410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

Thanks for all of the info guys. So far I'm leaning towards the 28" (to completely cover the hole) on a fixed mount (so I don't have to worry about it banging around when the boat is moving.
Now I just have to figure out the right 28" TV. I'd like to get one that has the HDMI inputs on the side so I can easily connect my iPad to it, and I'd also like to get one with built in Netflix, Amazon Prime, or Roku so I can take advantage of those things when I'm in a place with wifi.
 
John, when I bought my boat in December, it had all the old tube tv's removed and was looking at the same thing you are. I ended up buying one each 24" Roku Insignia TV for the master and a 28" Samsung smart TV for above the fridge. They are both 720p which I would have preferred at least 1080p but on the boat wasn't too concerned. Samsung TV is really nice and fits perfectly in the space. The user interface is complicated to my crew, but I like it. Roku TV has great picture, and I like everything about it. Easy to use and simple to get it to do what I want. Both connect easily to my hotspot wherever we are. Samsung does have a remote eye extender that helps pass the control signal to my directv receiver and a better remote. Not sure if that is something you want to consider. Tip- if you have a satellite receiver, make sure you bypass the splitters and connect straight to the cable/sat inlet in the trunk. I am going to buy another 24" Roku tv to keep in the mid-berth as well as to use on deck behind the captains seat. It was a pain in the ass to run HDMI's and an RCA for audio to the head unit, but well worth it.
 
Cocktail Time said:
John, when I bought my boat in December, it had all the old tube tv's removed and was looking at the same thing you are. I ended up buying one each 24" Roku Insignia TV for the master and a 28" Samsung smart TV for above the fridge. They are both 720p which I would have preferred at least 1080p but on the boat wasn't too concerned. Samsung TV is really nice and fits perfectly in the space. The user interface is complicated to my crew, but I like it. Roku TV has great picture, and I like everything about it. Easy to use and simple to get it to do what I want. Both connect easily to my hotspot wherever we are. Samsung does have a remote eye extender that helps pass the control signal to my directv receiver and a better remote. Not sure if that is something you want to consider. Tip- if you have a satellite receiver, make sure you bypass the splitters and connect straight to the cable/sat inlet in the trunk. I am going to buy another 24" Roku tv to keep in the mid-berth as well as to use on deck behind the captains seat. It was a pain in the ass to run HDMI's and an RCA for audio to the head unit, but well worth it.
Click to expand...
Thanks! Just looked up the specs for the 28" Samsung and it looks like at 25.3" x 15.6" without the stand it is going to be a tight fit. Do you remember what mount you used to make it work?
 
JVM225 said:
Thanks! Just looked up the specs for the 28" Samsung and it looks like at 25.3" x 15.6" without the stand it is going to be a tight fit. Do you remember what mount you used to make it work?
Click to expand...
I used this one from monoprice.com https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=8099&seq=1&format=2

It isn't as flush as I would like but I have that big opening behind it where the old tv was above the fridge. I would recommend 90 degree adapters for the hdmi and aux cords and use one of their flush mounts if you are putting it on the wall in the master. They have great prices on the mounts and cables.
 
Thanks Dan! Just checked the space over the salon fridge again with a piece of cardboard that I cut to the same size as the 28" Samsung and I'm not going to be able to use it. Height is good, but I don't have the width.
There might be some slight differences in the way our two boats are trimmed out that gives you a hair more room.
Probably just stick with a 24" in the salon for now and focus the efforts on replacing the old 13" TV/VCR up in the master.
 
We removed old TV and cut a piece of thin plywood about an inch larger than the cutout. Then cover it with vinyl that matched the other trim in the V berth. Then screwed the panel to the wall. Then mounted the TV to the panel. Cant even see the panel behind the TV.
 
I replaced the original TV/VCR combos in both the salon and master stateroom with this TV/DVD combo when I bought the boat in 2012:
http://www.rcamobiledigitaltv.com/products/small-televisions/18-5-led-tvdvd-combo/
The 22" may seem small but it works well for me especially in the stateroom since it is viewed from such a close distance. Both units have worked great for the last six seasons using both cable and air reception and my six year old son has enjoyed the DVD player.
 
JVM225 said:
Thanks! Just looked up the specs for the 28" Samsung and it looks like at 25.3" x 15.6" without the stand it is going to be a tight fit. Do you remember what mount you used to make it work?
Click to expand...
I am pretty sure mine is the 28" Samsung. Tight fit but feels much bigger than the 26". Glad we updated it.
 
I have a 2000 410EC and having a fresh water leak. Cannot find any water in the cabin or bilge. It must be coming from the fittings off the fresh water tank. The tank itself does not leak until I turn on the pressure water system. Anyone know how to get at these fittings? In two days I lost almost a full tank of water and no traces. Bilges dry...stringer systems..dry. WTH?
 
TIDALWAVE said:
I have a 2000 410EC and having a fresh water leak. Cannot find any water in the cabin or bilge. It must be coming from the fittings off the fresh water tank. The tank itself does not leak until I turn on the pressure water system. Anyone know how to get at these fittings? In two days I lost almost a full tank of water and no traces. Bilges dry...stringer systems..dry. WTH?
Click to expand...

Check your transom shower. Could be left slightly on and going overboard. The other place you can loose water without it going into the bilge is the shower in the head leaking into the sump and going overboard.
 
Thank you for the response. Have checked the transom shower, the shower in the head, the water heater pressure relief valve. Did not think about the transom locker spigot goog idea. Did not know about a anchor locker spigot. Just bought the boat a couple of weeks age.
 
hmm. My first bet would've been the pressure relief valve, but the anchor locker is likely culprit. The drains are low on the hull under the bow, so hundreds of gallons can cycle through there without being noticed.
 
Unfortunately.....this boat does not have a anchor locker spigot. I'll be checking the relief valve again.
Amazing...after boating for all these years never had a problem so perplexing. Thanks for your response.
 
Am so embarrassed .... checked the pressure relief valve again, sure enough. Can't believe I missed it the first time around. Indefinably a silent leaker...no pump just truckles out. Sure Enough!
Thank you!
 
I just brought home my new to me 1998 400 Express. Picked it up about 140 NM from home and cruised in yesterday. The whole family absolutely loves it and I especially love the diesels.

I backed into the slip at out marina and found my first major issue. When I plug into shore power I trip the whole dock. In a closer inspection of the cords and the inlet receptacle on the boat, they've arched many times. The cords are trash. A fellow dock mate let me borrow a good cord and I still trip the whole dock when I flip on Line 1. The inlet is scorched and I assume the wiring is grounding out in the back. Everything works great on the generator.

So here's my issue. Any one every replace one of these inlets? I expected them to be screwed to the hull, but unfortunately they appear to be bolted and I cannot find ANY access to the back of them. How in the world do you access the back to hold the nuts? The best course of action that I see is to open the access door next to the right knee of the driver and cut a hole in the interior knee wall (and hope I can get to it).

Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 
I have not on a 400EC, but have on several other models. The shore power inlet is thru bolted to the side of the boat. Sea Ray usually provides access becauee they have to install the recepticle and wiring. You may need to pop off the upper vinyl covered part of the side wall or even remove it and the shelf behind it, but there will be some way to access it without sawing up the boat.

In the late 90's, there were some problems with the power wires not being properly stripped or the wire was inserted too far into the lug crimped on the end causing the terminal to be partially crimped on the insulation. If that is the case, it increases the resistance and causes the shore power plug and the receptacle to get very hot....and you see the end result. At least the boat hasn't caught fire. No matter what caused the problem, the repair is to replace the Marinco receptacle and the shore power cord. I just hope there is enough slack in the cabeling between the inlet receptacle and the main panel breaker to allow you to cut back the burned and damaged end to expose good wire behind the inlet receptacle.
 
Thanks Frank. I assume you're talking about removing some the vinyl sidewall inside the boat. I took at look at that very briefly but it looked like I'd have to remove cabinets and more. And even then it didn't look like I might have decent access to where the inlets are. That little knee wall is about 4 inches from the inlets. I can't believe they didn't put an access panel in it.

And I agree about the slack. I hope there is some - once I figure out how to get there.
 
The seats should also be fairly easy to remove and slide back or out of the way. Depending upon the year, they may even have pins securing them in place or they may be screwed down.
 
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