40 sedan bridge forum

Given that you found this on the boat I assume you have an all-chain rode (which I do as well). After setting the anchor you don't want the chain around the windless to take the load of the boat (in current and/or wind) - there is a chance of damaging the windless. Using the bridle allows the load to be moved to the cleats instead. When installed, you would just let out a little more chain so the bridle takes the load. The approach works with a rope rode as well but there is usually a cleat beside the windless that it gets tied off to instead. Chain, much harder to tie off on a cleat! ;)
Got it! Thanks. That makes sense. I read they are supposed to absorb shock as well. The ropes do not appear that flexible, but likely more so than the chain. I only have about 60' of chain, which should limit their usefulness, as in more than 8' of water I'm usually into the rope and tie it off on the cleat adjacent to the windlass. So far, when still within the chain, I've just been wrapping the chain around that cleat. Now I'll use the brindle or snubber. Would you bother using the snubber with the rope?
 
When I had a rope rode I just tied off on the cleat beside the windlass. It was a smaller boat though (340 Sundancer), with a larger boat I might have considered a bridle if always anchoring in rough weather/conditions.
 
I too am looking at a 400 sedan bridge. I have called around for insurance quotes in the northeast and I am being told $3,000 to 5,000 per year. This is through progressive and boat us respectively. Love to know how to get 1,500. Thanks.
I'm inland lakes and that seems incredibly high. Is it your first boat?
Just my too sense.
 
I am getting close to new battery time. I have just had group 27 dual purpose wet cell batteries. Due to some fellow boater experiences I have lost confidence in AGM batteries based on the way I boat. Plus my wet cells have worked out just fine for five years. So I plan to get group 31 wet cell. But I am not sure dual purpose is really needed to start engines and run the house 12v. I am considering going with deep cycle, figuring they will start the Cummins engines just fine and be the best wet cell option for the house systems. Has anyone done this and how did it go?
 
I am getting close to new battery time. I have just had group 27 dual purpose wet cell batteries. Due to some fellow boater experiences I have lost confidence in AGM batteries based on the way I boat. Plus my wet cells have worked out just fine for five years. So I plan to get group 31 wet cell. But I am not sure dual purpose is really needed to start engines and run the house 12v. I am considering going with deep cycle, figuring they will start the Cummins engines just fine and be the best wet cell option for the house systems. Has anyone done this and how did it go?
Great question.
I am thinking of also having deep cycle on my house / starting battery on one bank and strictly starting batteries on the other side. I think the big issue is CCA rating. I could emergency start using the starting batteries anyway right???
 
I am getting close to new battery time. I have just had group 27 dual purpose wet cell batteries. Due to some fellow boater experiences I have lost confidence in AGM batteries based on the way I boat. Plus my wet cells have worked out just fine for five years. So I plan to get group 31 wet cell. But I am not sure dual purpose is really needed to start engines and run the house 12v. I am considering going with deep cycle, figuring they will start the Cummins engines just fine and be the best wet cell option for the house systems. Has anyone done this and how did it go?
Hi Bill, Thought you knew that was my set-up. Maybe not. Anyway, I have 4 U.S. Battery group 31 deep cycle wet cells for the mains, 2 group 27 wet starter batteries for the thruster and a sealed group 24 wet interstate marine cranking for the gen. Previous mains were Deka dual purpose 31's that were 5 years old. They were fine but I wanted new batteries before going south last year so I changed. My battery guy recommended the true deep cycle for the mains because of them also being the house. Really gave them a workout with all the anchoring last winter and no problems. BUT, I've never had to crank on them for more than a few seconds to get the engines running, so don't know how they would handle the high amp loading of any prolonged cranking.
 
Traveler's insurance here. About 1500. Also keep in mind in New England she is considered on the hard Nov. Thru April. So that might make a difference... If you are in
Marion Talk to Paul M. Dixon Insurance in New Bedford. That's who got me this price.
 
Hi Bill, Thought you knew that was my set-up. Maybe not. Anyway, I have 4 U.S. Battery group 31 deep cycle wet cells for the mains, 2 group 27 wet starter batteries for the thruster and a sealed group 24 wet interstate marine cranking for the gen. Previous mains were Deka dual purpose 31's that were 5 years old. They were fine but I wanted new batteries before going south last year so I changed. My battery guy recommended the true deep cycle for the mains because of them also being the house. Really gave them a workout with all the anchoring last winter and no problems. BUT, I've never had to crank on them for more than a few seconds to get the engines running, so don't know how they would handle the high amp loading of any prolonged cranking.

Same here. Just replaced all four batteries in my boat with group 31 Duracell deep cycles from Sams. $99 each. At a marina I am plugged in. And I have a generator. So I really only need the deep so when I do long weekends on the hook. I expect to get 3 to 4 seasons out of these, at which time I will replace them. I can’t see a more expensive battery last thing any longer to make it worth the cost.
 
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Hi Bill, Thought you knew that was my set-up. Maybe not. Anyway, I have 4 U.S. Battery group 31 deep cycle wet cells for the mains, 2 group 27 wet starter batteries for the thruster and a sealed group 24 wet interstate marine cranking for the gen. Previous mains were Deka dual purpose 31's that were 5 years old. They were fine but I wanted new batteries before going south last year so I changed. My battery guy recommended the true deep cycle for the mains because of them also being the house. Really gave them a workout with all the anchoring last winter and no problems. BUT, I've never had to crank on them for more than a few seconds to get the engines running, so don't know how they would handle the high amp loading of any prolonged cranking.
I remember, Mark. Was fishing for other experiences. The house batteries are really just the two starboard batteries. They power most everything that is 12v. The two port batteries just power the helm electronics and a few bilge pumps. All low current stuff. One idea I have is deep cycle starboard batteries and cranking port batteries. There really isn't anything I'd have on with the port batteries without engine running other than the Tridata for depth during anchoring. Then if starboard batteries lose their umpf to start the starboard engine, I could engage the two port cranking batteries with the emergency start switch. Thinking out loud here.
 
I am getting close to new battery time. I have just had group 27 dual purpose wet cell batteries. Due to some fellow boater experiences I have lost confidence in AGM batteries based on the way I boat. Plus my wet cells have worked out just fine for five years. So I plan to get group 31 wet cell. But I am not sure dual purpose is really needed to start engines and run the house 12v. I am considering going with deep cycle, figuring they will start the Cummins engines just fine and be the best wet cell option for the house systems. Has anyone done this and how did it go?
I made the mistake of swapping all my batteries in in 2015 with blue top's (4 house and 1 Gen) without checking the settings for my charger. I used them most of the season and accidentally cooked the 4 house by overcharging and not using a charger designed for AGM. In haste (and no warranty on the blue tops due to my mistake)I needed quick replacements so I picked up some Exide wet cells from home depot to tide me over for the end of the season before swapping everything out. I ended up installing a inverter behind the starboard couch and placing two group 34 blue tops in there with a charger to run the outlet for the TV and the one by the 12V outlet before the steps. (as to have 120 volts when needed and not have to run the gen to watch TV while on the water) I picked up a set of truck 0 gauge jumper cables in case I needed to jump the house from the inverter batteries. To this day since the end of 2015 I have not had a problem with the Exide, the Gen's blue top, or the Inverter battery's. I moor quite a bit so I like having all the juice from 4 batteries running the house. With the redundancy of additional 2 battery's as a backup I personally don't need specific Start battery setup.
 
Same here. Just replaced all four batteries in my boat with group 31 Duracell deep cell from Sams. $99 each. At a marina I am plugged in. And I have a generator. So I really only need the deep so when I do long weekends on the hook. I expect to get 3 to 4 seasons out of these, at which time I will replace them. I can’t see a more expensive battery last thing any longer to make it worth the cost.
I've considered those exact batteries. The price and Duracell brand concerns me. Reviews of them are not great. Plus my buddy has not done well with the Sams Duracell AGMs.
 
I've considered those exact batteries. The price and Duracell brand concerns me. Reviews of them are not great. Plus my buddy has not done well with the Sams Duracell AGMs.

It’s my understanding that Deka makes the Duracell’s. I could be wrong, of course.

And, to your comment about mixing P and SB technologies, I don’t think it’s necessary. As my old DC batteries were dying, I had no trouble using the battery bridge switch on the helm to start both engines. And they were all DC’s.
 
It’s my understanding that Deka makes the Duracell’s. I could be wrong, of course.

And, to your comment about mixing P and SB technologies, I don’t think it’s necessary. As my old DC batteries were dying, I had no trouble using the battery bridge switch on the helm to start both engines. And they were all DC’s.
That's good to hear. I like Deka. Those are my current wet cells that are going pretty good at 5 year mark.
 
I went with the 4 deep cycle even though only 2 of them act as house batteries because after a years service I swap port to starboard so that the port batteries can run the house for a year, then switch again after that year, rotating them starting to house/starting. Before all the traveling, I would get 7 years on Deka Marine Master dual purpose batteries.
I'm not going to say anything bad about AGM's because they are all the rage and I have never tried them, but my battery source that I have used for 30+ years for our business has told me not to bother, but he would be glad to sell them to me if I wanted to try them.
 
Hi guys
If anyone is on their boat over the next while, I’d appreciate getting the dimensions of the mattress in the master as well as the twins in the second stateroom. I’d like to get foam toppers for them but I’m in Canada and my boat is wrapped for the winter. I know the mattress in the master flares out a bit but the measurement at the widest part would be great. 2002 400DB. Thanks
 
Hi guys
If anyone is on their boat over the next while, I’d appreciate getting the dimensions of the mattress in the master as well as the twins in the second stateroom. I’d like to get foam toppers for them but I’m in Canada and my boat is wrapped for the winter. I know the mattress in the master flares out a bit but the measurement at the widest part would be great. 2002 400DB. Thanks
I did this when I bought the boat. It's essentially a queen mattress with the foot end about 6" short and the corners rounded off. I bought a queen memory foam topper and cut the one end to fit. I didn't have to cut the other three sides.

I recommend someone double check my memory with a measurement. My boat is 400 miles away right now.
 
I put a 10" temperpedic in 2 years ago and my memory concurs with Bills. I do know I started with a queen and didn't trim much if any off the sides at the top.
 
This is timely as he$$. We have been discussing a new mattress all last season. I can’t take another season on the OEM mattress - even with a thick topper. I was planning to come here and search for the discussions on mattress sizes, and ... poof! There it is! Thanks, gents! Pulled the trigger on a new 10” mattress this morning. Hmmm. Probably ought to order a new electric carving knife, too! Lol

And: Plumbing Guy, welcome to the forum!
 
This is timely as he$$. We have been discussing a new mattress all last season. I can’t take another season on the OEM mattress - even with a thick topper. I was planning to come here and search for the discussions on mattress sizes, and ... poof! There it is! Thanks, gents! Pulled the trigger on a new 10” mattress this morning. Hmmm. Probably ought to order a new electric carving knife, too! Lol

And: Plumbing Guy, welcome to the forum!
I got lucky. Previous owner was all about interior comfort. They replaced the factory mattress with one of those expensive regular thickness mattresses from that marine mattress. Forgot the name of it. Now I remember. Handcraft Mattress Company - HMC.
 
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On the battery topic, I have had 4 Deka 27 deep cycle since I bought the boat 2 years ago. They start the Cummings just fine. Unless we've been on the hook 2 days without moving. Then the stb side needs a little help from the cross over switch to get started. That's with both fridges running!! I plan to add 3 solar panels (300 Watt) to the bimini next spring to keep the stb pair topped off when out.:)
 

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