260 Sundancer Thread.........Comments questions and answers

Chip S said:
You can use the AC when you are in the slip (with the seacock open). Most people I know don't use the AC when underway, only at the dock, but I believe you can use the AC underway as well. At the dock you can use shore power but underway you will need to have a generator that is running.
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So the water gets pumped in I assume.

Thanks for the info.
 
I never paid attention until recently when I was installing a new transom transducer...and I got the
visual with my son on the switches to test.


1) I noticed that my trim tabs don't move at the same speed
2) one of them goes down further than the other.

Is that common? a faulty hydraulic actuator? lack of oil?

Thanks
 
BellevueDA said:
Hi everyone,

Question on AC unit.

With the boat sitting in the slip, can the AC be turned on with the seacock open for water intake?

Wondering if the water gets pumped in to cool the unit or whether the boat needs to be in moving
so that the water gets in through the seacock.

Thanks
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Marine AC uses sea water as the coolant. It is pumped in through the sea cock, passes through the unit where heat is delivered to the water, then out the side of the boat taking the heat with it. If the sea cock is closed the AC unit will eventually overheat and shut down. The seawater is pumped, via a 120v AC pump. The boat does not need to be moving.

if you don’t have a generator you can only use the AC dockside because the system requires A/C power, not D/C power. If you have a generator it can be used underway.
 
BellevueDA said:
I never paid attention until recently when I was installing a new transom transducer...and I got the
visual with my son on the switches to test.


1) I noticed that my trim tabs don't move at the same speed
2) one of them goes down further than the other.

Is that common? a faulty hydraulic actuator? lack of oil?

Thanks
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I don't know if it's "common", but one of mine has always been faster than the other. I don't even remember which one anymore. I rarely operate both at the same time, so it's never made a difference.

As to the travel, I sorta remember eyeballing mine after I replaced one of the actuators and I think they both had the same amount of travel. That being said, I am 100% certain that I have never used either tab in the full down position on my boat. Ever.
 
Hey guys! I have an ‘05 DA that I’m currently having a love/hate relationship with. My bravo 3 will trim up and down just fine. Plenty of fluid in the reservoir. However, in the down position, I can pull the drive up with my hand. As you can imagine, when in reverse, the drive almost comes out of the water. Any ideas? I’ve googled this issue and can’t seem to find anything.
 
Has anyone ever removed the top step going down into the cabin? The part with the flip up step and trash can can under it? I need to remove mine to replace the power supply in my norcold refrigerator but I can't pull the refrigerator out far enough without removing the step. I've removed all of the obvious screws around the bottom that hold it to the step below it, but it seems like there's a couple holding the top to the wall behind it. I'm wondering if I need to go into the mid berth and take panels apart to get to the screws holding that on. I haven't been able to find any hiding in the carpet on the front side. If anybody's done this before please let me know where they hid the fasteners.

Update 7/11 - I could not find the fasteners. I did not get in the mid berth to see if I could access them from behind. I went with plan B. I removed the door of the refrigerator (and the bottom bracket) and was able to pull it out far enough to access the power cord. I have successfully repaired my Norcold. It only worked on DC last season. Now, it also works on AC.
 
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skibum said:
Has anyone ever removed the top step going down into the cabin? The part with the flip up step and trash can can under it? I need to remove mine to replace the power supply in my norcold refrigerator but I can't pull the refrigerator out far enough without removing the step. I've removed all of the obvious screws around the bottom that hold it to the step below it, but it seems like there's a couple holding the top to the wall behind it. I'm wondering if I need to go into the mid berth and take panels apart to get to the screws holding that on. I haven't been able to find any hiding in the carpet on the front side. If anybody's done this before please let me know where they hid the fasteners.

Update 7/11 - I could not find the fasteners. I did not get in the mid berth to see if I could access them from behind. I went with plan B. I removed the door of the refrigerator (and the bottom bracket) and was able to pull it out far enough to access the power cord. I have successfully repaired my Norcold. It only worked on DC last season. Now, it also works on AC.
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NICE VICTORY!!
 
Anyone here have any issues with their cockpit courtesy lights flickering? My stern light flickers like crazy and I havent been able to trace the issue. I don't believe its a bulb issue, and I'm no electrician so any guidance would be helpful! Thanks
 
It very well could be a bulb. Sometimes the filament can break so that the 2 pieces are close enough to make contact when you jiggle the bulb. That might be your issue.

You'll need to remove the 2 screws holding the chrome ring and the clear cover no matter what. Do that, turn on the light, and flick the bulb with your finger to see if you can make it flicker. If it does, try a new bulb, making sure the contacts are clean while you do that. If you can't make it flicker, or if it still flickers with a new bulb, then it is probably a loose wire. The easiest half of the circuit to check 1st is the ground side. Use a voltmeter to find the negative side of the bulb holder, unless you want to do it by taking the chance on blowing the nav light fuse. Find a length of wire (it can be a smaller gauge wire, like a piece of speaker wire or something) long enough to go from the boat battery to the light. Connect one end to the negative terminal of the boat battery and connect the other to the negative side of the bulb socket. You should be able to put the wire under the end of the bulb and snap the bulb in place. It should hold there while you test. Now, do whatever makes the light flicker and see if the problem is still there. If it is (and your test wire isn't loose), then the problem is on the switch side of the circuit. If the flicker went away, find and replace the bad ground connection.

If you still have the problem, with the light still on, remove the light fixture from the boat (mine are held in place by the 2 screws you've already removed) and wiggle it around to see if you can make it flicker. If it does, your loose / bad connection is somewhere in the section of wiring that you are moving. If not, put the light back together and move to the helm. Have someone watch the light while you wiggle the wiring under there (gently) by the switch that controls that light. If it flickers, well... something is loose under there. If you can't affect it under the helm, and the temporary ground didn't help, you're down to the switch, and the piece of wire between the switch and the light.

Good luck!
 
Looking at purchasing a 2008 260 Sundancer with arch on a trailer. Is it too tall to tow down the interstate with the arch? It sits fairly low on the trailer.
 
altouchet said:
Looking at purchasing a 2008 260 Sundancer with arch on a trailer. Is it too tall to tow down the interstate with the arch? It sits fairly low on the trailer.
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The height requirement for interstate travel is 13 feet, 6 inches. The height of a 2008 260 Sundancer from the keel to the top of the arch is 10 feet, 10 inches ( https://owners-resources.searayweb.com/owners-manuals-files/2008_260 Sundancer_260 Sundancer.pdf , see page 5). The mast light is another 12 inches above the arch, but I believe you can fold that down. As long as the keel is less than 2 feet, 6 inches above the ground you should be fine with the mast light folded down.
 
Chip S said:
The height requirement for interstate travel is 13 feet, 6 inches. The height of a 2008 260 Sundancer from the keel to the top of the arch is 10 feet, 10 inches ( https://owners-resources.searayweb.com/owners-manuals-files/2008_260 Sundancer_260 Sundancer.pdf , see page 5). The mast light is another 12 inches above the arch, but I believe you can fold that down. As long as the keel is less than 2 feet, 6 inches above the ground you should be fine with the mast light folded down.
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thank you!
 
altouchet said:
Looking at purchasing a 2008 260 Sundancer with arch on a trailer. Is it too tall to tow down the interstate with the arch? It sits fairly low on the trailer.
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Nope, you'll be fine. Done it myself - lot's of people trailer this combo. It's under the interstate height - probably somewhere in the 12' to 12-1/2' range.
 
Lazy Daze said:
Nope, you'll be fine. Done it myself - lot's of people trailer this combo. It's under the interstate height - probably somewhere in the 12' to 12-1/2' range.
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Like Dennis, done it myself with an ‘06. Lower the light on the arch and pull away. Just watch for low hanging trees on secondary roads......VHF antennas do not do well at 60-70mph....ask me how I know....

Bennett
 
Any bridge height that is lower than 13ft 6in will have warnings posted, usually in an intersection prior to the approach that way you can turn off.

Just welcomed a 1985 Sundancer 260 into the family. Were the 3rd owner overall and its been in storage for the past 4 years but really kept in great shape. The past owner even kept a "captains log" of every time he took it out and said how it ran, what he did, and other fun things. He even had monogrammed towels made with the ships name on them.

The struggle is real when trying to find any type of owners manual for that model/year. Sea Ray's website seems to have a gap in the history of the 260's - with no manuals for anything around that model/year range.
 
Went out for a sunset cruise this weekend and about an hour in I had a beeping alarm start sounding and I'm not sure what it is for. I've had a low gear lube alarm sound before and it was super loud and constant - this weekends alarm was very faint and was a beeping alarm that was coming from inside the dash/helm. I shut the engine down, ran a visual check, waited 5 minutes and when I started it back up the alarm was gone and never came back. Anyone have this happen or know what it could have been an alarm for? Thanks
 
Selling a brand new cockpit cover , bag of snaps. OEM

Captain Navy.

Paid $1220 a month ago.

Will sell for $1000 including shipping to US Cont.

Decided to stay with camper cover.
 
Hotel Guy said:
Went out for a sunset cruise this weekend and about an hour in I had a beeping alarm start sounding and I'm not sure what it is for. I've had a low gear lube alarm sound before and it was super loud and constant - this weekends alarm was very faint and was a beeping alarm that was coming from inside the dash/helm. I shut the engine down, ran a visual check, waited 5 minutes and when I started it back up the alarm was gone and never came back. Anyone have this happen or know what it could have been an alarm for? Thanks
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The only faint beeps I've ever heard on mine are the GPS alarm and the CO detector in the cabin. The CO detector will beep when it detects CO, but also if the battery voltage drops. It could trick you into thinking it was coming from under the console if the cabin door was closed.. My GPS has several alarms, and has caused me to wonder what was beeping once or twice before. Like when I accidentally set the "arrival" alarm. I was close to my destination and not aware that it was set. Took me a minute to figure out where it was coming from (my GPS is mounted low, so I need to lean back and look down to see it).
 
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