410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

[pcarp]

I had the same issue with my Norcold. It would run on 120v but not work on 12v. I checked the power lines coming to the fridge and was getting readings of 12v so I presumed it was an issue with the power supply. When the fridge gave out I replaced it with a new Norcold and had the exact same issue. The new fridge would not run on 12v. Tracing the 12v power lines I discovered that the connection at the breaker was loose. It would show 12v but as soon as any amperage was needed the voltage would drop out because of the loose connection. I tightened the connection and the fridge ran on 12v. So, check the connections and check the integrity of the breaker. Ya never know......

That must have been very frustrating! I will check into the power lines and connections as well. Thank you for the input.

 

[pcarp]

I have another project I would like to tackle this winter related to the stereo system. I installed a new head unit and replaced the amp under the couch (the amp feeds the cockpit speakers and sub), both were bad. I noticed that only one set of pre amp outputs were run to that amp. I would like to pull two more pre amp cables down to that amp so that I could have front, rear and sub woofer feeds. I would also add another amp to serve the sub. Has anyone found a way to pull the additional pre amp feeds down to the amp location?
Thanks
Pat

 

[h_gerry]

That must have been very frustrating! I will check into the power lines and connections as well. Thank you for the input.

Very!! Not until I was checking the voltage with a load did I find out something was amiss with the power line.

 

[carterchapman]

Here is how I understand how the Norcold refer power supply works and the schematic for the electrical seems to support it:
The 120 VAC has a transformer that reduces the voltage to 23 VAC.
The 12 VDC side has an inverter that bumps and inverts to 23 VAC.
There is a two pole relay that when 120 VAC is available it pulls in and the refer is powered from the 120 VAC side. When 120 VAC is lost the relay drops out and the unit is powered from the 12 VDC side.
The compressor requires alternating current which operates on 23 VAC.
So, most likely that relay that is energized most of it's life probably finally gave out.
These refers are used extensively in the RV world so it would be cheapest go get one aftermarket there.

No wonder why I hated EE in college!!! Good explanation Tom - thanks.

 

[Z-Worthy]

Thank you so much for the quick and detailed instructions. I'll give it a go this afternoon. I'll let you know how it goes, and Thanks!

Skip, I've done it as well. My only suggestion to add is to make sure you run two wires; the one that you want to run and another to leave behind as a fish wire!! Every time I have to disassemble cabin parts and pieces, I always try to leave a reminder of some sort to make sure I leave behind a nice thick piece of something and label it as a fish wire. It'll save you (or the next owner) a lot of hassle in the future. Luckily I have nicely labeled fish wires running all over the place in my boat. The next guy owes me!

 

[JVM225]

Does anyone have a resource for the black trim that fits in the channel on the outside of the windshield, or know what it’s called?
Just noticed a small end piece that was there yesterday is now missing.

 

[TNT8808]

Does anyone have a resource for the black trim that fits in the channel on the outside of the windshield, or know what it’s called?
Just noticed a small end piece that was there yesterday is now missing.

I replaced mine all the way around a few years ago. Here's what I found:

Part Number...: 1424373 W/S, VINYL SCREW COVER TAPE
Supplier #....: 6425 TAYLOR MADE SYSTEMS NEW YORK
Supplier Part#: 6635900 TAYLOR'S PART NUMBER

-Tom

 

[JVM225]

Thanks Tom. Do you remember who you got it from?

 

[Dono10]

My search for a 97-99 370 express has not been very successful. Hell why not just get the 410 express? Trying to get as much info on this model as possible. Any input would be appreciated. I've noticed some have cats and some have cummins. What determined which power was put in? Is one perferred over the other. What about horsepower differences between the cats and cummins. A gasser would suite our needs but I'm thinking a boat this size needs diesel. Anyone with a gasser care to chime in regarding performance and if your happy with the gas power.

 

[TNT8808]

Thanks Tom. Do you remember who you got it from?

I looked around a bit, and ended up just ordering it from our local Sea Ray dealer. I don't remember how many feet it was, but I remember it was under $300. You buy by the foot. By the way, it's best to do it when it's HOT outside and don't forget to go all the way into those recesses on the ends. They're about an inch deep, and It'll eventually shrink. I also removed, and rebedded every screw while I was at it.

-Tom

 

[ttmott]

I replaced mine all the way around a few years ago. Here's what I found:

Part Number...: 1424373 W/S, VINYL SCREW COVER TAPE
Supplier #....: 6425 TAYLOR MADE SYSTEMS NEW YORK
Supplier Part#: 6635900 TAYLOR'S PART NUMBER

-Tom

FYI that material is EPDM closed cell foam rubber. This is the same material except with an adhesive back and orders of magnitude cheaper https://www.mcmaster.com/#rubber/=19w4hqa. I used this on my 400DA windshield; installed three years ago and still looks (and is) OEM. Wet the material with a soap and water solution and the adhesive will not stick to anything during installation. Make sure to cut long and compress into the groove as all foam rubber products will shrink over time.

 

[peterkvs]

O Yea several times. In the aft stateroom remove the two lights in that little cubby on the starboard side and the 120V receptacle; don't disconnect the wires. Carefully pull the corners of the vinyl back from that mirrored panel in the back of that cubby to access the screws and remove that mirror and board. Then unscrew and remove the board behind it. The only way to work that mirrored board out is to have those lights and outlet loose and out of the way. Then remove the fuel tank sender access panel which is that removable section on the bottom of that little cubby. Ok now you can see all of the wire harnesses that run between the solon, engine room, and helm. Run your wires from engine room across the top of the fuel tank then up into the area where all of the harnesses are then right up to the helm from there. It's a pain to get the access but easy to route wires once opened up.
View attachment 51242 View attachment 51243 View attachment 51244

This is great info to have!

 

[Alegria]

I replaced mine all the way around a few years ago. Here's what I found:

Part Number...: 1424373 W/S, VINYL SCREW COVER TAPE
Supplier #....: 6425 TAYLOR MADE SYSTEMS NEW YORK
Supplier Part#: 6635900 TAYLOR'S PART NUMBER

-Tom

I believe that flounder pounder/sea ray parts now carries this as well. I purchased mine years ago directly from Taylor Made, but they no longer will sell direct to Sea Ray owners I've heard. Plus they had a flat $25 shipping and handling charge, just like sea ray parts...

Just throwing that out there.

 

[Alegria]

My search for a 97-99 370 express has not been very successful. Hell why not just get the 410 express? Trying to get as much info on this model as possible. Any input would be appreciated. I've noticed some have cats and some have cummins. What determined which power was put in? Is one perferred over the other. What about horsepower differences between the cats and cummins. A gasser would suite our needs but I'm thinking a boat this size needs diesel. Anyone with a gasser care to chime in regarding performance and if your happy with the gas power.

Exactly!! Good thinking. I believe the transitional years from CAT to Cummins was around 2001ish.. I believe Sea Ray moved away from CAT based on their issues with the 3196 engines and I'm sure other reasons around support. I suspect that cost Sea Ray some money fixing those issues with owners of new yachts. But overall the 3116/3126 you will find in the express are pretty solid engines as far as service life goes.

The Cummins will be the mechanical version which is a good engine as well. I don't know much around them others I am sure can chime in once you have a boat in your sights. I know the Cummins gang swears by Tony Athens at SB Marine he is a demi god of Cummins engines. Google his name and you will find plenty of info.

The express should ride a bit more bow down since the engines are farther forward since you will lose the aft cabin. Also the engine room is huge and looks like access is great to most anything you need to get to. Honestly I can't complain around access on my sundancer, other then getting to the holding tank filter, everything else is pretty good!

Based on our usage and family size I did not look too hard at the express as I knew I wanted to stay in the sundancer style. I did not feel the mid cabin bunk arrangement on the express suited us. It might work just fine for you! I can say that the aft cabin is a bit tight for an adult couple, not un-usable at all, just well they better like one another. The salon converts to a surprisingly large berth on par with the aft cabin in width and much longer. Our boat has the pullman berth in the aft cabin which is good for when the kids have friends down.

As far as gas vs. diesel, I'm not going to go there.. LOL. Plenty of info. here on that. MisterComputerMan who started the thread has the gassers and he can share his experiences. I do know he can replace his engines twice for the cost of one of mine!! Just the way it is. I find that I can cruise at 22 knots and burn around 22-24 gph depending on conditions but the hull handles everything the bay can muster up to 2' chop at that speed with no issues. Also can run the boat sitting, on the bolster, and still miss all the crab pots in the bay.

Enjoy the search and sorry for my long winded response...

 

[RollerCoastr]

MisterComputerMan who started the thread has the gassers and he can share his experiences. I do know he can replace his engines twice for the cost of one of mine!! Just the way it is.

He's a good guy, I'm sure, but we performed a coux and ousted MisterComputerMan as ambassador of big gasser 'Dancers long ago. He cruised around with the wrong props, getting horrible economy and blowing engines while others among us have decades of reliable service and performance with maintenance costs that = pocket change.

IIRC, he finally got the issues resolved, but those were the Gary days and the diesel crowd was relentless about his 410 Slugdancer.

 

[JVM225]

Thanks for the info guys. I just ordered it from Flounder Pounder. I only need a few inches of the stuff but had to order 6 feet of it to meet their minimum order requirement. No big deal because I have a section on the starboard side that although intact, it is getting a little gummy and leaves a black mark on anything that rubs against it so I’ll swap that out too.

 

[TitanTn]

FYI that material is EPDM closed cell foam rubber. This is the same material except with an adhesive back and orders of magnitude cheaper https://www.mcmaster.com/#rubber/=19w4hqa. I used this on my 400DA windshield; installed three years ago and still looks (and is) OEM. Wet the material with a soap and water solution and the adhesive will not stick to anything during installation. Make sure to cut long and compress into the groove as all foam rubber products will shrink over time.

This is what I'll be doing when it's my time to replace that strip. Great info - thanks.

 

[pcarp]

Thanks for the info guys. I just ordered it from Flounder Pounder. I only need a few inches of the stuff but had to order 6 feet of it to meet their minimum order requirement. No big deal because I have a section on the starboard side that although intact, it is getting a little gummy and leaves a black mark on anything that rubs against it so I’ll swap that out too.

Hi
Quick detail question for you.
What was the part number you used at Flounder Pounder?
Thanks

 

[mistercomputerman]

He's a good guy, I'm sure, but we performed a coux and ousted MisterComputerMan as ambassador of big gasser 'Dancers long ago. He cruised around with the wrong props, getting horrible economy and blowing engines while others among us have decades of reliable service and performance with maintenance costs that = pocket change.

IIRC, he finally got the issues resolved, but those were the Gary days and the diesel crowd was relentless about his 410 Slugdancer.

Why are you all talking bad about me?

 

[RollerCoastr]

Gary sent me a PM and said, "hey, talk some smack about MCM's boat for me, will ya?

Nothing personal - I promise.