420/44 DB Owners Club

[h_gerry]

Can anyone enlighten me as to the best way to flush/descale the AC cooling lines. I don’t have access to the port side of the boat due to our slip setup. Would like to rig up a loop to run a descaling solution. Since we have two discharge lines curious where to feed and return the solution.

What I have done is to run Barnacle Buster into the lines, shut the pump off and let it sit overnight. After flushing it the next day it seems to do the trick. Not as complete as creating the loop, but it seems to work well enough.

 

[Irie308]

Feed after your pump and tee the two discharge (return) lines together to complete the loop. Access them at the side discharge fittings from inside if possible without too much dissasembly if not at the units themselves.

What I have done is to run Barnacle Buster into the lines, shut the pump off and let it sit overnight. After flushing it the next day it seems to do the trick. Not as complete as creating the loop, but it seems to work well enough.

Was thinking of this as well. Thanks Harold.

 

[Carpediem44DB]

Can anyone enlighten me as to the best way to flush/descale the AC cooling lines. I don’t have access to the port side of the boat due to our slip setup. Would like to rig up a loop to run a descaling solution. Since we have two discharge lines curious where to feed and return the solution.

I cut my aft overboard line above the water heater and installed a quick disconnect coupler that I detach and run a short length of hose from to my pump bucket. For the forward AC unit I stretch a length of hose from the out put to my bucket and just let the entire system circulate. I think I will actually flush my system this weekend and will post pics of my set up. It’s been a while so it’s time.
Carpe Diem

 

[Irie308]

Hi All, looking for recommendations on replacement anchor for our 04 DB. Current anchor is bent and have been meaning to replace for a while. Don't want to have to make any mods to have new anchor fit. Also ok with with the exact stock anchor for our model.

 

[Alex F]

Hi All, looking for recommendations on replacement anchor for our 04 DB. Current anchor is bent and have been meaning to replace for a while. Don't want to have to make any mods to have new anchor fit. Also ok with with the exact stock anchor for our model.

Dean,
I'd say it all depends on your budget. If I was replacing mine, I'd look into "new generation" anchors (Ultra, Rocna, Mantus, etc.). SS version will always cost quite a bit, while galvanized are much more affordable.

Staying on more conservative budget, yeah, the stock DELTA 35 is good all-around anchor, but I'd go at least one size larger. Don't forget that some boat builders use anchor sizing to "just make it" on the measurements table. So, in a lot of cases you're on the lower end of that scale, making the anchors undersized for a vessel. IMO, you need something in the range of 40-50lbs. I haven't checked, but if there's a DELTA/LEWMAR 45lb, I'd go for it, instead of stock 35lb.

 

[h_gerry]

Hi All, looking for recommendations on replacement anchor for our 04 DB. Current anchor is bent and have been meaning to replace for a while. Don't want to have to make any mods to have new anchor fit. Also ok with with the exact stock anchor for our model.

Dean,
I'd say it all depends on your budget. If I was replacing mine, I'd look into "new generation" anchors (Ultra, Rocna, Mantus, etc.). SS version will always cost quite a bit, while galvanized are much more affordable.

Staying on more conservative budget, yeah, the stock DELTA 35 is good all-around anchor, but I'd go at least one size larger. Don't forget that some boat builders use anchor sizing to "just make it" on the measurements table. So, in a lot of cases you're on the lower end of that scale, making the anchors undersized for a vessel. IMO, you need something in the range of 40-50lbs. I haven't checked, but if there's a DELTA/LEWMAR 45lb, I'd go for it, instead of stock 35lb.

Dean,
Maybe look at this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/S-S-Stainl...159283?hash=item1aa37f0133:g:8ecAAOSwTyhfYhza

 

[ZZ13]

Dean,
I'd say it all depends on your budget. If I was replacing mine, I'd look into "new generation" anchors (Ultra, Rocna, Mantus, etc.). SS version will always cost quite a bit, while galvanized are much more affordable.

Staying on more conservative budget, yeah, the stock DELTA 35 is good all-around anchor, but I'd go at least one size larger. Don't forget that some boat builders use anchor sizing to "just make it" on the measurements table. So, in a lot of cases you're on the lower end of that scale, making the anchors undersized for a vessel. IMO, you need something in the range of 40-50lbs. I haven't checked, but if there's a DELTA/LEWMAR 45lb, I'd go for it, instead of stock 35lb.

Did Sea Ray drop the weight of the factory anchor with the 420DB? My '01 400DB stock anchor is a 44 lb Delta plow. I keep thinking I should buy a Rocna 25 (55 lb) because all my buddies tell me I have to. But my Delta plow has been just great in all sorts of weather conditions.

 

[Irie308]

Dean,
Maybe look at this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/S-S-Stainl...159283?hash=item1aa37f0133:g:8ecAAOSwTyhfYhza

Spend my money why don't you...

 

[Alex F]

Did Sea Ray drop the weight of the factory anchor with the 420DB? My '01 400DB stock anchor is a 44 lb Delta plow. I keep thinking I should buy a Rocna 25 (55 lb) because all my buddies tell me I have to. But my Delta plow has been just great in all sorts of weather conditions.

From my parts manual:

22 ANCHOR, 35LB GALV PLOW

Mine was replaced by PO to SS version, but he still went with 35LBs. I'm curious what your parts manual call for.

 

[ZZ13]

From my parts manual:

22 ANCHOR, 35LB GALV PLOW

Mine was replaced by PO to SS version, but he still went with 35LBs. I'm curious what your parts manual call for.

Alex, here is a picture of my parts manual.

 

[doozie]

I have the one off my 46, Free, just need to figure out shipping?

 

[Irie308]

So spec'ed out a 44lb delta galvanized based on budget. I see that the 55lb is slightly more but not much. Curious if i should look at the 55lb instead. Concern is would i have have trouble fitting a 55 delta in the anchor roller?

 

[craigswardmtb]

I really like my Rocna 25. After dragging on Deltas in a few different anchorages I switched to a Rocna 20 on my 360 and now the 25 on my 420. We put 3 boats on it without a worry. We have done over a month under anchor throughout this summer in all kinds of conditions and it just buries and holds. The 130' of chain helps too. Defender typically has stock.

 

[h_gerry]

Spend my money why don't you...

It's better than spending mine
(more fun too )

 

[Jeff Carrick]

OK so here I go again. I’m not sure if any of you remember I asked all 420 and 44 owners if they had any issues with water coming up their cockpit drains while underway? Well I got a chance to get down in the bilge while underway as the admiral was driving and even though I fixed my water coming up the drain issue with some shut off valves my bilge alarms repeatedly we’re going off. After further investigation I realized that water was being pushed in through the bilge overboard holes and being forced into the bilges, this is evidently the cause of the overboard holes being lower than the waterline while underway. Is anyone else having this issue or has SeaRay addressed it in past posts? Are those overboard holes supposed to have scuppers to prevent water from going in versus coming out?

 

[Irie308]

OK so here I go again. I’m not sure if any of you remember I asked all 420 and 44 owners if they had any issues with water coming up their cockpit drains while underway? Well I got a chance to get down in the bilge while underway as the admiral was driving and even though I fixed my water coming up the drain issue with some shut off valves my bilge alarms repeatedly we’re going off. After further investigation I realized that water was being pushed in through the bilge overboard holes and being forced into the bilges, this is evidently the cause of the overboard holes being lower than the waterline while underway. Is anyone else having this issue or has SeaRay addressed it in past posts? Are those overboard holes supposed to have scuppers to prevent water from going in versus coming out?

Are you referring to the bilge pump discharge lines? They should have check valves which prevent back flow.

 

[Tomco]

Hi All, looking for recommendations on replacement anchor for our 04 DB. Current anchor is bent and have been meaning to replace for a while. Don't want to have to make any mods to have new anchor fit. Also ok with with the exact stock anchor for our model.

We have a 22kg (48.5lbs) Bruce. It works quite well (first time I've had a Bruce anchor), if I had to replace it I would do so with a Ronca or Mantus. I have a strong preference for a heavier anchor (since we overnight a lot), just keep in mind any constraints the windlass might have - ours (windlass) is stock and works just fine. In fact, we just got back from a couple weeks and pulled this baby up one morning:

 

[Jeff Carrick]

Are you referring to the bilge pump discharge lines? They should have check valves which prevent back flow.

Yes and Ok. So I guess either I do’t or they are failing. Any idea where they would be?

 

[Tomco]

Hi Tom,
I obtained this drawing when I was replacing the sanitation lines. I believe the cavity the sanitation line PVC pipes run through is the same one you are talking about (under the fuel tanks). This is another space that has been known to accumulate water. There is more information and another drawing here http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/420-44-db-owners-club.39333/page-96#post-1126490 about instructions Sea Ray has provided to drill a hole in the aft of the bulkhead of this cavity to allow water to drain.

i haven't done this yet but I don't have any signs of water coming from those locations at this time...

View attachment 90824

Just a follow up on this topic. Decided not to drill a hole in the end of this cavity as was indicated, for a couple of reasons. One is just the physical constraints to get to this area, drill a hole, and seal the exposed wood, second is that I didn't want an open hole to a large cavity that could fill with water and accelerate a bad situation (i.e. lots of water in the ER) by flooding what would normally be a sealed area.

Instead I added an inspection hatch on the top, just in front of the hot water heater - easy to put in and easy to inspect. Good news was that this area/cavity was bone dry ... not that I hoped water would be present but it would have helped explain the starboard list!

If you go this route, just be careful about moving the hatch any closer to the HWT - there is a fiberglass tube that the waste hose from the master head runs thru which is located between the edge of where I have the hatch and the HWT. Cutting into it would probably be considered a bad day!

 

[BJD]

We are wrapping up our first season on our '04 420 DB and chasing down a minor water gremlin. Water enters through the center bottom of the front window zipper on the bridge during a good rain or while washing. The zipper has an underbite relative to the canvas border below it, so the water doesn't run off like it should. A little mildew on the canvas roping below the zipper in that spot suggests this is not a new issue.

Since we're not the only ones to encounter this, I tried the cheap tricks gleaned from CSR (zipper lube-still leaks, positioning zippers at the top of the smile-still leaks). Having a canvas person sew an external flap to cover the zipper seam might do the trick. The plexiglass pane is a bit scratched but serviceable, so we'd have to decide if we want to replace that piece altogether and incorporate a flap while we're at it, or live with the leak like the PO did. I’m ok with the latter IF the water isn’t a problem. After all, some people drive these boats topless, so I'm hoping the opening isn't a dead-end road for unwanted water to fester...

The first photo shows a deep gutter aft to the window that probably collects most of the runoff from the leak. This is the area I’m concerned with... I’m less worried about the water that tracks along the surface to either side of this large gutter into the caulked recesses. This stuff runs down the inside walls (2nd pic) where it follows the usual path to the back of the bridge where the corners have drain cutouts for this purpose (3rd pic).

Do others have same deep recess directly in front of the helm, and if so, do you have an idea where water goes when it enters there? Caulk or a simple gutter insert seem like obvious solutions, but is that necessary if the drain path is kosher? Our survey did reveal a mild moisture elevation at the base of the helm, and I wonder if this could be the source?