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Discussion in 'Sport Yachts/Yachts' started by Caseclosed, Aug 8, 2012.
Based on each years spec sheet it was an option in 2001 and earlier and standard in 2002 and 2003.
Now I know, Thanks!
Not an option in '04, but there is no '04 spec sheet for a 400db (That I am aware of) because the 420db was intro'd that year. I have the order from the previous owner and the seat is standard.
Thanks. I found the 2003 spec sheet and saw that it was standard. I didn’t check the others, so I appreciate your leg work! One guy I’ve spoken to had it at home, like someone else said. Another said it was removed because it got destroyed. Yikes! Sounds like if I were to get a boat without one it would be a costly custom project.
You could outfit it with Polywood furniture. Super sturdy and doesn't move around even in rough seas. We have two of their chairs in the cockpit in addition to the factory bench seat.
Neat idea. But unless they make a bench seat with storage they won't accomplish what we want.
The storage undet thst seat is / was not great. I removed mine and love the cockpit space.....allows us to bring along deck chairs to comfortably sit in.
I’ve been on the fence about removing mine on the 44. It’s not a ton of storage under the seat and the cockpit seems much larger when it’s removed. Gives a place for the dog to hang out too????
Are you looking for this seat? If so I have one I pulled out of my boat.
I have developed a leak in the front windshield. I am looking to see if anyone has sourced the window seal? Looking for part number and source if anyone knows. Thanks
Taylor Made part number 8319400. http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/window-seals.77288/#post-878460
Also there is this: http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/40-sedan-bridge-forum.53961/page-109#post-950143
The seal itself just covers the joint between the window and the frame. My windshield had a leak under this seal as well as one above the metal frame. I used the black caulk that the windshield guys use around the window and 5200 above the frame. Both leaks solved.
^ ageed. The taylor inser is cosmetic, and will need to be replaced to get to the "real" problem. The sealant between the glass and frame is going to be brittle and falling apart. This is the leak........dig it out, clean it up and replace with a quality UV compatible silicone.
Afterwards, trim and insert the new weather strip
Is there a trick to removing the trim?
Our old Sharp convection/microwave oven (Model R-820BK) seems to have gone dead.
Any idea what a good replacement unit is?
The R-820 was a 900 Watt, 13 Amp unit. Most of the potential replacements that I have found run 1000 Watts or more and draw 14+ amps. Is a higher power unit likely to cause electrical problems? Overheating issues?
Any cautions with "Inverter" microwave or other cross-over units?
You have 30 amps available on that leg to share with the forward ac unit (about a 10 amp draw when on) and the hot water heater (about a 12 amp draw when on). It's just math, but factory install is already over budget with all three on.
Once you get hold of an edge, the trim pulls easy
No issues of overheating, but amps is amps, exceeding 30 and the breaker trips......You can manage power, and mostly that means turn off the water heater. I replaced with a 1000w convection (Cuisinart CMW-200) and needed to trim the baseplate on the tablesaw to fit.