410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

[Stee6043]

Thanks. I don't believe in one time miracles. Any specifics to support your opinion. I appreciate your input.

I tried a product called "Hydrosilex" this winter on my boat. I did a side by side with my old trusty Meguires Flagship wax. On a clean surface, indoors, the results were remarkable. The Hydrysilex did absolutely nothing. Even when using their "Rewind" product to prep the surface before the ceramic was applied. The ole Meguires performed as expected - a pretty decent shine after one application, even better after two.

So....I wasted $50+. The upshot is that their products smell really good so I've been using them for random cleaning needs around the boat. Great on toilets

 

[jzizler]

I'd be interested to hear how you make out with this project. I have an icemaker that has started to make some noise. I'm contemplating a fridge swap out while the wife is not looking (she prefers the ice maker)...

Replaced icemaker with a Nova Kool 1200R fridge. Fits like a glove and works great. Appears to be the only fridge on the market that fits in that tight space.

 

[Stee6043]

Replaced icemaker with a Nova Kool 1200R fridge. Fits like a glove and works great. Appears to be the only fridge on the market that fits in that tight space.

That looks great. Nice. Did you need to modify that front plate at all or did it fit right in the existing ice maker spot?

 

[jzizler]

That looks great. Nice. Did you need to modify that front plate at all or did it fit right in the existing ice maker spot?

Modified the front slightly. Job was really not too bad.

 

[Pairadocs]

I tried a product called "Hydrosilex" this winter on my boat. I did a side by side with my old trusty Meguires Flagship wax. On a clean surface, indoors, the results were remarkable. The Hydrysilex did absolutely nothing. Even when using their "Rewind" product to prep the surface before the ceramic was applied. The ole Meguires performed as expected - a pretty decent shine after one application, even better after two.

So....I wasted $50+. The upshot is that their products smell really good so I've been using them for random cleaning needs around the boat. Great on toilets

Much appreciated. Thanks for the additional information.

 

[yobub]

1998 400 Sundancer. I'm replacing the bilge pumps and floats in the shower sumps. Yeah, I'm installing bilge pumps on a Saturday night....

There are two sumps each with a bilge pump and float, and then an "overflow" bilge pump with float in the bottom of the bilge. The previous pumps had a whole generation of splices so I'm trying to clean it up.

I located the brown/orange that seems to be the incoming 12v positive. There is only one 12v positive wire for 2 pumps which surprises me, but the wiring diagram only shows one sump so maybe that is why. I've also found the black that seems to be the 12v negative, and the pumps all work with those connected.

My question is this: There are two brown wires (no stripes) that come from the wire loom and are wired into the forward sump bilge pump, and these are spliced together with one brown wire running out to the sump and a gray wire running out to the float switch.

In the aft sump, there were two green wires coming out of the wire loom, spliced together, and run into the into the positive power brown into the pump and the grey into the float. Since these were green I would have thought these would have been grounds.

Is this how this should be wired? Why are there two wires run in? Without the green wires connected the aft sump float triggers the aft sump bilge pump properly, and (as far as I know) I don't have any switch to manually trigger these pumps. The owners manual wiring schematic doesn't show how these green wires connect, and I want to make sure I set it all up right.

EDIT: I found the sump float listed on a separate page on the wiring schematic. It looks like the greens go to the monitor panel lights. It still doesn't explain why both greens are wired together - it seems like one green should come out of each float, so that when the float activates, the wiring sends power both to the pump and to light the light on the monitor panel. Do I have that right?

 

[Pairadocs]

Re: 410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread

Replaced the fridge with a Vitrifrigo and could not be any happier. Bigger, quieter, has an interior light. The bad news is that you have to remove the Nevercold and the fridge cabinet to get the new fridge inside the boat and then put the fridge cabinet back. It is a pain in the posterior.

Ditto. I agree with the Vitifrgio being great, and the replacement being challenging.

 

[HUMPH]

View attachment 68131

i added two tabs this winter (one over each prop pocket) as mine does the same. Should be able to water test in a month or so.

I didn’t think the Express needed much lift with the straight drives and engines farther forward?

 

[HUMPH]

Ditto. I agree with the Vitifrgio being great, and the replacement being challenging.

No idea why it’s sideways, edited it and it still uploads this way.

 

[jzizler]

The actuator that lifts my hatch appears to be going. Can anyone recommend a replacement? Thanks

 

[JVM225]

Now you tell me after I rounded one off in the transmission cooler!!!

I went to a Cat Marine Engine Maintenance Seminar last week at my local Cat Dealer. The guy doing the class recommended Loctite C5A Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant on the threads for all the anode plugs.
That should help prevent another tough one in the future.

 

[Captain Brian]

JZIZLER, I replaced my actuator about 7 years ago, at the time here is the info I gathered:


2001 410 DA Gas
12" throw
20" hole to hole closed
32" hole to hole extended
currently installed Warner DM12-20B5-12CE 2100

Warner 1-800-825-6544


They were from Warner Electric, their catalogue changes so I can't say what is now available, take a look at their site or give them a call

 

[jzizler]

JZIZLER, I replaced my actuator about 7 years ago, at the time here is the info I gathered:


2001 410 DA Gas
12" throw
20" hole to hole closed
32" hole to hole extended
currently installed Warner DM12-20B5-12CE 2100

Warner 1-800-825-6544


They were from Warner Electric, their catalogue changes so I can't say what is now available, take a look at their site or give them a call[/QUOTE
I wonder if that's the same specs for a Sundancer. Thanks for the information.

 

[Captain Brian]

Has anyone added reinforcement struts from the transom to the underside of the swim platform? I am looking into putting a seaweed dinghy davit system and the weight of the dinghy is cantilevered way out over the platform, I think it would help to have 2 struts to help hold up the weight.

Any suggestions?

 

[Stee6043]

Hey 400/410 owners - have any of you guys found a neat trick for pulling a wire from the stereo head unit in the cabin all the way up to the helm?

I spent an hour this weekend taking most of the starboard "cubby wall" apart in the mid-cabin area. Without removing the electrical outlet completely I don't see how that wall section comes out. It was at this point I decided to go no further. I was going to start breaking stuff.

Another thought I had was trying to use the existing Clarion remote wires to pull the new wire with. I'm assuming these will be secured along the way but I might give it a shot before going back into the mid-cabin.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts!

 

[RollerCoastr]

I just deleted my reply because I'm not sure I understood. You're talking about the factory stereo location to the dash, right?

 

[Stee6043]

I just deleted my reply because I'm not sure I understood. You're talking about the factory stereo location to the dash, right?

Yes, sir. I need to run a NMEA network cord from my plotters all the way up the starboard side to my Fusion head unit. I had read a thread here about removing the starboard side panel in the cubby of the mid-cabin (where the mirror is mounted). Removing that panel, while looking feasible, was becoming increasingly unpleasant. I was just curious if there is an easier way to fish a wire???

 

[RollerCoastr]

Hmm - I'm going to guess that they were trying to get wires to the mid-cabin itself. You don't need to go that far to get to the helm. Open the backs of the cabinets above the settee and you'll see where wires pass through a small opening to the stbd side of the elec panel. It will end up at floor-level between the starboard helm panel and the gunnel. Hopefully you have a subwoofer cutout to access the space between the helm and the gunnel in the cockpit?

It's not very hard to do. My challenge was that I ran an ethernet cable, a VGA cable, an RCA cable and and NMEA2000 cable, and by the time I got all that in there with the existing wires, it was a tight squeeze through that hole.

Worth it though. I can display the TV on the Garmins and the Garmins on the TV.

 

[RollerCoastr]

(the VGA I ran has that clunky 15-pin connector. These days I'd probably use an HDMI cable instead)

 

[Stee6043]

Hmm - I'm going to guess that they were trying to get wires to the mid-cabin itself. You don't need to go that far to get to the helm. Open the backs of the cabinets above the settee and you'll see where wires pass through a small opening to the stbd side of the elec panel. It will end up at floor-level between the starboard helm panel and the gunnel. Hopefully you have a subwoofer cutout to access the space between the helm and the gunnel in the cockpit?

It's not very hard to do. My challenge was that I ran an ethernet cable, a VGA cable, an RCA cable and and NMEA2000 cable, and by the time I got all that in there with the existing wires, it was a tight squeeze through that hole.

Worth it though. I can display the TV on the Garmins and the Garmins on the TV.

Ohh man....this is exactly what I was hoping for. Perhaps I misread the prior posts. I was hoping someone might say that I can make a run from those cabinets. Outstanding! Thank you!