40 sedan bridge forum

Thank you for your advice. I dont understand hydraulics well enough to know if the system also requires bleeding back to the steering ram or not. I found a great how to youtube. Sorry cant copy a link but it had EASY in the title. Basically put 3/8 tubing on both ram bleeders, connect to a tee and run a single hose to hole cut in inverted bottle of steering fluid connected to the filler tube kit you mentioned. Turning the wheel in both directions flushed out the old transmission fluid out and replaced it air free hydraulic steering fluid in minutes. However the bruises all over my body will take longer.
Removed a quart then added 1 3/4 quart. We could not find any leak.
 
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Steve S said:
Anyone know where I can get the following items?

1) Main Berth port closet light switch
2) Indirect light (stairway) cover
3) Bilge light cover (Plastic).
4) Round glass for ceiling light fixtures. As I changed the one in the second stateroom, I found one had no diffusion glass.

Thanks!

-Steve
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Did you ever find the light switch? I'm looking for a couple of these for my 2003 400 Sedan Bridge. The switch is a combination light switch and door clasp. See attached image. If you found some please share where I can do the same. Thanks!
 

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Cyberfly said:
Did you ever find the light switch? I'm looking for a couple of these for my 2003 400 Sedan Bridge. The switch is a combination light switch and door clasp. See attached image. If you found some please share where I can do the same. Thanks!
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Nope, I never found one. Mine is the push button style like on a refrigerator.
 
Cyberfly said:
Did you ever find the light switch? I'm looking for a couple of these for my 2003 400 Sedan Bridge. The switch is a combination light switch and door clasp. See attached image. If you found some please share where I can do the same. Thanks!
Click to expand...

By the way, CF, welcome to CSR and the 400DB forum!
Post some pics of your vessel! I’d be interested to know what hydraulic platform you have.
 
Looks like my Norcold galley fridge may be toast (again). The factory unit was shot when we bought the boat, and replaced with a Norcold DE-0061. 4 years in, and I think the new one is toast too. I've got 120v and 12v to it with nothing on. Probably the $500+/- power supply. Seems to have happened around the same time that I swapped out the house batteries last week. Can't imagine that to be any problem. Not sure if it's just coincidence. This will be the 3rd time that I will have bought this P.O.S. after buying one for my old boat as well. It works fine when it works, but seems to be poorly built. Thinking about spending a little more and going with a Vitrigo or Isotherm. Fit and finish seem much nicer. Has anybody done this swap or have another option besides the Norcold?
 
Drafter said:
Looks like my Norcold galley fridge may be toast (again). The factory unit was shot when we bought the boat, and replaced with a Norcold DE-0061. 4 years in, and I think the new one is toast too. I've got 120v and 12v to it with nothing on. Probably the $500+/- power supply. Seems to have happened around the same time that I swapped out the house batteries last week. Can't imagine that to be any problem. Not sure if it's just coincidence. This will be the 3rd time that I will have bought this P.O.S. after buying one for my old boat as well. It works fine when it works, but seems to be poorly built. Thinking about spending a little more and going with a Vitrigo or Isotherm. Fit and finish seem much nicer. Has anybody done this swap or have another option besides the Norcold?
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Many of us have put in the Vitrifrigo dp2600. It fits into the existing opening. Just barely.
 
Has anyone removed the top side Venturi frame shown in this picture? I have two reasons to remove it. First, the frame is bowed up from shrinking canvas pulling up on it and there is a gap between the edge of the glass and the rubber seal. It’s bowed up about 1/2”. Two, that side acrylic piece is crazed and needs to be replaced. I’ve tried refinishing it but the clarity lasts about as long as a cars foggy headlights when refreshed.

The front part of the frame comes off easy. Two screws hold the cap on and then there is a side screw holding the top on under that. That all came out fine. But at the other end the side screw is covered by a cap that appears just to be caulked in place. I tried cutting the caulk but I still could not pry the cap off.

So I solved #1 by just removing the front end. It hinged up enough pivoting on the back screw, for me to bend the frame back flatter to the way it should be. Picture is after I flattened it. Still have to figure out how to get that rear cap off.
DE1BDE73-C4A4-456F-9F89-6C8E69541411.jpeg
 
Looks Like CAT is discontinuing their SAEO oil and has updated their recommendations for the Engine Oils to use in the 3116 and 3126. This is a copy of a post on anther SeaRay forum (not sure if its this one) that was forwarded on to me so thought I would share, apologies if its old news.

CAT has discontinued their SAEO and has changed their recommendation to DEO 10/30 or DEO 15/40. Apparently the chemical makeup of multi-viscosity oils has improved to the point that it is ok to use. Saw this email on the SeaRay forum. I have attached the pdf as well.


Description: Hello DSN,
Attached document show that up until recently, SAEO 30 or 40 was the only oil to be used in 3116 & 3126 marine engines. It is also stated in SEBU6164, O&M, fluid recommendations for this engine. It is also well known by customers who own these. Now those oils are being discontinued and the attached IRM states to use multi-grade oil instead. Something that the other documents state will be harmful to these engines. Can the product group explain what oil can be used in these engines now and is there supporting documentation that states it will not cause issues? 

What is your Question:  

Resolution: The history here is important to understand when expressing risk. The 3126 and 3116 marine engines were the first CAT engines to use sea water after coolers. The initial cooler designs were prone to fouling due the viscosity improvers in the multi-grade oils at that time (API rated CF engine oils). CF Multi grade Diesel Engine oils were introduced in 1994 and the API (American Petroleum Institute) has stated they will no longer certify CF rated oils and the rating is considered obsolete. API rated engine oils with the CF rating were replaced by API CH rated engine oils in 1998 for example. Currently the API rating for Multi grade Diesel Engine oils is at the CK rating. The 3126 commercial production engine has long been retired and after cooler designs have evolved significantly in subsequent years. Sea water after coolers are on most of our diesel marine engines running multi-grade oils. The changes in additives (i.e. viscosity improvers) used in engine oils and the formulations have improved to the point that using the Multi grade oils recommended for the application in IRM PELJ2736 will not affect the engines.
SEBU 6251 takes time to update, and the fluids group here at CAT need to have substantial amount of changes to warrant the time it takes to do a rev change to the engine fluid manuals (SEBU6250, SEBU6251), that will lag any IRM on fluid changes but the manuals will be updated and that portion on SAEO removed.
I also attached the part numbers for their multi-viscosity oil replacement recommendation. The last 3 partnumbers are recommended for 10W30 applications.
 
Halnan01 said:
Looks Like CAT is discontinuing their SAEO oil and has updated their recommendations for the Engine Oils to use in the 3116 and 3126. This is a copy of a post on anther SeaRay forum (not sure if its this one) that was forwarded on to me so thought I would share, apologies if its old news.

CAT has discontinued their SAEO and has changed their recommendation to DEO 10/30 or DEO 15/40. Apparently the chemical makeup of multi-viscosity oils has improved to the point that it is ok to use. Saw this email on the SeaRay forum. I have attached the pdf as well.


Description: Hello DSN,
Attached document show that up until recently, SAEO 30 or 40 was the only oil to be used in 3116 & 3126 marine engines. It is also stated in SEBU6164, O&M, fluid recommendations for this engine. It is also well known by customers who own these. Now those oils are being discontinued and the attached IRM states to use multi-grade oil instead. Something that the other documents state will be harmful to these engines. Can the product group explain what oil can be used in these engines now and is there supporting documentation that states it will not cause issues? 

What is your Question:  

Resolution: The history here is important to understand when expressing risk. The 3126 and 3116 marine engines were the first CAT engines to use sea water after coolers. The initial cooler designs were prone to fouling due the viscosity improvers in the multi-grade oils at that time (API rated CF engine oils). CF Multi grade Diesel Engine oils were introduced in 1994 and the API (American Petroleum Institute) has stated they will no longer certify CF rated oils and the rating is considered obsolete. API rated engine oils with the CF rating were replaced by API CH rated engine oils in 1998 for example. Currently the API rating for Multi grade Diesel Engine oils is at the CK rating. The 3126 commercial production engine has long been retired and after cooler designs have evolved significantly in subsequent years. Sea water after coolers are on most of our diesel marine engines running multi-grade oils. The changes in additives (i.e. viscosity improvers) used in engine oils and the formulations have improved to the point that using the Multi grade oils recommended for the application in IRM PELJ2736 will not affect the engines.
SEBU 6251 takes time to update, and the fluids group here at CAT need to have substantial amount of changes to warrant the time it takes to do a rev change to the engine fluid manuals (SEBU6250, SEBU6251), that will lag any IRM on fluid changes but the manuals will be updated and that portion on SAEO removed.
I also attached the part numbers for their multi-viscosity oil replacement recommendation. The last 3 partnumbers are recommended for 10W30 applications.
Click to expand...
Rotella SAE30 meets the original Cat specs on the oil for the 3116 engines.
 
Has anyone replaced their reading lamps? I’ve seen some links in this thread for what appears to be the original lights from a company called DRSA, model Cedar Key. But I’m looking to perhaps get away from the gold brass look and I’m curious what people may have used in their place. One of mine was recently pulled off the wall (see pic) so this is a good opportunity to look at replacing all four with something more modern rather than simply buying the same, dated fixture. What have you guys done?
322040C3-5064-484E-B0EE-115143ADB09F.jpeg
 
Pressure regulator installed at dockside water inlet, still no water. Any other ideas/suggestions?

Thanks.
 
Strypes said:
Pressure regulator installed at dockside water inlet, still no water. Any other ideas/suggestions?

Thanks.
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The shore water just taps into the main line after the water pumps via the line disappearing into the compartment wall in the picture. If you are not getting flow from shore connection, either the regulator (White thing in the right) is clogged or installed backwards, or one of the four connectors shown is plugged. With the shore water in can you get water out of the spigot right next to it?
8579A2A0-6745-46ED-9885-B1A14B90CD8E.jpeg
 
ZZ13 said:
The shore water just taps into the main line after the water pumps via the line disappearing into the compartment wall in the picture. If you are not getting flow from shore connection, either the regulator (White thing in the right) is clogged or installed backwards, or one of the four connectors shown is plugged. With the shore water in can you get water out of the spigot right next to it?
View attachment 112903
Click to expand...
Thanks. I'll check the spigot this afternoon, and check the connections.

Cheers
 
scooper321 said:
Has anyone replaced their reading lamps? I’ve seen some links in this thread for what appears to be the original lights from a company called DRSA, model Cedar Key. But I’m looking to perhaps get away from the gold brass look and I’m curious what people may have used in their place. One of mine was recently pulled off the wall (see pic) so this is a good opportunity to look at replacing all four with something more modern rather than simply buying the same, dated fixture. What have you guys done?
View attachment 112898
Click to expand...
I did these. Like them quite a bit as a replacement.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZNSRHJM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(Sorry for the image quality, I had just reupholstered the backboard section pic wasn't for the lights)
51wd9HdgZTL._AC_SX679_.jpg 20210428_164756.jpg
 
Steve S said:
Rotella SAE30 meets the original Cat specs on the oil for the 3116 engines.
Click to expand...
Hey Steve, Yes and that’s what I have been using based on Cats previous recommendations.
It now seems though based on the latest bulletin that those recommendations have changed and a Multi-Viscosity oil can also be used as well.
 
For those of us with the Cummins mechanical engines (6CTA's) how many zinc's are on each engine? I know there are at least 3: two on the AC and one on the HE. I thought there was one on the gear oil cooler, but I can't find it in any engine image. Where is that one? And are there any others?
 
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