410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

Question for the late 90's 400 guys out there:

How the heck do you get to the front end of the generator? I thought the ER on the 400 was an absolute dream until my generator stopped producing AC power (I believe/hope it to be the capacitor). Is there some vodoo trick to get into this area or is it as obscene as it looks?

Yeah, that's one of the exceptions to ease-of-access in a gasser 400DA. I think the back-end is even worse. Have you replaced your generator oil filter yet? Ugh. Fortunately, the genny impeller is easy in the gassers. Almost ideal.

Are your needles moving at all when you switch to gen power? If so, have you tried to apply a steady load like the water heater?
 
Yeah, that's one of the exceptions to ease-of-access in a gasser 400DA. I think the back-end is even worse. Have you replaced your generator oil filter yet? Ugh. Fortunately, the genny impeller is easy in the gassers. Almost ideal.

Are your needles moving at all when you switch to gen power? If so, have you tried to apply a steady load like the water heater?

Nope...first oil change is coming up in a week or two :) Looks like I will have to cut a hole in the water heater to get to the oil filter? ha.

I've got zero volts on either side of the AC panel when on generator power. Happened suddenly, no drop in voltage, just zero. Happened between runs - not during. I've cycled (many times) the breaker on the generator. Unless there is a hidden breaker somewhere I'm assuming it's internal to the gen at this point.

I'm going check voltage at the breaker tonight but when I pulled the cover off the switch box last night it looked....weird. Like the prior owner may have bypassed the breaker. There is a beefy jumper across the top 2 terminals on the breaker and nothing connected to the bottom two. I can't see how the breaker is doing anything in its current configuration but I'm not an electrician. I first want to restore the generator to functional and then investigate this breaker situation.

I'm hoping it's the cap and not something more serious. And if the breaker is bad I suspect I can DIY replace that as well.
 
Question for the late 90's 400 guys out there:

How the heck do you get to the front end of the generator? I thought the ER on the 400 was an absolute dream until my generator stopped producing AC power (I believe/hope it to be the capacitor). Is there some vodoo trick to get into this area or is it as obscene as it looks?

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Not sure if the bilge is the same layout as on my 410 with Cats. Mine is on the starboard side, pretty far aft.
Best way to get at things like the impeller on my genny is to remove the starboard exhaust.
 
Nope...first oil change is coming up in a week or two :) Looks like I will have to cut a hole in the water heater to get to the oil filter? ha.

I've got zero volts on either side of the AC panel when on generator power. Happened suddenly, no drop in voltage, just zero. Happened between runs - not during. I've cycled (many times) the breaker on the generator. Unless there is a hidden breaker somewhere I'm assuming it's internal to the gen at this point.

I'm going check voltage at the breaker tonight but when I pulled the cover off the switch box last night it looked....weird. Like the prior owner may have bypassed the breaker. There is a beefy jumper across the top 2 terminals on the breaker and nothing connected to the bottom two. I can't see how the breaker is doing anything in its current configuration but I'm not an electrician. I first want to restore the generator to functional and then investigate this breaker situation.

I'm hoping it's the cap and not something more serious. And if the breaker is bad I suspect I can DIY replace that as well.

Good news/bad news update on my generator. Started her up on Saturday just for kicks and wouldn't you know it....I had voltage. Ran it for an hour without issue. The fact that the only thing I did was to inspect the wiring in the breaker box leads me to believe something is still amiss in there.

Might be a spring 2019 project at this point. It's getting COLD out there....
 
I can get to the filters and impellers OK, if OK means hanging upside down into the bilge. But anything more than that is a Bitch!!! I'm considering pulling mine out to do some more extensive MX on mine. That likely means removing some exaust hoseds/pipes.
 
Good news/bad news update on my generator. Started her up on Saturday just for kicks and wouldn't you know it....I had voltage. Ran it for an hour without issue. The fact that the only thing I did was to inspect the wiring in the breaker box leads me to believe something is still amiss in there.

Might be a spring 2019 project at this point. It's getting COLD out there....


I just replaced all my DC breakers. I removed the DC breaker panel in the cockpit and found some of the breakers were corroded and seemingly damaged from moisture/water. There is some wiring back there for the genny and after I put my new breakers in I made a moisture/water barrier over the top of them as I found some water was coming down the radar arch from somewhere. I plan to recaulk everything once I take off the canvas and maybe will find where it is coming from, but having a water barrier over the breakers/wiring is a good idea anyway.
 
Hi all, I sold my 370DA, and I am looking for a freshwater 400/410 with Diesels, please let me know if you know of any for sale or considering selling your...
 
Can any of you gasser owners let me know whether or not you've got two (2) fuel water separators per engine? While changing my oil this weekend I noticed I have two filters per side, one on the motor and another remote on the bulkhead. My 340 only had one per side, directly on the motors.

I wonder if the double filter is OEM or if I've got some kind of aftermarket setup. The filters are identical in both locations.

Thanks!
 
Hi all, I sold my 370DA, and I am looking for a freshwater 400/410 with Diesels, please let me know if you know of any for sale or considering selling your...
I have a 1997 400da , fresh water and under cover for most of its life. Great condition, asking 89k
 
Captains,

I have a 2001 410da and I want to change to all Chain Rhode, with maybe 50’ of line tied to the anchor locker, in case I need more scope or need to cut the anchor free. I am thinking 200’ of 5/16th, g4 galvanized chain and 50’ of anchor line. I want to make sure I do not have issues with the chain piling up too high in the anchor locker, causing issues retrieving the anchor. I know many of you have gone to all chain rhode. Appreciate some guidance on how much chain and line would fit nicelely in the anchor locker. My concern is, moving anchor line out of the way is a lot easier than chain, so I want to make sure there is plenty of room to hold 50’ of line and 200’ of chain.

Thanks,

Jeff
 
Captains,

I have a 2001 410da and I want to change to all Chain Rhode, with maybe 50’ of line tied to the anchor locker, in case I need more scope or need to cut the anchor free. I am thinking 200’ of 5/16th, g4 galvanized chain and 50’ of anchor line. I want to make sure I do not have issues with the chain piling up too high in the anchor locker, causing issues retrieving the anchor. I know many of you have gone to all chain rhode. Appreciate some guidance on how much chain and line would fit nicelely in the anchor locker. My concern is, moving anchor line out of the way is a lot easier than chain, so I want to make sure there is plenty of room to hold 50’ of line and 200’ of chain.

Thanks,

Jeff
200' of chain will stow nicely in the chain locker - no issues. For the rope - it would probably be best to coil and stow on a hook or loop up high in the locker so it will not rot below the chain. Regarding the connection of the rope to the chain - how would that knot to pass through the windlass? Why not simply have another 50' of chain?
 
While you can splice the chain to rode and it will go through the windlass I do agree with ttmott and would simply go with 250ft of chain. You will need a shackel to connect or to the anchor locker and a swivel or shackel at the anchor itself. Mantus makes a nice one. Also, west Marine has 30% off anchor chain right now.
 
My original splice went through the windlass without issue, but it eventually failed. The new splice often needs help getting through, particularly when retrieving.

Reason for rope? It has give, so it's a built-in snubber effect. It's also much more quiet. I hate hearing chain clanging.
 
My original splice went through the windlass without issue, but it eventually failed. The new splice often needs help getting through, particularly when retrieving.

Reason for rope? It has give, so it's a built-in snubber effect. It's also much more quiet. I hate hearing chain clanging.
That is why a snubber / bridle is useful besides the critical need to remove load from the windlass. In this case to be at the rope all of the chain would need to be deployed (200 feet). Chain due to it's weight and if correctly scoped acts like a snubber; however, if rope is desired as a shock absorber then it needs to be on the anchor end.
 
I was just speaking in general terms, why rope has its place as rode. Chain bridles are a PITA. I've spent many nights in a protected anchorage, with just enough movement to make the chain rattle, but not enough to justify rigging a bridle. Wrapping the chain in a section of split hose is a simpler solution, but one that's not necessary with rope rode.

The criticality of removing the load from the windlass is something I'd be willing to debate. It's a best-practice for sure, but when I enter an anchorage it's about item #17 on the list of things people do incorrectly while anchoring.

Yes, the weight of chain acts as a snubber in mild conditions, which is also when it's least necessary. It's not a reliable snubber however - it can and will snap violently in certain conditions.

I assume you mentioned rope at the anchor end anecdotally, as doing so would defeat the largest benefit of chain. (weighing down the anchor)
 
Captains,

I have a 2001 410da and I want to change to all Chain Rhode, with maybe 50’ of line tied to the anchor locker, in case I need more scope or need to cut the anchor free. I am thinking 200’ of 5/16th, g4 galvanized chain and 50’ of anchor line. I want to make sure I do not have issues with the chain piling up too high in the anchor locker, causing issues retrieving the anchor. I know many of you have gone to all chain rhode. Appreciate some guidance on how much chain and line would fit nicelely in the anchor locker. My concern is, moving anchor line out of the way is a lot easier than chain, so I want to make sure there is plenty of room to hold 50’ of line and 200’ of chain.

Thanks,

Jeff

Jeff, I’ve got a 200’ all chain rode and it piles nicely in the anchor locker with room to spare. I could easily fit 50’ of rope in there with it.
Honestly though, if you are replacing the whole thing you may want to just go with 250’ of chain instead of a rope/chain combo?
I think it would fit nicely!
 

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