40 sedan bridge forum

I have a buddy with a 400DB. He is having trouble getting onto CSR. He ask me to post a problem he is having. When he is underway his alarms are going off and saying over voltage. Its reading 17 volts. When his at idle the alarms quit and it reads normal voltage. Anyone else have this problem? Maybe alternator? TIA
 
Ezsteps said:
I have a buddy with a 400DB. He is having trouble getting onto CSR. He ask me to post a problem he is having. When he is underway his alarms are going off and saying over voltage. Its reading 17 volts. When his at idle the alarms quit and it reads normal voltage. Anyone else have this problem? Maybe alternator? TIA
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What year what engines?
 
Both sides? Each engine has an alternator.
 
Debby's Bobber said:
One worse than the other but yes both sides.
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You may want to try and switch the wires at the gauge between engines and see if the readings remain the same. If so, then you likely have a gauge issue. If the readings switch sides, then you may want to consider replacing the alternators if they are original.
 
Voltage regulators are internal to the alternators on Cat OEM alternators. Leece-Neville shows the regulator as a separate part, but I doubt you will find one on Sunday aft.

Suggest you remove the + output wire on the bad alternator and run the generator with the convertor turned on to get the boat home.
 
Prosideus said:
The problem with the original design is that the rails the generator sets on do not expand to rest on the Stringers. I Replaced the plywood platform with coosa board including the areas port and stbd of the generator. I also bought new generator rails and had them extended to have the weight resting on the Stringers
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That looks great. Did you take the rails to a shop to extend them? Thanks for the pictures
 
Prosideus said:
I did. About $100.
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Thanks again. You did an incredible job. I'll post pictures when I finish. Given the difficulty accessing the "back" of the generator, I'm trying to think of a method of installation that enables me to move the generator to access the back for maintenance.
 
PMC said:
I cant say much on the exhaust, seems fine from the picture. However, the seal on that pump is leaking
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Thanks. I suspected that due to the rust on that side of the rail. I'm glad to have another set of eyes viewing it. Thanks again!
 
Need some help. I am trying to find the make and model number for the galley door hinges, specifically the door under the sink. Has anyone replaced these hinges and has the information.
 
Can someone tell me how many zincs are on the 40db with cat 3116 and what are the locations
 
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F18B47D8-7164-40A2-9102-55187A45F4F0.jpeg

Does anyone know where these latches can be purchased, I did not see them on FPMarine’s site. 1997 400 Sedan bridge salon entry door latches
Thanks
 
Vacuflush question. Where is the actual vacuum pressure in the system? I ask because I’m having issues with the master head pump running - sometimes continuously and sometimes it turns off and back on. And I notice that I don’t get the strong “whoosh” when flushing that head like I do in the guest head. There’s a bit of a water leak down in the master, too. I have the toilet seals and plan on replacing them this weekend. And I ordered the seals for the other head and the duck bills for the whole system (8). I will do the whole job. But for now, I want to do the minimum necessary to fix the issue and not impact my upcoming trips.

I ask my question about where the pressure is because I’m thinking that if the pressure is between pump and toilet, then the toilet seals might solve the whole problem. But if the presssue is behind the pump (on the black water tank side) then I’m going to have to do duck bulls ASAP. Obviously, it could be both, too.

So... is my thought that it might just be the seals valid, or is it just wishful thinking? :rolleyes:

Thanks
 
Rudy "At Last" said:
Need some help. I am trying to find the make and model number for the galley door hinges, specifically the door under the sink. Has anyone replaced these hinges and has the information.
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On mine these are the Blum hinges - available at Home Depot, Lowes, Lee Valley etc. You just need to determine if it is an inset or overlay needed. I've been changing mine to a 120 degree opening to allow more elbow room to get in/out of the cupboards but vendors don't carry all the models that Blum makes so your local supply might be limited accordingly. I sourced mine from Lee Valley and they have the 120 degree version.
 
scooper321 said:
Vacuflush question. Where is the actual vacuum pressure in the system? I ask because I’m having issues with the master head pump running - sometimes continuously and sometimes it turns off and back on. And I notice that I don’t get the strong “whoosh” when flushing that head like I do in the guest head. There’s a bit of a water leak down in the master, too. I have the toilet seals and plan on replacing them this weekend. And I ordered the seals for the other head and the duck bills for the whole system (8). I will do the whole job. But for now, I want to do the minimum necessary to fix the issue and not impact my upcoming trips.

I ask my question about where the pressure is because I’m thinking that if the pressure is between pump and toilet, then the toilet seals might solve the whole problem. But if the presssue is behind the pump (on the black water tank side) then I’m going to have to do duck bulls ASAP. Obviously, it could be both, too.

So... is my thought that it might just be the seals valid, or is it just wishful thinking? :rolleyes:

Thanks
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I believe the system is under vacuum between the vacuum generator and the toilet. When activated is sucks the contents to the vacuum generator, through the vacuum pump to the main tank.
 
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