380DA Floor Project

Are you going to glue down the plywood as well as screw it? I am following all these threads and planning my own floor update project. As I see what you are doing I am thinking I would use construction adhesive and brad nails to install the plywood surface. That is to avoid that floating laminate floor feeling you can get with a plywood underlay that can lift and warp.
 
Creekwood said:
Are you going to glue down the plywood as well as screw it? I am following all these threads and planning my own floor update project. As I see what you are doing I am thinking I would use construction adhesive and brad nails to install the plywood surface. That is to avoid that floating laminate floor feeling you can get with a plywood underlay that can lift and warp.
Click to expand...
Hi:
I am going to use stainless steel star drive screws and no construction adhesive for the plywood subfloor. Using nails (unless ring nails) could easily pull out and the plywood would become loose and lift, also the floor of the cabin itself is heavy fiberglass roving covered plywood so I doubt you can drive a nail in. Heavy layer of adhesives is what I am trying to get away from.

These 1-5/8" X #8 screws are what I am using:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Grip-Rite-1-5-8-in-x-8-in-Stainless-Steel-Deck-Screw-MAXS62689/203563789

I like knowing that if for some future repair or modification I need to remove the plywood, I can back out some screws and lift the plywood out and not be back to ripping out a glued product which would leave scabs of wood and glue behind.
 
Gallf1 said:
Hi:
I am going to use stainless steel star drive screws and no construction adhesive for the plywood subfloor. Using nails (unless ring nails) could easily pull out and the plywood would become loose and lift, also the floor of the cabin itself is heavy fiberglass roving covered plywood so I doubt you can drive a nail in. Heavy layer of adhesives is what I am trying to get away from.

These 1-5/8" X #8 screws are what I am using:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Grip-Rite-1-5-8-in-x-8-in-Stainless-Steel-Deck-Screw-MAXS62689/203563789

I like knowing that if for some future repair or modification I need to remove the plywood, I can back out some screws and lift the plywood out and not be back to ripping out a glued product which would leave scabs of wood and glue behind.
Click to expand...
I guess the fiberglass skin would screw up my idea for a brad nailer. Why such long screws though? You are only going through 3/8, so why do you need 1.25 inches of screw down into the plywood base? I would have thought you would get plenty of hold in glass encapsulated plywood with maybe 1/2" longer than the 3/8, so shorter screws?

I still think I will use adhesive for the sub floor on mine to augment the fasteners and prevent the floating feeling. But my plans are still in my head, yours are on the floor of your boat taking shape. I have the luxury of seeing all the different approaches before I start to rip up the carpet!
 
Creekwood said:
I guess the fiberglass skin would screw up my idea for a brad nailer. Why such long screws though? You are only going through 3/8, so why do you need 1.25 inches of screw down into the plywood base? I would have thought you would get plenty of hold in glass encapsulated plywood with maybe 1/2" longer than the 3/8, so shorter screws?

I still think I will use adhesive for the sub floor on mine to augment the fasteners and prevent the floating feeling. But my plans are still in my head, yours are on the floor of your boat taking shape. I have the luxury of seeing all the different approaches before I start to rip up the carpet!
Click to expand...

Plywood subfloor I am using is 15/32" (basically 1/2") +/- 1/8" Fiberglass overlay(from factory) + 1/2" Plywood under Fiberglass overlay(from factory). Total thickness to penetrate (assuming no humps or voids)= 1-1/8"
So with the screws I purchased, I will have 1/2" "extra" and given that I am not going to go crazy with screws and the areas I will be installing them is very well buries...you will never see them or have them interfere.
 
I went to boat and double checked....factory flooring is actually 1" so plus 1/2" plywood subfloor I am adding, it makes a total of 1-1/2" total thickness, so 1-5/8" screws would be correct.
IMG_1520[1995].jpg
 
Gallf1 said:
I went to boat and double checked....factory flooring is actually 1" so plus 1/2" plywood subfloor I am adding, it makes a total of 1-1/2" total thickness, so 1-5/8" screws would be correct.
Click to expand...
Got it. I thought you were using 3/8. the 1/2 will not flex anywhere near like 3/8 would. And you probably want full bite to pull the 1/2 down if the existing floor is not perfectly level.
 
Started cutting and installing plywood subfloor. Something really satisfying about transferring template to plywood and cutting. They all fit with no trimming on boat.

When all are cut and dry fitted (including new floor hatches), I will start screwing it down. I also plan to place some sealing caulk in all the joints so that water cant get in to the end grain.
IMG_1524[2000].jpg
IMG_1522[1999].jpg
IMG_1525[2001].jpg


I am trying to keep the panels as large as possible to prevent joint lines and I stagger them so that they dont line up. Sanding the edges after cutting also makes the job neater (and wont snag any of the remaining carpet trim on the boat.
 
Final plywood floor piece done (forward cabin)...
It took only (3) full 4'x8' sheets of 15/32" plywood to do the entire subfloor. Will start screwing down the plywood today.

Still need to get some 3/4" Plywood to make new, larger floor hatch covers as the originals were designed to be wrapped in carpet and are too small now.

IMG_1533[2017].jpg
Going to pickup the sample Traffic Master Allure Ultra 100% waterproof flooring tomorrow and make sure the color I selected (Maple) is the right shade before I order enough to do the entire cabin.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Allure-...ank-Flooring-19-8-sq-ft-case-187214/202490896
 
Thanks for the detailed progress. Couple questions. You are using laminate flooring. When I laid down my laminate flooring in my condo, I started on one straight wall and worked across the room plank by plank. Once I got to the other side, I locked/snapped the last plank with a 1/4" gap from the wall, then used a tool to pull the plank inward to lock it in. I then covered the 1/2" gap from the end of the plank to the wall with quarter round. But you can't do this in your cabin floor as all your ends are curved? Also, laminate flooring needs a gap around the perimeter for expansion. How are you going to do this if you will fit right to the edges? And lastly, I hid edge cutting imperfections with the quarter rounds. Are you going to cut all the contours with a jug saw? If so, you are way better at cutting then me as these edges will all be exposed and mine would be rough/jagged. Again, you can't hide with molding.
Thanks.
 
I am going to start on the Stbd side (by the pull out couch) and work my way across to Port.
I have the paper templates (from the plywood cutting) to give me the shape of the planks that need to be trimmed for curves.
I have left the vertical factory carpet trim in the cabin so that the laminate floor will butt up right against it (carpet has at least 3/8” thick pile) so that even with the laminate tight against the carpet to hide any gaps, the carpet will cushion any floor expansion.

With this method, there is no quarter round trim molding required.

I have a portable scroll saw that I will bring down to the boat to make smooth curved cuts.
 
Gallf1 said:
I am going to start on the Stbd side (by the pull out couch) and work my way across to Port.
I have the paper templates (from the plywood cutting) to give me the shape of the planks that need to be trimmed for curves.
I have left the vertical factory carpet trim in the cabin so that the laminate floor will butt up right against it (carpet has at least 3/8” thick pile) so that even with the laminate tight against the carpet to hide any gaps, the carpet will cushion any floor expansion.

With this method, there is no quarter round trim molding required.

I have a portable scroll saw that I will bring down to the boat to make smooth curved cuts.
Click to expand...
Got one of these?
https://www.amazon.com/Saker-Adjust...irregular+curve+cutting&qid=1607479539&sr=8-9
61AFyxhrqdL._AC_SL1200_.jpg
 
New 3/4" plywood floor hatches fabricated and fitted. Had to pay close attention to new hatch lip wood riser underneath the hatches so that the hatches and floor are 100% level to each other. I can see why SR went with carpeting as it is so forgiving (factory laminating just slopped grey gel coat all over hatch lip).

Also put out 1 box of flooring just to see what it will look like.....I like the look!
IMG_1539[2072].jpg
IMG_1540[2078].jpg
 
WOW... Starting to take shape!!!
 
Oh no !! Another project to add to my list. Looking good Gallf1
 
Gallf1 said:
New 3/4" plywood floor hatches fabricated and fitted. Had to pay close attention to new hatch lip wood riser underneath the hatches so that the hatches and floor are 100% level to each other. I can see why SR went with carpeting as it is so forgiving (factory laminating just slopped grey gel coat all over hatch lip).

Also put out 1 box of flooring just to see what it will look like.....I like the look!View attachment 96176 View attachment 96177
Click to expand...

Can you tip and lock the planks together from either end? Looks like it as it appears you’re starting from the middle of the floor and moving outward.
Thanks again for the pics and explanations.
 
midexp said:
Can you tip and lock the planks together from either end? Looks like it as it appears you’re starting from the middle of the floor and moving outward.
Thanks again for the pics and explanations.
Click to expand...
The photo is just the planks laid out just to look at the color/grain and not actual installation.
I am going to install in sections with the port side under the cabinets first. Click lock 3-4 planks,trim to contour and then slide under cabinets.
Then work towards center and starboard side.
 
Finished making sure that the hatch lip "risers" will make the new 3/4" plywood floor hatches 100% level with the subfloor. I sealed and painted them with two coats grey bilge coat paint. I didnt see the need to continue the hatch lip risers all the way around the lip as with a maximum unsupported span of 6", I doubt that no matter how much you weigh :eek: that you are going to seriously deflect 3/4" plywood
IMG_1549[2084].jpg
IMG_1550[2085].jpg
 
Gallf1 said:
Finished making sure that the hatch lip "risers" will make the new 3/4" plywood floor hatches 100% level with the subfloor. I sealed and painted them with two coats grey bilge coat paint. I didnt see the need to continue the hatch lip risers all the way around the lip as with a maximum unsupported span of 6", I doubt that no matter how much you weigh :eek: that you are going to seriously deflect 3/4" plywood View attachment 96445 View attachment 96446
Click to expand...
How did you create a perfect rectangle for the opening ?

nice work so far.... I just got a quote of $7,500 to do the same to my boat ....so following
 
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