40 sedan bridge forum

[my3sons]

Congratulations! Where are you going to be keeping her in Chicago?

 

[mmills023]

Congratulations! Where are you going to be keeping her in Chicago?

Burnham harbor - just got call yesterday from Port Authority yesterday, Slip R1 (a bit close to beginning of dock, lots of traffic). Do you suggest anywhere else?

 

[my3sons]

Burnham harbor - just got call yesterday from Port Authority yesterday, Slip R1 (a bit close to beginning of dock, lots of traffic). Do you suggest anywhere else?

No recommendations from me, I'm not from Chicago. I was just wondering because when we passed through there I got to know a little bit of the lay of the land so to speak. We hung on a mooring ball for 3 nights at Monroe while waiting to get into Dusable. Dusable is nice for transients because it's so close to downtown and Mariano's Market. Burnham was very nice, we loaded up our laundry and rode our bikes down to Burnham to use the washers and dryers, no laundry at Dusable. Ha! Funny how we remember these things...Laundry is a big deal I guess for Loopers.
You may have the opportunity to meet Kurt and Dena from the 400DB Anna Marie. They keep their boat at Burnham, at least they did when we were there. We met them in Charlevoix and then when we were in Chicago we got together for dinner. He posts occasionally here on CSR. Great people, and they have an awesome boat

 

[Carpediem44DB]

Happy Friday! As I get ready to close (fingers crossed) on a new to me 2002 400DB, I have been looking at all the "projects"....erm..."upgrades" available. I came across this 400 in my search and wondered if anyone here has heard of anyone fashioning a hard top for their 400? The pictures available were not great or detailed, but you get the idea. Here is the link (it looks like it was a very old listing) https://www.hmy.com/used-yachts-for-sale/SEA-RAY/2001-40-400-Sedan-Bridge-FRESH-WATER/106431

Found another one - https://www.hmy.com/used-yachts-for-sale/SEA-RAY/2000-40-400-Sedan-Bridge/241789
I have a friend that fabricated his own on a 1998 400 Sedan bridge. Looks great. Big job though. If you want pics and details let me know. I’m two slips down from him.
Carpe

View attachment 54505

 

[mmills023]

Thank you very much! Bought and installed. Works much better than the original - from the outside anyway. Considering options to ease opening from inside the salon.

Great advice, much appreciated!

View attachment 42479

View attachment 42480

This was forever ago - but any chance you remember the thickness of the assembly you picked? Looks like there are 4/5 different thicknesses you can choose. I know its a long shot, but figured I would ask.

 

[Steve S]

This was forever ago - but any chance you remember the thickness of the assembly you picked? Looks like there are 4/5 different thicknesses you can choose. I know its a long shot, but figured I would ask.

I just put that in on my 400 DB yesterday. My door was 1.125 thick.

Several tips as there are no instructions sent with the lock.

1) When removing the old lock assembly make sure you hang on to it as it will drop down into the frame. A real PITA to remove if you let it drop. (Ask me how I know this...LOL).
2) Mark screw lengths when removing old assembly. (the new assembly came with like 30 screws of differing lengths.) Use similar length screw from the new lock system.
3) The lock assembly will have an adjustment screw on it. I had to disassemble the door several times and adjust the screw down. Look at the old assembly for an idea of positioning the screw.
4) The upper (outside) assembly has a bracket that pushes down on the lower assembly, which pushes on the lock to open it. It was too long and when installed it kept the lock assembly open so it wouldn't latch. I ended up simply rebending the bracket with a vice grips. It originally looked like an "L" - I made it square "C" shaped. That shortened the length enough to allow the stroke to move the assemblies correctly.
5) When placing the key assembly in the door, make sure the lock "finger" is mating into the sort of triangular hole in the lower handle assembly. NOT outside the hole or the outer key lock will not work.
5) I installed the handle on the bottom first. This attaches through the bottom of the upper assembly all the way through the door. Then I placed masking tape where the top landed. Placed the handle in position and circled it with a marker, moved the handle to the side and made a cross hatch to find center and drilled the hole through the door. I had to enlarge the handle side of the door slightly to get the screw to mate with the handle.

That's it. Should be an easy job, took me longer than is should because I kept assembling and disassembling the damn thing to make adjustments.

 

[Tigger]

Quick question: what’s the best fuel senders for deisel fuel tanks on SB400?... I think I have a swinging arm type, but I read somewhere that hockey puck might work better?.... Port gauge reads fine but starboard is showing 1/4 when I know the tank’s almost full... I removed the terminals and connected the wires together and the gauge read full, so I’m pretty sure it’s the sender... pic included for clarity... thanks in advance.. there are so many senders on the market, want to make sure I get it right...

 

[CaptRonn]

Quick question: what’s the best fuel senders for deisel fuel tanks on SB400?... I think I have a swinging arm type, but I read somewhere that hockey puck might work better?.... Port gauge reads fine but starboard is showing 1/4 when I know the tank’s almost full... I removed the terminals and connected the wires together and the gauge read full, so I’m pretty sure it’s the sender... pic included for clarity... thanks in advance.. there are so many senders on the market, want to make sure I get it right...

Your sender has to match the gauge you have installed, unless you want to change the gauge as well. Senders aren't universal. Also, senders mounting sizes can vary.

You're best to go back with a similar model.

If it were mine, I would remove the sender and check the movement and the float. Slight chance that the float is stuck and a simple cleaning/adjustment will correct it.

 

[mmills023]

I just put that in on my 400 DB yesterday. My door was 1.125 thick.

Several tips as there are no instructions sent with the lock.

1) When removing the old lock assembly make sure you hang on to it as it will drop down into the frame. A real PITA to remove if you let it drop. (Ask me how I know this...LOL).
2) Mark screw lengths when removing old assembly. (the new assembly came with like 30 screws of differing lengths.) Use similar length screw from the new lock system.
3) The lock assembly will have an adjustment screw on it. I had to disassemble the door several times and adjust the screw down. Look at the old assembly for an idea of positioning the screw.
4) The upper (outside) assembly has a bracket that pushes down on the lower assembly, which pushes on the lock to open it. It was too long and when installed it kept the lock assembly open so it wouldn't latch. I ended up simply rebending the bracket with a vice grips. It originally looked like an "L" - I made it square "C" shaped. That shortened the length enough to allow the stroke to move the assemblies correctly.
5) When placing the key assembly in the door, make sure the lock "finger" is mating into the sort of triangular hole in the lower handle assembly. NOT outside the hole or the outer key lock will not work.
5) I installed the handle on the bottom first. This attaches through the bottom of the upper assembly all the way through the door. Then I placed masking tape where the top landed. Placed the handle in position and circled it with a marker, moved the handle to the side and made a cross hatch to find center and drilled the hole through the door. I had to enlarge the handle side of the door slightly to get the screw to mate with the handle.

That's it. Should be an easy job, took me longer than is should because I kept assembling and disassembling the damn thing to make adjustments.

Thank you - very helpful!

 

[ZZ13]

Just replaced the factory Norcold with a Vitrifigro. Really snug fit. As you see I removed the cabinet moulding and still had barely an 1/8" clearance from the top of the flange. Tightest fit is depth from the two sump hose loops. As you can see the shower sump hose was super brittle and just snapped when I tried to bend it back a bit. So I spliced in a thinner, more flexible hose. It still touches the back of the fully installed fridge.

 

[Drafter]

Just replaced the factory Norcold with a Vitrifigro. Really snug fit. As you see I removed the cabinet moulding and still had barely an 1/8" clearance from the top of the flange. Tightest fit is depth from the two sump hose loops. As you can see the shower sump hose was super brittle and just snapped when I tried to bend it back a bit. So I spliced in a thinner, more flexible hose. It still touches the back of the fully installed fridge.

Interesting....Thanks for the pics. Did you have to reverse the door? Seems like the Norcold is a right side hinge. Had to reverse the last one that I bought, and it was a P.I.A.

 

[ZZ13]

Interesting....Thanks for the pics. Did you have to reverse the door? Seems like the Norcold is a right side hinge. Had to reverse the last one that I bought, and it was a P.I.A.

Yes. I had to reverse the hinges. Regarding the sump hoses, if they become a problem I'll rig up a 90 degree fitting onto the two thru hulls and connect the hoses to it. The last picture is taken by removing the access panel inside the stove cabinet.

 

[Drafter]

I've decided to have some "bridge panels" made out of Sunbrella to match my bimini. According to my wife, people's things fall off of the back when sitting at the settee on the flybridge. Anyone else done this?

 

[cwiert]

TV cabinet removal project nearing completion.

 

[cwiert]

Added a frame yesterday to cover holes and indents.

 

[Drafter]

Wife asked about the possibility of this the other day. Interesting to see what is behind the box, and what is left upon its removal. Thanks for the great pictures during the process! What is your plan for the headliner screw holes?

 

[cwiert]

Wife asked about the possibility of this the other day. Interesting to see what is behind the box, and what is left upon its removal. Thanks for the great pictures during the process! What is your plan for the headliner screw holes?

There are no headliner screw holes. Just the indentation from where the cab was. I'm hoping the foam bounces back over time. There's one hole in the corner with a wire that went to the light that was under the cab. I just need to plug that hole.

 

[Drafter]

There are no headliner screw holes. Just the indentation from where the cab was. I'm hoping the foam bounces back over time. There's one hole in the corner with a wire that went to the light that was under the cab. I just need to plug that hole.

Cool! I would love to get rid of that thing... Warming that vinyl with a hair dryer may soften it up enough to release the indent memory.

 

[Arickosmo]

I'm confused, wasn't the vinyl painted? How did you get rid of the black? I'm totally interested in getting rid of the doghouse.

 

[Arickosmo]

I've decided to have some "bridge panels" made out of Sunbrella to match my bimini. According to my wife, people's things fall off of the back when sitting at the settee on the flybridge. Anyone else done this? View attachment 54803

We're on an inland lake but we have yet to have something fall. Then again, we avoid having extra people with extra stuff.