340 SUNDANCER THREAD

Well I made the fake door, mounted the sub. It’s “ok”. I swapped back to a single 8” tube and as I slide it inside that spot both people with me and my self where instantly like NOPE that’s sound way better. So going with 2- 8” bazokkas, 8ohm single voice coils, on par for 4 ohm load on amp. Under seat and will vent the door.
 
Awfully quite in the ole 340 thread. Has our hull officially lost favor with the masses? Or are all of us 340 poor suckers living north of the Mason Dixon?

Already looking forward to spring. 4-5 weeks of "real winter" and I'm done with this crap. Looking forward to another year with our 340.
 
Awfully quite in the ole 340 thread. Has our hull officially lost favor with the masses? Or are all of us 340 poor suckers living north of the Mason Dixon?

Already looking forward to spring. 4-5 weeks of "real winter" and I'm done with this crap. Looking forward to another year with our 340.

Well, I am certainly waiting anxiously for spring to splash my 340 again, and yeah, I'm up north. To get a boating fix, I watch "New England Boating" on NESN, and make notes with the admiral on the harbors they visited as we build our 2018 trip list. "Beginnings" is ready and waiting in nice warm indoor storage for that first trip of the spring... it can't come soon enough...
 
Any of you replaced the dash backlighting? I have all LEDs in the gauges and the dimmer works awesome still. But the back lighting is all not working so at night I can’t read what buttons do what... then looking today on flounder pounder they have replacement lighting to work with stock connections.

Anyone tried these? Know what lenght?
I replaced my panels and put in all new switches. I got everything, including the light strips from flounder pounder... I used the longer of the two lengths they had.
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I was about to post a pic, I too used th longest ones they had and fit perfect. And the new transformer since I was not sure what was wrong. Works with the dimmer as well.
 
Well, the culprit was indeed the Circuit board. However, the mfg, wasn't much help. No schematics available and no replacements. So, Dug out my electronics repair experience from years past and determined that 4 transistors were shorted. Went to Amazon and ordered (minimum 50 pcs.) So I now have 46 extra transistors and a perfectly working fresh water level display. (total investment, $6.00) If anyone else needs help with this particular system. Message me. I'd be happy to send you parts or repair it for you.
Jim Crews

Sounds like I have the exact same problem in my '02 310. Probably the same circuit board. This is the circuit board ion the indicator panel itself right? I'll have to pull it on my next trip to the boat. Do you mind sharing which transistors you ordered? Thanks!
 
I can do one better. Send me address and I’ll give you a couple. Or send me your circut board and I’ll install for you.
I had to order 50 of them so I have a few extra’s.
Jim
 
I can do one better. Send me address and I’ll give you a couple. Or send me your circut board and I’ll install for you.
I had to order 50 of them so I have a few extra’s.
Jim

Dang Jim. That's more than generous. I won't be at the boat for a couple of weeks and will pull the circuit board at that time. Please do let me pay you for your time.
 
Happy to help! Let me know when your ready to send the board or when to send you some transistors. They were like $9.95 for 50, so I have an extra 48 of them laying around. I have a good bench set up here to so I can test each water level circuit. Mines been working perfect, since I've made the repair.
Jim
 
Happy to help! Let me know when your ready to send the board or when to send you some transistors. They were like $9.95 for 50, so I have an extra 48 of them laying around. I have a good bench set up here to so I can test each water level circuit. Mines been working perfect, since I've made the repair.
Jim

Awesome. I'll be in touch
 
Has anyone modified your gas tanks to combine the 2 separate tanks into 1? Or add a equalizer tube so they act as 1 tank?

I had the starboard fuel pump quit on my way home. After an hour of only running on the port engine, I realized that we may not make it back with amount of fuel we had in the port tank. This made me wonder why they made them separate in the first place? I don't see the logic in this design. Can anyone share there thoughts and/or fixes?
 
I think the idea behind keeping them separate is to avoid contamination in one tank from affecting the other. I think the diesel option includes transfer plumbing. I would imagine one could retrofit such a system for gas.

You could probably include a gas syphon hand-pump in your emergency supplies as a poor mans transfer system.
 
I think the idea behind keeping them separate is to avoid contamination in one tank from affecting the other. I think the diesel option includes transfer plumbing. I would imagine one could retrofit such a system for gas.

You could probably include a gas syphon hand-pump in your emergency supplies as a poor mans transfer system.
Thanks bobeast, I like the poor mans emergency system for now. I'm going to look into it.
Zac
 
The 330s 1996-1997 for sure have fuel crossovers. You can select which tank you want each main to pull from. We lost that choice on the 340.

What circuit board are you guys discussing?

My stereo install is done, and I ended up with 2 bazooka 8"tubes, (8ohm each) for a 4 ohm load which is what the amp called for when bridged. They are under the helm seat and one slides under the ice box. Sounded better then anything else I have tried... with the door open.... so then I vented the door. Now sound wise no difference, no rattle.

The nmea 2000 network is working awesome with my Lowrance HDS9 gen 3 (free upgrade from my gen 2 I sent back for a problem...)

Next it to pull the factory GPS, and VHF, and install a lowrance VHF with ais and connect to the network as well and hope to install clean/factory holes
 

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The 330s 1996-1997 for sure have fuel crossovers. You can select which tank you want each main to pull from. We lost that choice on the 340.

What circuit board are you guys discussing?

My stereo install is done, and I ended up with 2 bazooka 8"tubes, (8ohm each) for a 4 ohm load which is what the amp called for when bridged. They are under the helm seat and one slides under the ice box. Sounded better then anything else I have tried... with the door open.... so then I vented the door. Now sound wise no difference, no rattle.

The nmea 2000 network is working awesome with my Lowrance HDS9 gen 3 (free upgrade from my gen 2 I sent back for a problem...)

Next it to pull the factory GPS, and VHF, and install a lowrance VHF with ais and connect to the network as well and hope to install clean/factory holes

nice work on the door vents....how did you do that....with a router?.....

cliff
 
Yes good buddy has a router table. So we made a jig and a few practice cuts till I likes it and then cut the door.
 
Has anyone replaced the cockpit fridge in a 340? I need to replace mine and looking for suggestions thanks!
 
i hear its a pain because trying to get one in through the door?
 
Wow, this is a great thread! I bought my 08' 340 DA 2 years ago. I have several questions for all the brain trust here...

1- Batteries, I have 4 , two year old batteries and when I anchor to Perch fish, I can't run the radio long (in addition to head, fridge etc running). Has anyone added more batteries to increase longevity? I do have a Genny, but its noisy during the peace of fishing. I also notice battery drainage when trolling at low RPM (below 700)... is that normal?

2- Anyone add reel/pulley system for running big boards? Ideas on mounting them to the arch?

3- Anyone use an Anchor Ball so you may anchor off the stern? Windless on the bow is fine, but the boat swings a bunch in the wind.
Thanks for any and all help.
 

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