310 Sundancer Thread (2007 & newer)

No that is my “best cruise” I have 6.2 and v drive that’s the sweet spot max rpm or WOT should be 4600-4900
 
Does anybody know if the 2007 310 Dancer has a dehumidification system on the thermostat? Can't seem to find how to enable that (if I even have it at all).
 
Yes mine does you press mode and it goes through heat, cool, heat/cool, dehumidify
 
So, i have a heat and cool button, and if I push both at the same time, it will switch between heating or cooling the boat in order to reach the "set" temperature. how do you enable dehumidify? I don't see anything on my thermostat that eludes to that...
 
If you have the older display that only has 2 digits in green and the flip out cover - turn u it off, the simultaneous push heat, cool, fan then the display should show HU - it will run for 30 minutes every 6 hours
 
yes i only have the 2 digit display with the flip out cover, you are correct. I will try to push "heat, cool and fan" together and see if that works! Thank you!

GG
 
Has anyone on this thread ordered replacement carpet from Corinthian? They have 2007 310 template on file. Curious if anyone has ordered from this template and if it fit well.
 
Hi,

Does anyone have a parts manual for a 2010 310 by chance or can point me in the right direction to find one?

Thanks
 
anyone replace there bilge lights with something better? im looking for a sealed LED light. the one light on my starboard transom sees some water splashing and doesnt last. thanks.
 
Guy at our marina just traded his 2015 310 for a new 350. He has a 2015 Load Master trailer he is selling. If anyone is interested PM me and I'll give you his number. I didn't ask how much he wanted so you will have to discuss that with him. I do know it is a bunk trailer and he had sterndrives
 
Anyone put a swim platform on their 310/330? Considering ordering one for mine (swimplatforms.com).

Curious how hard it is to get the original ladder off.
 
Curious how hard it is to get the original ladder off.

I replaced the original ladder when I purchased my 310...it's not that difficult. Like most things in the ER, access is the biggest challenge. Only four through-bolts and you're done.

I do have I/O's and that probably helps, at least from the V-drive ER pics I've seen.
 
Anyone put a swim platform on their 310/330? Considering ordering one for mine (swimplatforms.com).

Curious how hard it is to get the original ladder off.

The swimplatform on the 330 looks good but it doesn't have a ladder. That would be a deal killer for my family.
 
The swimplatform on the 330 looks good but it doesn't have a ladder. That would be a deal killer for my family.
Agreed, I will definitely have the ladder.
 
I need an extended platform for mine also. I haven't looked into it yet, but the ladder looks like my 260's ladder. It was easy to remove, if memory serves me correctly, they were not through bolts.
 
Does anyone know how the galley countertop is anchored down?
I want to upgrade the sink, and removing the counter and cutting it at home would be the cleanest way to do it.
 
Does anyone know how the galley countertop is anchored down?
I want to upgrade the sink, and removing the counter and cutting it at home would be the cleanest way to do it.

I just looked and it isn't entirely obvious...

They used a .5" plywood substrate directly under the countertop. Under this substrate is another .5" plywood that is faced w/ the cabinet (interior veneer). This lower plywood is screwed into the upper plywood substrate but obscures any means of attachment that is done from the upper plywood to countertop material itself.

Based on my working with Corian, I would assume adhesive, not screws, is holding the top to the plywood...
 
I just looked and it isn't entirely obvious...

They used a .5" plywood substrate directly under the countertop. Under this substrate is another .5" plywood that is faced w/ the cabinet (interior veneer). This lower plywood is screwed into the upper plywood substrate but obscures any means of attachment that is done from the upper plywood to countertop material itself.

Based on my working with Corian, I would assume adhesive, not screws, is holding the top to the plywood...
I was thinking the same thing. I'm not sure that would come up very easy though.
How strong is Corian? I sure wouldn't want to break it trying to remove it.
 
I was thinking the same thing. I'm not sure that would come up very easy though.
How strong is Corian? I sure wouldn't want to break it trying to remove it.

My experience with Corian is limited to replacing our original alcohol + electric galley cooktop with an recessed electric unit that I had to create the Corian drop-in cover for. I found the countertop color match at a Corian supplier online and ordered a piece to machine down to size. As a raw material, it cuts and routes easily. High speed buffing brings a nice shine. But, in working with attaching the new cooktop with some scrap Corian, I found it to be fairly brittle with respect to screw-holding. Pilot holes are required and it needs to be nearly the final size of the fastener. Too much thread bite and the material cracks similar to drilling/screwing fiberglass/gelcoat. This experience is why I presume adhesive (vs screws) is used to bind the Corian to the top layer of plywood underneath.

If I were looking to replace the sink with a larger one, I'd probably disassemble the cabinetry to the point where you can remove the entire top assembly including the plywood substrates. Then, route the new opening with the substrate attached as it provides needed strength to the Corian slab (only 1/2" thick). Even if you could remove the Corian by itself, you will need to enlarge the sink hole in the plywood layers too, so doing it all it once is probably most efficient.

Picture of countertop assembly...sideways, of course, because it would be CSR if it weren't...

uc
 

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