410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

[JVM225]

Make sure you inspect the wires behind the receptacle closely and cut back to where they are clean and not black. You may find that once you cut back to the clean part they are too short to make it to the new receptacle and you may have to just run new wire from the receptacles to the panel.

 

[TitanTn]

Make sure you inspect the wires behind the receptacle closely and cut back to where they are clean and not black. You may find that once you cut back to the clean part they are too short to make it to the new receptacle and you may have to just run new wire from the receptacles to the panel.

I would love to if I can figure how how to get back there.

 

[h_gerry]

On my 400EC, the shore power inlets can be accessed from behind the electrical panel in the salon. Take the screws out of the edge of the panel and open it on the hinges. When you open the breaker panel if you look up into the space towards the cabin side, you can see the back of the inlets. It is a deep back there but you can just about reach them.

 

[TitanTn]

On my 400EC, the shore power inlets can be accessed from behind the electrical panel in the salon. Take the screws out of the edge of the panel and open it on the hinges. When you open the breaker panel if you look up into the space towards the cabin side, you can see the back of the inlets. It is a deep back there but you can just about reach them.

Awesome! Thanks for the tip (this information is almost as good as gold!). I hope to have some time tomorrow afternoon to attempt it.

 

[h_gerry]

Awesome! Thanks for the tip (this information is almost as good as gold!). I hope to have some time tomorrow afternoon to attempt it.

While you have the panel open, you can also check the connections between the inlets and the main breakers and the breakers themselves, just in case the issue is there.

 

[TitanTn]

Well, thanks to h_gerry! That's exactly how you access the power inlets. I got them out but didn't install the new ones because I was getting eaten alive by mosquitos. And Frank was correct in that one of the wires was crimped on the insulation. I suspect that it was adding some resistance. The wires from the inlet to the panel look real good. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get everything put back together, new ends on the shore power cables, and be up and running. Thanks for all of the help.

 

[h_gerry]

Well, thanks to h_gerry! That's exactly how you access the power inlets. I got them out but didn't install the new ones because I was getting eaten alive by mosquitos. And Frank was correct in that one of the wires was crimped on the insulation. I suspect that it was adding some resistance. The wires from the inlet to the panel look real good. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get everything put back together, new ends on the shore power cables, and be up and running. Thanks for all of the help.

Happy to hear you got them out and are on the way to getting it remedied.

 

[TIDALWAVE]

Can anyone tell me what the hydraulic ram capacity is on a 410EC?

 

[pcarp]

Hello,
Long time reader here, first time participant in the forum. We just moved up to a 2000 410 this August from a 2003 340.
I really appreciate all the info that gets shared here, hope that maybe someone can help me out?
My cabin Norco refrigerator works fine on shore power. When I unhook from shore power the green LED light stays lit on the display panel, the interior lights also work fine. However, the unit stops cooling until either the generator is started or I hook up the shore power again. Is this the way it is supposed to function?

 

[Alegria]

Hello,
Long time reader here, first time participant in the forum. We just moved up to a 2000 410 this August from a 2003 340.
I really appreciate all the info that gets shared here, hope that maybe someone can help me out?
My cabin Norco refrigerator works fine on shore power. When I unhook from shore power the green LED light stays lit on the display panel, the interior lights also work fine. However, the unit stops cooling until either the generator is started or I hook up the shore power again. Is this the way it is supposed to function?

Odd. Make sure the breaker is on the 12V panel is on for the refrig. that turns on the 12V to the frig and once the AC is lost (either from hitting the breaker or unplugging shore power) it should switch over. If the green light is on, then it has power (either AC or DC). If your sure you have AC off and DC on for the frig, then could be a failing battery not providing enough voltage to run the compressor...

Not sure if there are two compressors one AC and one DC. If there is, then I would suspect the DC compressor is not running...

Found this interesting site http://thenorcoldguy.com Might be helpful

 

[carterchapman]

There is a power supply that converts the 120 AC to 12V DC - not two compressors. My Norcold on my 410 lost the power supply, so it would only work on 12V - BUT the green light was on with AC (which didn't work) and DC...It completely failed three months after the new owner bought her...so it lasted 14 years...

 

[Alegria]

There is a power supply that converts the 120 AC to 12V DC - not two compressors. My Norcold on my 410 lost the power supply, so it would only work on 12V - BUT the green light was on with AC (which didn't work) and DC...It completely failed three months after the new owner bought her...so it lasted 14 years...

DOH... That makes so much sense. I don't know where my brain was when I replied.. LOL

But the OP works on AC not getting cold on DC, so that sounds like that power supply is OK. Hmmm might be batteries? Still odd that it's basically a 12V fridge with a converter for use on AC.

How does it switch between AC and DC, that might be the issue if there is a relay or switching circuit. I know on mine when I hit the AC on the DC panel amp meter drops immediately.

 

[carterchapman]

I have been told the power supply is a weak link, so running on AC and not on DC is new to me - sorry...

I assume it makes AC the priority when it is available if both switches are on...

 

[ttmott]

Here is how I understand how the Norcold refer power supply works and the schematic for the electrical seems to support it:
The 120 VAC has a transformer that reduces the voltage to 23 VAC.
The 12 VDC side has an inverter that bumps and inverts to 23 VAC.
There is a two pole relay that when 120 VAC is available it pulls in and the refer is powered from the 120 VAC side. When 120 VAC is lost the relay drops out and the unit is powered from the 12 VDC side.
The compressor requires alternating current which operates on 23 VAC.
So, most likely that relay that is energized most of it's life probably finally gave out.
These refers are used extensively in the RV world so it would be cheapest go get one aftermarket there.

 

[SkipH]

Has anyone tried pulling wire or cables from the engine room to the helm console on a 1999 400DA? I'm installing a new transducer and have found that there seems to be very limited access to the cable runs above the cockpit floor. I spent all day today trying to find a way. The only answer I can even begin to think will work is to cut in a new pie access hole under the bench seat in the side coming just aft of where the existing cabling penetrates the cockpit sole. I've tried pushing snakes and also found an empty raceway tube Sea Ray had installed when the boat was built but then discovered that when installed they tightened the tie raps so tight the tube completely collapsed.

Thanks
Skip

 

[ttmott]

Has anyone tried pulling wire or cables from the engine room to the helm console on a 1999 400DA? I'm installing a new transducer and have found that there seems to be very limited access to the cable runs above the cockpit floor. I spent all day today trying to find a way. The only answer I can even begin to think will work is to cut in a new pie access hole under the bench seat in the side coming just aft of where the existing cabling penetrates the cockpit sole. I've tried pushing snakes and also found an empty raceway tube Sea Ray had installed when the boat was built but then discovered that when installed they tightened the tie raps so tight the tube completely collapsed.

Thanks
Skip

O Yea several times. In the aft stateroom remove the two lights in that little cubby on the starboard side and the 120V receptacle; don't disconnect the wires. Carefully pull the corners of the vinyl back from that mirrored panel in the back of that cubby to access the screws and remove that mirror and board. Then unscrew and remove the board behind it. The only way to work that mirrored board out is to have those lights and outlet loose and out of the way. Then remove the fuel tank sender access panel which is that removable section on the bottom of that little cubby. Ok now you can see all of the wire harnesses that run between the solon, engine room, and helm. Run your wires from engine room across the top of the fuel tank then up into the area where all of the harnesses are then right up to the helm from there. It's a pain to get the access but easy to route wires once opened up.

 

[pcarp]

DOH... That makes so much sense. I don't know where my brain was when I replied.. LOL

But the OP works on AC not getting cold on DC, so that sounds like that power supply is OK. Hmmm might be batteries? Still odd that it's basically a 12V fridge with a converter for use on AC.

How does it switch between AC and DC, that might be the issue if there is a relay or switching circuit. I know on mine when I hit the AC on the DC panel amp meter drops immediately.

Thanks for the reply. I replaced all of the batteries in August so I think we can rule that out?

 

[pcarp]

Here is how I understand how the Norcold refer power supply works and the schematic for the electrical seems to support it:
The 120 VAC has a transformer that reduces the voltage to 23 VAC.
The 12 VDC side has an inverter that bumps and inverts to 23 VAC.
There is a two pole relay that when 120 VAC is available it pulls in and the refer is powered from the 120 VAC side. When 120 VAC is lost the relay drops out and the unit is powered from the 12 VDC side.
The compressor requires alternating current which operates on 23 VAC.
So, most likely that relay that is energized most of it's life probably finally gave out.
These refers are used extensively in the RV world so it would be cheapest go get one aftermarket there.

Thank you for the reply, that is some great information. I am going to attack the power supply while the boat is in storage this winter. I hope I can find a component to replace versus the whole power supply, looks like that power supply is about $600.

 

[SkipH]

O Yea several times. In the aft stateroom remove the two lights in that little cubby on the starboard side and the 120V receptacle; don't disconnect the wires. Carefully pull the corners of the vinyl back from that mirrored panel in the back of that cubby to access the screws and remove that mirror and board. Then unscrew and remove the board behind it. The only way to work that mirrored board out is to have those lights and outlet loose and out of the way. Then remove the fuel tank sender access panel which is that removable section on the bottom of that little cubby. Ok now you can see all of the wire harnesses that run between the solon, engine room, and helm. Run your wires from engine room across the top of the fuel tank then up into the area where all of the harnesses are then right up to the helm from there. It's a pain to get the access but easy to route wires once opened up.
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Thank you so much for the quick and detailed instructions. I'll give it a go this afternoon. I'll let you know how it goes, and Thanks!

 

[h_gerry]

Thank you for the reply, that is some great information. I am going to attack the power supply while the boat is in storage this winter. I hope I can find a component to replace versus the whole power supply, looks like that power supply is about $600.

I had the same issue with my Norcold. It would run on 120v but not work on 12v. I checked the power lines coming to the fridge and was getting readings of 12v so I presumed it was an issue with the power supply. When the fridge gave out I replaced it with a new Norcold and had the exact same issue. The new fridge would not run on 12v. Tracing the 12v power lines I discovered that the connection at the breaker was loose. It would show 12v but as soon as any amperage was needed the voltage would drop out because of the loose connection. I tightened the connection and the fridge ran on 12v. So, check the connections and check the integrity of the breaker. Ya never know......