410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

Looking at that install manual, depending on where you are, AC size could differ by 50%, so in Michigan, a 7k unit would be spec's, in southern FL a 12k. Same could be done in reverse if you bought a boat out of south FL and moved it to MI.
 
Not wishing the last few weeks away (October 11 haul) but coming to the end of a really great first season with our boat. About 100 hours, just over 1000 gallons of fuel burned. Couldn’t travel internationally because of covid so looking forward to that next year.

It’s such a great boat, I’m still thrilled everytime we take it out.

got a few things planned this winter:
Wood floor in cabin
DC power posts in transom so I can hook pumps up without lifting engine hatch
Mount TV to arch
Trim tabs over prop tunnels
Rewire outdoor speakers to be on their own channel on my new amp
Wire indoor speakers to go to zone 1 on fusion
CO detector replace

How’s everyone else’s season gone? Any winter upgrades?
*We are looking at having wood flooring installed also but haven’t found anyone to give a quote, any recommendations?
*Going to replace the original navigation lights
*boat was new to us a month ago so I will be doing a full detail in and out
*new windshield and hatch gasket/rubber
 
Hello everyone. Wanted to introduce myself. I just stepped up from a 290 to a 400DA with twin diesels. Our maiden voyage was repositioning her from Midland ON to Keswick ON along the Trent-Severn waterway. It took us 8 hrs total yesterday. Love the boat, ran 8hrs on a 1/4 tank of fuel just wow! Previous owner had it 16 years and was very meticulous. Going to be so much more comfortable for our family of 4. Here’s some pics. View attachment 112082View attachment 112083View attachment 112084View attachment 112085View attachment 112087View attachment 112088View attachment 112089View attachment 112090
Where in Keswick are you keeping her? We use to have ours in Lefroy before we got transferred back to Detroit.
 
Installed a homemade arid bilge system in front and rear engine room bilge a few days ago and happy to report that it works great so far. This link was on club sea ray awhile back:

https://lifeempirically.com/2018/03/12/build-your-own-diy-arid-bilge-or-dry-bilge-system/

Didn't have any major water intrusion issues, just thought it would be easier to keep bilge clean and chase fluid leaks if they crop up. Couldn't get one pump to work for both bilges no matter what size tubing I used. Added a second pump on same timer and that solved it. The pumps are quite loud if laying in the small aft cabin, so, I the set timer accordingly, no pumping during normal sleep hours.
 

Attachments

  • 1.png
    1.png
    492.8 KB · Views: 114
  • 2.png
    2.png
    421.3 KB · Views: 113
  • 3.png
    3.png
    437.3 KB · Views: 110
  • 4.png
    4.png
    415.7 KB · Views: 111
Installed a homemade arid bilge system in front and rear engine room bilge a few days ago and happy to report that it works great so far. This link was on club sea ray awhile back:

https://lifeempirically.com/2018/03/12/build-your-own-diy-arid-bilge-or-dry-bilge-system/

Didn't have any major water intrusion issues, just thought it would be easier to keep bilge clean and chase fluid leaks if they crop up. Couldn't get one pump to work for both bilges no matter what size tubing I used. Added a second pump on same timer and that solved it. The pumps are quite loud if laying in the small aft cabin, so, I the set timer accordingly, no pumping during normal sleep hours.

Nice install!!

My bilge is dry except if I'm spill something and I need to clean up, so I wonder if I could add a small water witch switch to only activate when water present.
 
Another project if interested.

Wasn't a big fan of drinking the water out of the tank, even with a filter. Installed a Weco Tiny reverse osmosis system 2 years ago. It's been great, no more hauling gallons of bottled water. (we live on the boat during the summer) Didn't want to take up real estate under the galley sink so installed under the dinette seats - tapped into the cold H20 that feeds anchor locker. Plenty of room for a 2 gallon storage tank. Removed the useless sink sprayer and installed a dedicated RO tap. Could not find a brushed nickel RO faucet to match the main faucet so I went with black.
 

Attachments

  • ro3.jpg
    ro3.jpg
    59.4 KB · Views: 118
  • ro2.jpg
    ro2.jpg
    70.9 KB · Views: 115
  • ro 1.jpg
    ro 1.jpg
    62.3 KB · Views: 118
Another project if interested.

Wasn't a big fan of drinking the water out of the tank, even with a filter. Installed a Weco Tiny reverse osmosis system 2 years ago. It's been great, no more hauling gallons of bottled water. (we live on the boat during the summer) Didn't want to take up real estate under the galley sink so installed under the dinette seats - tapped into the cold H20 that feeds anchor locker. Plenty of room for a 2 gallon storage tank. Removed the useless sink sprayer and installed a dedicated RO tap. Could not find a brushed nickel RO faucet to match the main faucet so I went with black.
That’s cool… I like that little project. I think I am going to order one of those. Very affordable.
 
Installed a homemade arid bilge system in front and rear engine room bilge a few days ago and happy to report that it works great so far. This link was on club sea ray awhile back:

https://lifeempirically.com/2018/03/12/build-your-own-diy-arid-bilge-or-dry-bilge-system/

Didn't have any major water intrusion issues, just thought it would be easier to keep bilge clean and chase fluid leaks if they crop up. Couldn't get one pump to work for both bilges no matter what size tubing I used. Added a second pump on same timer and that solved it. The pumps are quite loud if laying in the small aft cabin, so, I the set timer accordingly, no pumping during normal sleep hours.

This is cool. Officially added to my winter to-do list! Thanks for sharing that link...very cool.

Did you plumb the output to one of your existing bilge hoses or do something else with it?
 
This is cool. Officially added to my winter to-do list! Thanks for sharing that link...very cool.

Did you plumb the output to one of your existing bilge hoses or do something else with it?

For now, the vinyl drain tube is laying in the drain channel underneath the piece of cockpit floor panel that provides more generator access. There's a 90 elbow on it and it drains into the cockpit drain. Can't see it unless the panel is removed. If I can find the parts this winter, I'm going it to tie into the drain discharge hose directly.
 
Opened the salon hatch yesterday to find 10 gallons of shower water sitting in there. What a pain - I replaced both sumps last year with the new style Rule boxes and the design sucks. The pump isn’t screwed into the box, there a molded little tab in the bottom that’s supposed to hold it it in place. Instead, it came loose and was only pumping a little water overboard letting the rest spill out

I keep an eye on the sump light to make sure it goes on and off while showering but my 3 year old doesn’t so it must have just overflowed for 10 minutes.
 
Last night I was doing my annual oil change on my 3126's and when my shoulder touched the starboard engine alternator I noticed it was warm. I haven't run the boat for 4 days and the port engine alternator is cool to the touch. I assume something is failing in the alternator. Has anyone else experienced similar or have any suggestions what I can look for? I'm sure I could swap the alternator and cure the issue, just wondered what the root cause is.
 
Opened the salon hatch yesterday to find 10 gallons of shower water sitting in there. What a pain - I replaced both sumps last year with the new style Rule boxes and the design sucks. The pump isn’t screwed into the box, there a molded little tab in the bottom that’s supposed to hold it it in place. Instead, it came loose and was only pumping a little water overboard letting the rest spill out

I keep an eye on the sump light to make sure it goes on and off while showering but my 3 year old doesn’t so it must have just overflowed for 10 minutes.
I had the overflow issue last week. Is was only about a quart (not 10 gallons) but still water where it shouldn't be. I only knew because I heard a different pump sound and checked it out.

I still have the old style floats, but they get gunked up with soap so they don't activate properly. A good cleaning and all is well. I don't know whether you have the ability to clean those as well, but a cleaning might be a first step.
 
Last night I was doing my annual oil change on my 3126's and when my shoulder touched the starboard engine alternator I noticed it was warm. I haven't run the boat for 4 days and the port engine alternator is cool to the touch. I assume something is failing in the alternator. Has anyone else experienced similar or have any suggestions what I can look for? I'm sure I could swap the alternator and cure the issue, just wondered what the root cause is.
Typical when the rectifier diodes start failing or the voltage regulator isn't shutting off and the field coil is staying on.
Best to replace the alternator.
 
Typical when the rectifier diodes start failing or the voltage regulator isn't shutting off and the field coil is staying on.
Best to replace the alternator.
Can't these alternators be rebuilt? Btw what does a new one run?
 
Can't these alternators be rebuilt? Btw what does a new one run?
They can but usually less expensive to buy another. I had forgot to mention there is a simple test to determine if the diodes have crapped the bed - Using your digital volt meter set it to read AC voltage. Start the engine and set the RPM to 1500. Load down the DC circuits by turning on as many DC devices as you can. Then measure the voltage between the alternator BAT post and ground. You are measuring the DC ripple which is actually AC voltage. That measurement should be less than 0.10 Volts. If greater the diode rectifier is going south....
 

Forum statistics

Threads
112,948
Messages
1,422,804
Members
60,930
Latest member
Ebrown69
Back
Top