor costs of diagnosing, and swapping parts for a long block replacement.

Maybe $8-$9k for the complete motor and a few hours labor you’re all done.