260 Sundancer Thread.........Comments questions and answers

maxse said:
Ok, so I have 2 extra parts - 2 x elbows at $413/ea so maybe that is part of the extra time involved.
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Elbows and riser should be the same time - its only for bolts plus removing the exhaust tubes. Yes hardware costs would change but not that much for labor.

-Kevin
 
Just as a point of info, I had to have my carrier bearing in my out drive replaced last year. My mechanic gave me a range of costs based on what conditions he may find when doing the work. It was helpful.
 
b_arrington said:
Just as a point of info, I had to have my carrier bearing in my out drive replaced last year. My mechanic gave me a range of costs based on what conditions he may find when doing the work. It was helpful.
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I've got to have mine replaced as well this spring. Just curious what kind of price range they quoted you?

Pat
 
PatrickM said:
I've got to have mine replaced as well this spring. Just curious what kind of price range they quoted you?

Pat
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Range was $600 - $1000, up to a new lower unit. The variable was the degree to which carrier was stuck in the housing. It was about $850ish. The carrier/bearing was a bit stuck and required some persuading to come out.
 
maxse said:
I have an estimate to replace my risers/manifolds for 8 hours of labor does that sound about right for an 07'?
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its not that bad of a DIY job. in fact I have some Barr Marine Exh, risers and elbows with 10hrs would sell cheap...
 
I have a 2005 Sundancer 260 that I bought last summer. The hatch motor was not working nor were the trim tabs. My boat mechanic told me the trim tabs won't work until the hatch motor is working. Does that sound correct to anyone here?
 
Alert said:
I have a 2005 Sundancer 260 that I bought last summer. The hatch motor was not working nor were the trim tabs. My boat mechanic told me the trim tabs won't work until the hatch motor is working. Does that sound correct to anyone here?
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Can't say that I've heard that one before. It's a separate system. But to find out for sure, look in your wring diagrams in your owner's manual and follow the circuits. You can download it if you don't have your original. Have you checked fuses for both circuits?
 
my 06 has an elec worm drive lift and my tabs are separate system ....
 
Hi everyone, new to the forum.
My wife and I bought a 2005 Searay 260 last year and spent most of the season getting used to it.
Now that we're approaching time to put it in the water I want to do a few things...

Steering\Throttle cable replacement
Fix Trim for outdrive (fun i know) - Hope it's just the selenoid

My question for the forum. What length cables should I purchase and is there a specific type I should be looking at? I'll be doing the work myself.

Thanks everyone
 
more than likely the switches on the side of the outdrive need to be replaced. they come with the cable that needs to go up thru the outdrive and into the engine compartment. you will have to remove the outdrive i believe to accomplish this task. I have repaired the cable ends on my old alpha drive and installed just the switch that i needed but it was quite a task.
good luck and happy boating.
 
I just realized I wasn't clear on my question, sorry!

For the trim, yeah I know what i'm up against there.
My cable question was related to the steering\throttle cables.
 
This is a pretty diverse thread so sorry if this adds to rambling. Pretty new to Sundancers. I bought a 2000 260DA last Spring (5.7l FI + Bravo3). Enjoyed getting to know her over last Summer. After pulling her out in the Fall it was evident that a significant amount of drive had 'disolved' (I'm in the salt). I had a diver replace the anodes during the Summer. Not sure if that actually happened or not. Hard to see down there. Anyhow I'll paint it this Spring and see if I can get a year or 2 more out of it. The question for the forum is when time to replace the drive does a Bravo2 work fine on this model? I've read that they are a LOT more resistant to galvanic corrosion. I wish they'd just equip them with Bravo2's from the get go.
 
FishOn said:
This is a pretty diverse thread so sorry if this adds to rambling. Pretty new to Sundancers. I bought a 2000 260DA last Spring (5.7l FI + Bravo3). Enjoyed getting to know her over last Summer. After pulling her out in the Fall it was evident that a significant amount of drive had 'disolved' (I'm in the salt). I had a diver replace the anodes during the Summer. Not sure if that actually happened or not. Hard to see down there. Anyhow I'll paint it this Spring and see if I can get a year or 2 more out of it. The question for the forum is when time to replace the drive does a Bravo2 work fine on this model? I've read that they are a LOT more resistant to galvanic corrosion. I wish they'd just equip them with Bravo2's from the get go.
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You would likely need to change ratios too - you may be able to consider a B1 too, or maybe even an alpha - all the bravos use the same upper - the III uses counter rotating stainless props - and thats the problem (too much dissimilar metals) - no aluminum or composite props are available, due to the design - an '04 and up BIII uses a prop anode (there are kits to retrofit one on earlier drives) as well as an additional one on the cavitation plate IIRC - also look into the mercathode system.....The B1 shares props with the alpha and you can get aluminum props in 4 or 5 blade - the B2 has a redesigned lower to clear bigger props for more bite with heavy boats

switching to a single prop B1 or 2 or alpha will definitely be noticeable at low speed maneuvering, especially in reverse - alphas shift far clumsier and you would need to do the transom assembly too, but the drives are cheap!

A B3 is probably the best drive for your boat - either way outdrives are a lot of maintenance - if you look into a later drive with all the upgrades you will likely be OK - but short haul the boat for inspections/zinc changes instead of relying on a diver - a proper zinc change is VERY hard to do in the water - I have sat on the swim platform and coached a diver through it before.....
 
Thanks for the replies. I know they are different. What would be great would be to hear from somebody that has made the switch on the 260DA. I thought maybe there would be a crowd of you out there. Maybe like Ididntdoit said the newer drive dont have the issue so much.? My mistake on the driver. He came recommended. There is a major shortage of haul out places where I am and those that are around get backed up for months. I didn't want to be without it for that long. I did get it onto a trailer in the Fall so now I can keep a closer eye on things. I suspect it won't be a long time before I need to replace it even if I paint it. I really like the boat. She handles very well and is OK on economy. If the B2 is worse at low speed that wouldn't be good. I had a Wellcraft with a single prop Volvo 290 before the B3 and I'd say it was easier to dock. It seem the B3 has higher output so you cant go as low. Maybe that's just my boat though. The only other thing is the wagon back effect I get. There aren't any exhaust leaks but i get a moderate amount rolling back with the canvas up.
 
Bravo 3s would probably be the best but they just require care.
Make sure the bonding system is proper. Make sure you have the proper metal for the anodes.
Make sure there is no bottom paint touching the transom assembly (1.5 inch space). Make sure to paint the drive well.
Make sure that you use the correct paint (ie Trilux 33)
Add a prop anode.
If you still have problems check to see if your dock is "hot" with electric current.

As far as when you need to replace vs repair it's hard to tell. Some of the exterior will take it and others will cause leaks. Get a good mechanic to look it over and comment.

-Kevin
 
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