410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

One of my boost plugs was a bitch to get out. I tried a big breaker bar and almost stripped it out. I ended up getting a punch and a big hammer, and hitting it at a low angle to break it loose. Took a couple good whacks! I was worried I’d have to drill it out this winter...but once lose, fame right out.

Thanks Dave. You thought yours was a 3/4-16 plug right? I have the adapter but it looks a little big, it might just be an illusion though. Figure I'd get it out first and see what size it is.
 
That is correct 3/4”-16
I managed to get the plugs out, the one in the middle moved. The ones closest to the front of the engine are way tighter for some reason.

my issue now is I can’t find that adapter to go from straight thread to compression. Do you happen to remember where you sourced it from?
 
I managed to get the plugs out, the one in the middle moved. The ones closest to the front of the engine are way tighter for some reason.

my issue now is I can’t find that adapter to go from straight thread to compression. Do you happen to remember where you sourced it from?

I have a 1/8"-27 0-30 pse sender installed. From what I remenber in this setup, somebody went from NPT to a barb fitting. Its only about 30 psi max.
 
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I have a 1/8"-27 0-30 pse sender installed. From what I remenber in this setup, somebody when from NPT to a barb fitting. Its only about 30 psi max.

thanks. I ended up just ordering the cat part from the local dealer it’ll be here tomorrow. With the time I spent driving around today I should have just done that to begin with. It’s a 3/4-16 to 1/4npt straight adapter. $20 for two of them
 
My helm has 2 switches for the windlass. "main" and "control". Both switches are on off on. Sprung Sprung to off. The "main" doesn't do anything. All I use to operate the windlass is the "control". How should it work? I also seem to have approximately 4 amp draw I can't account for. Could the "main" switch be foulty and constantly energizing a solenoid?
 
My helm has 2 switches for the windlass. "main" and "control". Both switches are on off on. Sprung Sprung to off. The "main" doesn't do anything. All I use to operate the windlass is the "control". How should it work? I also seem to have approximately 4 amp draw I can't account for. Could the "main" switch be foulty and constantly energizing a solenoid?

my main energizes the circuit at the bow then the control or forward foot pedals control the circuit. I just tested the main and it does not draw any current unless a control switch is activated
 
Ran today with our new gauges, they tell an interesting story and reinforce the need to get the props worked

the port side was 850* at 2300 rpm, starboard was ~950* at the same rpm. Boost was exactly the same on both engines, 16psi

the boat was running 23.5mph.

the starboard side is at all Rpms is consistently 50-100* higher egt (stack temp, post turbo) than the port side. That’s also the side that runs 80 rpm lower WOT. The previous owner had the cat dealer chasing the low WOT so I’m
Wondering if they tuned it to dump more fuel in to try and make up the difference.

Doesn’t change my offseason plan:

1) Pull props and have them scanned and worked to reach 2850 on the “high” engine
2) if after that work the egt is high and the wot on the starboard side is low I’ll have cat come out and check governor settings and such

I’m also having aftercoolers cleaned and tested but the boost seems fine
 
Interesting - Temps seem high and boost seems low. Remind me...are you getting any black smoke? I would swap temp senders side to side to eliminate gauge/instrument error. Also I would install a get of good pressure gauges directly on the intake manifold and verify your boost numbers. Unless I knew the turbocator was calibrated and accurate, I would verify before making a move.

If the boost is verified, I would start looking at the turbo/boost side of things first. The lack of boost may be a factor in the higher stack temps, as you should be to a point around 2400 rpm where there is a slight decrease in stack temp as you get more air in the cylinder. Cleaning the air filters and aftercooler would be first on my list...

Also what is the Max RPM no load (at the dock, not in gear)?
 
my main energizes the circuit at the bow then the control or forward foot pedals control the circuit. I just tested the main and it does not draw any current unless a control switch is activated
Interesting. Is your main a three position spring loaded switch?
 
Interesting - Temps seem high and boost seems low. Remind me...are you getting any black smoke? I would swap temp senders side to side to eliminate gauge/instrument error. Also I would install a get of good pressure gauges directly on the intake manifold and verify your boost numbers. Unless I knew the turbocator was calibrated and accurate, I would verify before making a move.

If the boost is verified, I would start looking at the turbo/boost side of things first. The lack of boost may be a factor in the higher stack temps, as you should be to a point around 2400 rpm where there is a slight decrease in stack temp as you get more air in the cylinder. Cleaning the air filters and aftercooler would be first on my list...

Also what is the Max RPM no load (at the dock, not in gear)?

no smoke at all. New racors, new secondary filters. The air filters are freshly cleaned and oiled with the airsep kit. I replaced the breathers as well.

I haven’t done the no load test at the dock. CAT did and reported to spec, but I should really do it myself. They make a lot of noise at 2k rpm so I chickened out to push them further. I need to just do it, nothing more than just get them warmed up and spin to WOT, right?
 
Ryan, as I recall, there should be a data tag on each engine showing its exact no load WOT RPM that the engine demonstrated on the dyno...
Ryan, as I recall, there should be a data tag on each engine showing its exact no load WOT RPM that the engine demonstrated on the dyno...

They do - 3130/3129 - I'm just scared to actually push the throttle to the stop while in the slip. There's no good reason why I don't want to do it, it just seems nerveracking :)
 
Has anyone replaced the cutlass bearings? Mine were noted as "medium wear" on the survey but I might just have them done (or attempt myself) this winter so I now they're new.

Wondering what size I should be shopping for. The boat will be in the water for a couple more weeks so i can't measure.
 
My helm has 2 switches for the windlass. "main" and "control". Both switches are on off on. Sprung Sprung to off. The "main" doesn't do anything. All I use to operate the windlass is the "control". How should it work? I also seem to have approximately 4 amp draw I can't account for. Could the "main" switch be foulty and constantly energizing a solenoid?

There's a beefy solenoid behind your battery switches that's triggered by the "main" on/off. They are both momentary on my boat as well.

And yes, the main could be faulty. I know this because mine is also bad. The solenoid on my boat is always energized but it does not draw current. It's on my list of things to fix but it's not made it to top 5 items yet. Maybe this winter! :)
 
Interesting. Is your main a three position spring loaded switch?
The windlass main turns on and off the solenoid switch which provides battery power to the unit. The solenoid is a latching solenoid in that when positive polarity is applied to the solenoid it latches on and when negative polarity applied it latches off. Once the solenoid latches and you release the switch there is no current being applied. So press the main switch up then release and the solenoid latches on then press the main switch down then release and the solenoid latches off. I believe the solenoid is manufactured by Intellitec and are their Big Boy series.
 
Can somebody confirm what Cat paint color I need to touch up some stuff on my engines? I just got off the phone with Cat parts and they aren't 100% sure if it is Matterhorn White or Power Module White.

Or do you have a different idea of what to use? The aerosol cans are only about $10 each. Same question for my westerbeke genset, what are yall using?, the $40 westerbeke rattle can or something else?
 
Carter had this info in his 410 file for the 3126's I would think the 3116's are the same?

Paint Codes
CAT – Use "Matterhorn White" Cat Part No. 140-2576

Or Nissan Paris White KH5- Nissan Paris White- 1989 Nissan Axxess


Westerbeke Paint 1959 Ford Torch Red MO175
 
Carter had this info in his 410 file for the 3126's I would think the 3116's are the same?

Paint Codes
CAT – Use "Matterhorn White" Cat Part No. 140-2576

Or Nissan Paris White KH5- Nissan Paris White- 1989 Nissan Axxess


Westerbeke Paint 1959 Ford Torch Red MO175
Thank you!
 

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